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How bleed the deuce brakes

SoldierwithaM109A3

SoldierwithaM109A3

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Is there anyone in the seaside area that has one of these ?

I got mine but my brakes failed the peddle is hard to pull back up the master cylinder is not coming back out . I bought a new one . But i want to make sure I am doing this right

someone pulled out in front of me and my wrists snapped holding the wheel so there in braces at time for healing this accident was with my car not my deuce.

But I need to get this moving again its temp parked where a friend lives and he Is moving. So I want to make sure, I want to do it the most easy way as I can

For No one knows of these and I am disabled for the time being. Any help would be appreciated. what would be the best way also to drain all the fluid from the back or front ?

thank you
 
kendelrio

kendelrio

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SoldierwithaM109A3 said:
What would be the best way also to drain all the fluid from the back or front ?

thank you
Click to expand...
I wouldn't bleed them completely dry... thats asking for trouble.

Personally I would use the aforementioned bleeders and flush each cylinder until I got new fluid. That way you're for sure flushing any moisture/debris out of the system.
 
SoldierwithaM109A3

SoldierwithaM109A3

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ah thx i am replacing the brake master cylinder its new i don't want to to have fluid coming out all over . would i just bleed it enough to replace the cylinder ?
ah a link up top thank you as well .
 
kendelrio

kendelrio

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SoldierwithaM109A3 said:
ah thx i am replacing the brake master cylinder its new i don't want to to have fluid coming out all over . would i just bleed it enough to replace the cylinder ?
ah a link up top thank you as well .
Click to expand...
If you're replacing the cylinder, you'll need to empty it and once you get it low enough to change, I would. I wouldn't bleed the entire system dry.
 
INFChief

INFChief

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SoldierwithaM109A3 said:
Is there anyone in the seaside area that has one of these ?

I got mine but my brakes failed the peddle is hard to pull back up the master cylinder is not coming back out . I bought a new one . But i want to make sure I am doing this right

someone pulled out in front of me and my wrists snapped holding the wheel so there in braces at time for healing this accident was with my car not my deuce.

But I need to get this moving again its temp parked where a friend lives and he Is moving. So I want to make sure, I want to do it the most easy way as I can

For No one knows of these and I am disabled for the time being. Any help would be appreciated. what would be the best way also to drain all the fluid from the back or front ?

thank you
Click to expand...
After you install the master cylinder adjust the actuator rod so that the brake pedal has about 1/4” of “free travel”. The 1/4” is measured with the brake pedal pulled up and then slowly push it down by hand. Adjust the actuator rod linkage to get the 1/4”.
Be sure the return spring is good and the linkage does not bind.

An “A3” is a newer model then I worked on but the A1 & A2’s had a bleeder on the master cylinder. If my memory is remotely intact, there was a bleeder on the hydrovac unit too. You really need a helper to bleed these unless you have a bleeder ball.
Don’t RAPIDLY or VIGOROUS pump up the brakes before you bleed them. All that does is agitate the brake fluid and create tiny air bubbles throughout the system.

After bleeding the MC & hydrovac (check & refill fluid) start bleeding at the farthest wheel from the MC and then move to the next farthest, and so on.

Have you checked the brake shoe adjustment? On the deuces I remember the bottom measurement was 0.010 thousands feeler gauge and top was 0.020.
The lower anchor bolts were often frozen and we had to pull brake drums and shoes to get them out and cleaned up.

Way too many hammer mechanics budgeted up the flat wrench adjusting surface on the eccentric cam bolts making it nearly impossible to get a wrench on the end.

there were also felt washers on these adjustment bolts on the inside (backing plate) and the felt washers had a thin steel cup over them. The “clips” to hold the bottom of the brake shoe to the eccentric adjustment bolts were often beat to heck from being reused to many times or from some careless schmuck.

After all this rambling won’t I feel foolish if the A3’s are totally different! Lol
 
ldmack3

ldmack3

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kendelrio said:
I wouldn't bleed them completely dry... thats asking for trouble.

Personally I would use the aforementioned bleeders and flush each cylinder until I got new fluid. That way you're for sure flushing any moisture/debris out of the system.
Click to expand...
I'm replacing my axel hard lines and MC so obviously they will be dry. What kind of issues are likely to occur from completely draining them?
 
Floridianson

Floridianson

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Myself when I had a Deuce and did the brake adjustment I would take off the nuts on the lower adjuster. Then coat the threads of the stud with never size and put the nuts back on. This can be done anytime with everything together ( wheel - drum on, brakes assembled ) or if you have everything disassembled.
Also I tried the feeler gage thing and just switched to drag feel thing because the drum might be out of round just a bit.
 
Mullaney

Mullaney

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ldmack3 said:
I'm replacing my axel hard lines and MC so obviously they will be dry. What kind of issues are likely to occur from completely draining them?
Click to expand...
.
It shouldn't be a problem. Having a brake bleeder will make your life much better. You will want to "pre-bleed" the Master before injecting air into the system, then hook that bad boy to the brake lines. I'm sure you already know that you want to go out to the bleeder screw as far away from the MC as possible and run fluid until the bubbles stop. Working toward the front of the truck hit the other bleeder screws and hopefully you will be ready to ride!
 
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