If you are running only a very light 12V load drawing only a few amps,then a tap off the dogbone would probably be OK. If you are running a moderate load, like a radio, a 24V-12V converter should work fine. If you are running a significant 12V load requiring a lot of 12V power,than a 24V equalizer would be in order if you can afford the bucks and run the truck enough to keep the batteries equalized. The alternative would be to add a separate 12V alternator and battery for your 12V load.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
How can I add a 12 v Alternator?
- Thread starter reblawyer
- Start date
ranchand
New member
- 140
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Spokane, WA
I am not an expert so I may be wrong in saying this but common sense tells me that if the batteries are run in series then you would be pulling power equally from both batteries, just like anything else that is pulling power from the system. The only difference is that you will be "wasting" off half the voltage through the regulator. Do we have any electrical engineers handy who can confirm or disprove my theory?
ranchand
New member
- 140
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Spokane, WA
Sorry, I didnt realize this thread has been asleep so long but I hope we can wake it up
pjpiche1
New member
- 131
- 1
- 0
- Location
- bostwick, GA.
There is a 12 volt alternator conversion kit in the classifieds. It is a plug and play unit.
Keith_J
Well-known member
- 3,657
- 1,323
- 113
- Location
- Schertz TX
A 12 volt converter that will drive 20 amperes at 12 volts off the 24 volt system is available from Marlin P. Jones for $130. Just wiring, no brackets, belts or worries. MPJA - Power Supply, Power Supplies, Security Cameras, LCD, Fans, Etc. if you need it.
No need for a battery (~$50) or alternator.
No need for a battery (~$50) or alternator.
tm america
Active member
- 2,600
- 24
- 38
- Location
- merrillville in
pulling 12 volts off of one battery will work . but when it makes the front battery over charge and ruins it then kills the alt to .dont say i didnt tell you so i killed two sets of batteries doing that .it's not worth it inverters are way cheaper than 6tls and deuce alts,you can get a dual voltage alt from teds truck and stuff for 250 brand new or just add a separate 12 alt and another battery.problem solved it you do it the right way it only costs you one time and doesnt leave you with a big tow bill like taking power off the the one batttery will. 2 6tl batteries and a alt for the deuce=500.a 12 alt and one 12 volt battery=150 you do the math make you own mind up .i know what i am doing
- 9,580
- 218
- 63
- Location
- Dickson,TN
No, you're not "wasting" any voltage when you pull off of one battery. While the complete system is 24v if you pull off of one battery only you've only got 12v. You are in a sense splitting the system when you pull off of one battery. Nothing is wasted but because the charging system is connected to both batteries in series it throws the system out of balance.
In the normal 24v system if you draw the voltage down to say 20v, The 24v charging system will send 2v to each battery. When you pull off of one battery and decrease that battery by 4v and the other battery is still fully charged it will still send 4v to both batteries. In the end you will end up with one battery having 10v and the other having 14v. It still equals 24v but the batteries aren't changed to the same level.
I know that's an oversimplification (boy that's a big word) of how the system works but that's the basic principle of it.
Keith_J
Well-known member
- 3,657
- 1,323
- 113
- Location
- Schertz TX
What is wrong with the converters? You have a perfectly fine 60 amp alternator, that is 1.7 kW of power and you only have a 200 Watt hotel load with full lights, 250 Watts at high beam.
ranchand
New member
- 140
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Spokane, WA
Ok I misunderstood abh3s original idea oh a breaker as being a regulator. What I guess my ultimate question is and what I would like to do would be to add another battery that would be seperated by a 12v voltage regulator. Can this be done? Will it charge correctly? Would there be any problems using the same ground as the 24v system? Can the alternater keep up? Does anyone know of a source for the voltage regulator or can you just use one from any older car?
Keith_J
Well-known member
- 3,657
- 1,323
- 113
- Location
- Schertz TX
Just get a battery isolator which can take a 28 volt input. Hook all your 12 volt loads to the 3rd battery which is charged by the isolator.
6-50 VDC Sure Power Battery Isolator
6-50 VDC Sure Power Battery Isolator
thanks derby
ranchand
New member
- 140
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Spokane, WA
I realy dont think i need that much power avengeusa but i may be interested in the mounting bracket you use as i am looking at installing a hydraulic clutch pump. Sorry about the giant sentence. BTW nice kit if i were building a service vehicle it would be totally worth it.
Also would the isolator be necessary u werent drawing a ton of power, just running a few lights etc? Seems like u would just need to drop the voltage down to charge 12v.
Also would the isolator be necessary u werent drawing a ton of power, just running a few lights etc? Seems like u would just need to drop the voltage down to charge 12v.
- 9,580
- 218
- 63
- Location
- Dickson,TN
The easiest way to run 12v lights off of 24v is to just run a 24v wire to two 12v lights wired in series. In other words connect the 24v wire to the positive wire on the first light. Take the ground wire comming out of the first light and connect it to the positive wire of the second light. Take the ground wire from the second light and ground it to the frame. 12v lights will work fine on 24v when wired this way
ranchand
New member
- 140
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Spokane, WA
Well lights, cell phone charger, disco ball, seat heater, the possibilities are endless.............
MasterChief
New member
- 59
- 0
- 0
- Location
- brownfield Maine
Hi. I am new to "forums and new to civiliam applications of MVs.
I would appreciate any help or comments.
On an M-35A2: Want to run 12v accessories - I put them into 2 catagories
High draw such as Aux lights in bed , fog lights and 12vdc to 120vac converter.
And Low Draw for scanner, radio etc.
For trailers I will just switch bulbs - I love simple. I know how to jump start "to and "from" 12v vehicles.
I want to keep this as simple as possible as I adhere to "Murphy's Law".
Thanks for help!
I would appreciate any help or comments.
On an M-35A2: Want to run 12v accessories - I put them into 2 catagories
High draw such as Aux lights in bed , fog lights and 12vdc to 120vac converter.
And Low Draw for scanner, radio etc.
For trailers I will just switch bulbs - I love simple. I know how to jump start "to and "from" 12v vehicles.
I want to keep this as simple as possible as I adhere to "Murphy's Law".
Thanks for help!
MasterChief
New member
- 59
- 0
- 0
- Location
- brownfield Maine
Love the simplicity. But - I think if you were to loose one light - the other would go out also (true?). As a slave to Murphy's Law, I have some trouble with this solution. Please NO Offence meant to your simple solution.
- 14,261
- 1,759
- 113
- Location
- Dayton, OH
TM America was selling the brackets and you supply the 24v and 12v alternators.