How do I get a 6BT Cummins started after it has been sitting for a while?

[Lonesome715]

How do I get the electronic valve to work if that is the problem? Also, is it something I can just eleminate?

 

[WillWagner]

You can take the wire off and run a test lead to it directly from the battery. To shut it off, remove the wire from the battery.

 

[Oasis-3]

Go onto Turbo Diesel Register.com and look under first gen trucks they have so much info it will make your head spin.

 

[Lonesome715]

So running the lead will open it? The removing it will close, right?

Thanks for the heads up, I will check them out.

 

[WillWagner]

Yes, the FSOV is a normally closed solenoid. There is a plunger and spring inside it that when energized by the ignition switch, pulls the plunger up letting fuel by. Take power away and the plunger falls and closes the port.

 

[Lonesome715]

So I guess that is something that has to stay on the truck. If I take it off I will not have a way to shut the engine off.

 

[Lonesome715]

This is what I am looking at now. There does not appear to be any fuel getting through the IP. Also, what I thought was new fuel in the injector lines is actually old fuel. New fuel is getting to the pump, but from there I do not know what is happening. The electrical connector right above the fuel filter is broke. I use some jumper wires and did not get a difference.

 

[Floridianson]

Was this machine 12 or 24 volts? Did you test the wires with a test light.
When I am not certain of the polarty I will hook the test light clip to pos. and check to see what wires show neg. If the light lights then its' the ground and if not then I would assume it's a pos. When powering up a solenoid it should be clicking or at least you should feel it clicking if not you might assume that it is bad. Can you remove it without much problem and bench test it to make shure it is working. I kinda lost here to is the motor still in the tug. Are you shure there is no outher fuel line lock in the system. Is the fuel line clear or can you blow air back into the tank or suck fuel out?

 

[Lonesome715]

It is a stock 12 volt system. The fuel is getting to the pump but I do nto see any other valve anywhere.

 

[mudguppy]

the shut off solenoid should be the only one in the system.

on the 2nd gen dodges, the 'on' circuit holds the solenoid open but the 'start' circuit actually pulls the solenoid open. so on a 2nd gen, you'd have to bump the key to 'start' to see if the solenoid pulls open as far as it should (it's external to the IP, not integral like yours).

i'm not sure if you can by-pass this solenoid by some mechanical means. i did read (in that thread from TDG) that the VW diesels use the same IP and the same solenoid. therefore, if you wanted to replace, apparently the VW one is like 1/4 of the price of the dodge app.

 

[Lonesome715]

Where is the solenoid located?

 

[mudguppy]

from the pics i saw, it's the little black thing on the rear of the IP near the fuel inlet that should have 2 (or more?) wires going to it.

 

[Lonesome715]

Then what is the thing just above the fuel filter. It has a broken connector.

 

[WillWagner]

It is item number 240.

If you can't see the image, try here...

Bosch VE Distributor Injection Pump - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

Scroll down a few frames

 

[WillWagner]

Then what is the thing just above the fuel filter. It has a broken connector.

It might be the intake temp sensor for the KSB valve. Can't make it out too well, but that engine has limited electronics on it. The only electrical thing that won't let it start is the shut off sol. You said something about rusty fuel in the filter in a prior post, IF the rust/rust causing contaminent got past the filter, you could have a damaged pump.
Did you use a VOM to see if the vehicle is sending voltage to the FSOV?

 

[Floridianson]

Found this pic of fuel solenoid. They are calling it a magnet valve.

 

[Lonesome715]

Thanks for the break downs thoae are a big help in understanding hwo these parts work.

I do nto have a meter to check the selonoid.

 

[Warthog]

Thanks for the break downs thoae are a big help in understanding hwo these parts work.

I do nto have a meter to check the selonoid.

Every good Steelsoldier should have the following in thier toolbox

1) Voltmeter
2) Battery Charger
3) Battery Load Tester

 

[patracy]

I've never had one fail on me personally. But to test the windings, you need a multimeter to check for an open circuit. I suppose you could also use a test light to ensure you have ground, but that's not an accurate means.

If you are ballsy, you could remove the plunger and spring from the valve. You would then have open flow to the IP. But no means to shut the engine down other than stalling it out, or using a flat board over the turbo inlet to "suffocate" the engine into stopping.

The way I would try this is only if you're wanting to verify fuel flow to the injectors from the IP. This would be done only with ALL the injector lines loose from the injectors to verify fuel flow.

 

[Floridianson]

One would think if it's easy to pull out then take it out and crank it over and fuel should come out. Once out the magnet valve could be watched and see if it is retracting when given power. That would be 12v I am assuming.