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How do you make a LMTV NOT suck in the snow?

ramdough

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You can Always watch eBay for these. I picked up two complete sets enough for 2 axles for 2500 shipped.


That looks neat, but I find it hard to believe they would do much if you were in deep snow or mud. Also if you hit the brake, they might end up behind the tire doing nothing. An advantage to real mining style chains is you can use them in mud.


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Awesomeness

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That looks neat, but I find it hard to believe they would do much if you were in deep snow or mud. Also if you hit the brake, they might end up behind the tire doing nothing. An advantage to real mining style chains is you can use them in mud.


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You don't need them in deep snow/mud... the tires will do just fine by themselves there. The chains are for slick, wet, icy, or compacted roads.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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That looks neat, but I find it hard to believe they would do much if you were in deep snow or mud. Also if you hit the brake, they might end up behind the tire doing nothing. An advantage to real mining style chains is you can use them in mud.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
They are for the worst traction environments for your tires, iced Over and those with slush
 

TomTime

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You can Always watch eBay for these. I picked up two complete sets enough for 2 axles for 2500 shipped.


I’ve driven several different vehicles with these units on them and they work pretty well, but they are some low hanging fruit. Off road clearance could be an issue. We’re you planning on taking them on and off depending on the season?
 

Awesomeness

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I’ve driven several different vehicles with these units on them and they work pretty well, but they are some low hanging fruit. Off road clearance could be an issue. We’re you planning on taking them on and off depending on the season?
The auto-chains in the video look like they are on arms that swing up, out of the way, when not in use. Is that how yours were?
 

TomTime

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The auto-chains in the video look like they are on arms that swing up, out of the way, when not in use. Is that how yours were?
Had a switch on the dash that activated an air solenoid that powered the arm with the rotating wheel with the chain to engage the inside of the tire. When it was disengage the chains were only about 3-4 inches off the ground.
The wheel with the chains has to be aligned with the tire so it spins correctly. If not connected correctly it will damage the inside of the tire or worse pull the assemble right off the truck…and I have seen that.
 

Reworked LMTV

Expedition Campers Limited, LLC
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a variation

I like this better. Small cut. Depth controlled. High risk for finger loss. He stepped on the cord. Yep, that will definitely be my choice...
 

coachgeo

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What you're looking for is biting edges, and channels to flow water out from under the contact surfaces. So anything you do that cuts large tread blocks into smaller ones will help.
I beg to differ though we may be speaking of different points of snow.... creating more blocks from large blocks for sure help in inches or more; for example off road, .... but for "highway" slipperiness... the magic is in the sipe, combined with channeling of water out as you mention is certainly important.
 

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