How do you paint your Deuce?

[Mohawkcharlie]

Sherwin Williams Automotive carries a product called Genesis. It is a two part urethane that dries flat and is easy to use. You can spray or roll it. This will last much longer than rattle cans.

 

[tokarev]

Thanks for the info on the SWA product.

 

[Mohawkcharlie]

Here is the process I use. Prior to painting, I select the colors I want to use doing a mockup on a piece of cardboard. this ensures that you do not paint your truck the wrong colors and hate it. Sherwin Williams can match any color you use for your rattle can mockup in their Genesis urethane flat. 2. Use a good degreaser and pressure wash or use a hose with a pressure nozzle on the end. That is your first wash. 2. I use the same degreaser called Purple Power in a bucket and hand wash the truck with a red scotch pad. I use the scotch pad to remove the chalking and prepare the surface for a new coat. After running the scotch pad with degreaser over the surface to be painted, rinse thoroughly with water. 3. I use an air powered Disc Sander with 80 grit paper to feather edges from dings in paint, and to sand down runs left by the military. I am a commercial painting contractor, so it is hard for me to leave any runs in paint. I have excellent equipment, but you can get everything you need a Harbor Freight and save $$$. I run the DS on any runs, rough areas, and dings to feather the edges. Then I use air to blow all the sanding dust off of the truck. 4. Take a rattle can of red oxide primer and hit any bare metal areas. Make sure to use a cardboard shield as your truck is not masked off yet. 5. Now that all our sanding and priming is complete, it is time to mask the truck off. Wash the entire truck one more time and let dry. Take a rag with denatured alcohol and wipe only the surfaces your masking tape is sticking to. After all surfaces are masked, it is time o paint. Use a gravity fed conventional hvlp gun and start with your darkest color to to your lightest. After the paint is dry remove masking and take pictures. Now, you are ready to stencil all the military markings back on. Have fun and send me some pictures when you are finished.

 

[aaron92685]

I bought a orbital sander off the Mac truck. And a Husky paint sprayer from Home depot. I pressure washed the truck before starting. I been sanding the truck with 80 grit sand paper. And replacing rusty hardware with new. Bought 2 gallons of Gillespie 24087. So far the truck looks good.

 

[rebelqwes87]

Pic and link!
View attachment 411758
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?p=925413

I have seen this truck in person at the GA Rally and it is beautiful!

 

[BAZYRKYR]

I used rollers to roll the paint onto my truck. I used Behr Premium exterior flat paint from HomeDepot. I think it turned out pretty good!

LOL...that does look good. **** good! I remember I touched up paint on the exhaust stack with a brush & roller and it looked pretty good. No lines or anything. I too am getting ready to repaint my truck...as well as my M105A2 & S-250...and your pictures have inspired me to do it very soon. I hope it is easier than the inside. It took the paint in my M109 box over a month to dry and actually the caulk in between the slight gap in the wall & raised insulated floor that I built took over a month longer than that even though I had it at over 110 degrees with 0% humidity in there for over 8 hours on the first day and an average of 70-80 degrees with only about 30% humidity thereafter. By the way...how many gallons did it take to paint that 900 series you have.

 

[olbucksnort]

nice. how many gallons did it take ?

 

[chgofiveo]

I used rollers to roll the paint onto my truck. I used Behr Premium exterior flat paint from HomeDepot. I think it turned out pretty good!

I have to tell you... That truck looks GREAT for a roller paint job!!! Congrats

 

[ntxcop]

I have to tell you... That truck looks GREAT for a roller paint job!!! Congrats

Thanks chgofiveo,

I think the bottom line to the question asked by this thread is that there are many different ways you can paint a military vehicle and it's pretty hard to mess up the paint job on one.



Keith

 

[SteveKuhn]

I posted the following here on rolling paint jobs: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ith-a-roller&p=1240148&viewfull=1#post1240148 The thread had a lot of commentary and examples, including SRJeeper's trailer.

What I posted was:

I was intrigued by the mention of rolling cars with RustOleum so I Googled. Here are 2 URLs with photos. Both had these in common: 50/50 thinning w/ mineral spirits; loads of sanding; many (6 - 8+) coats. Wonderful results. Loads of work on a Deuce and probably too much for a MV.

My "rustoleum $50 roll-on paint job"

Rickwrench, Alfa GTV, Falcon Squire, Corvair

Steve

 

[FatBuddhaBoo]

I posted the following here on rolling paint jobs: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ith-a-roller&p=1240148&viewfull=1#post1240148 The thread had a lot of commentary and examples, including SRJeeper's trailer.

What I posted was:

I was intrigued by the mention of rolling cars with RustOleum so I Googled. Here are 2 URLs with photos. Both had these in common: 50/50 thinning w/ mineral spirits; loads of sanding; many (6 - 8+) coats. Wonderful results. Loads of work on a Deuce and probably too much for a MV.

My "rustoleum $50 roll-on paint job"

Steve

Read through the thread above and I must say the guy did a great job! Luckily for us we don't have to worry about getting such a high gloss shine....

 

[SteveKuhn]

You can really get a spray-like finish if you put in some elbow grease on high gloss. Less is req'd for semi-gloss. Very little is required for flat. Latex is more difficult to thin to flow than alkyd. If you want the rough CARC-like texture with roller and latex, just roll over and over really dry. It'll set with the fine sandpaper like texture.

Steve

 

[mattwspeed]

i sanded the rough spots and fixed chips then sprayed base coat with a cheap sprayer and then did the camo patern with tape and a rattle can!.. turns out very nice... prep underneath with a steam washer!

 

[JasonS]

Any body use magic paint from tractor supply co. I have a can of dark green and I like the color I painted a sample area on my bumperView attachment 412072View attachment 412073
The light green is krylon

I noticed it at our local farm store and like the color better. Plus, it is available in quart cans. Anybody know if I can spray this with a wagner gun?

 

[rneely]

How about the interior? If a truck is painted by the military is the interior also done in CARC?

 

[Carlo]

A guy who is no longer on here anymore said pressure wash it and use rattle cans. I left all the runs on it from the military and my truck looks as good as it did when it was still being used by them.

Pressure wash
Knock big chips off
Prime with Rustoleum red
Takes twenty cans of Rapco 383 green to do it.

It is not a frame off resto truck but it is the one I show all the time.

I agree with you 100% To good looks non real in military standards plus its harder to re touch up if need be. Keep it simple!

 

[bigginstactical]

Obviously there are many ways to paint an MV. How i am painting mine is as follows, Sand blasting any rust that is found, feather all chips and metal edges out with 80 grit. Sand blasting the surface of everything else. I do this to "scuff" the paint that is sticking well. It makes it way easier to get into the hard to reach areas give the paint a great amount of bite for the new coat. Ill wax and grease remover the whole surface a couple of time. Re scuff and blast any places needed. Prime the bodywork and and metal areas. Prep them with 240 grit. paint the truck with an HVLP using AUE ( pretty much ALK) commercial grade paint with flattening agent added. Keep in mind I own an auto body shop and have all the knowledge and equipment available to me. I wouldn't recommend house paint for longevity on a MV because the UV screeners are not up to par with an automotive finish......unless you want the white chalked out look then go with house hold. you will get that look much faster then with a good quality automotive paint. Ill be posting some more pics soon of my project.

 

[wb1895]

How about the interior? If a truck is painted by the military is the interior also done in CARC?

Yes When the military paints them, they paint EVERYTHING..... exterior, interior, rubber, glass......It doesent matter to them. They just spray and pray

 

[blisters13]

I've been sand-blasting with 60 grit silica sand all of the sheet metal (doors, hood, fenders, etc.) and anywhere the frame is readily visible from a standing position down to bare metal, and also blasting all the other surfaces for chip removal and paint bite. This seems to work well so far.

I've been using RAPCO paint and my experience so far is that it adheres well and finishes nice, but it's a really soft paint that mars and scratches EASILY. This sucks. For example, I painted the front fenders and the engine side covers two months ago, so paint must be fully-cured, but I left the sides down while I idled the engine for twenty minutes and the paint looked like I had been sanding it down wherever the two parts touched. I also have a set of scratches on the fuel tank where a cat had slipped trying to jump up (cat scratches? REALLY?). So unless someone points out on RAPCO's paint pages instructions for me to use some kind of hardener that I missed, I will be recommending against RAPCO paint. It's just too soft. This is the 24087 early Vietnam semi-gloss OD green.

 

[aaron92685]

I've been sand-blasting with 60 grit silica sand all of the sheet metal (doors, hood, fenders, etc.) and anywhere the frame is readily visible from a standing position down to bare metal, and also blasting all the other surfaces for chip removal and paint bite. This seems to work well so far.

I've been using RAPCO paint and my experience so far is that it adheres well and finishes nice, but it's a really soft paint that mars and scratches EASILY. This sucks. For example, I painted the front fenders and the engine side covers two months ago, so paint must be fully-cured, but I left the sides down while I idled the engine for twenty minutes and the paint looked like I had been sanding it down wherever the two parts touched. I also have a set of scratches on the fuel tank where a cat had slipped trying to jump up (cat scratches? REALLY?). So unless someone points out on RAPCO's paint pages instructions for me to use some kind of hardener that I missed, I will be recommending against RAPCO paint. It's just too soft. This is the 24087 early Vietnam semi-gloss OD green.

Did you mix it well before spraying?