How I solved the M1101 to tall problem.

[maxtor]

From what others have said, replacing the ring with a standard ball type will make the surge brake inoperative. For my usage, the surge brake is not a necessity. I am not sure now, what I will go with, ball or pintle.

 

[tobyS]

Not true. Both ball and ring work equally well with a surge brake. Etrailer has modern ones for replacement that include a break away feature that some states want on trailers equipped with brakes. Personally I would almost remove them, if my tow vehicle was big enough to always stop it...it is a rather small trailer.

I can see no reason one cannot weld a ball hitch to an altered ring component...IF properly done and keep the surge working. What it may not do is be "legal", where break away devices are required (or the fabricator is not skilled). A hitch that looks like it will fail draws DOT further into an inspection.

I would keep the wheels and tires and make tongue modifications, including a new surge actuator with ball or ring that has the break away feature. Myself, I do all 2 5/16" ball so can hook up easily without changing the ball. Most light pickups use 2" and I wouldn't go smaller.

They are really nice trailers and you will improve it's value by spending a few bucks that make it usable for any pickup...meaning a new surge actuator and tongue mods. Big tires sell it... so changing them is reducing resale value.

 

[maxtor]

I can store the stock tires and wheels, in case I want to sell the trailer in the future. I called a local tire center today, and they have 30 inch tires and 16 inch wheels that would work fine for our trailer. Before I purchase them, I will check to see how level the trailer will ride with these tires and the stock pintle setup for my truck. All I have to do is remove the bolts from my home made hitch system and it will be back to stock. This should drop the trailer down 4.5 inches. His 30 inch trailer tires are good for 2950 lbs. each.

 

[MarkM]

I had to drop down my M101A2 and below is how I did mine.

Mark

 

[maxtor]

That is a great idea. Looks good.

 

[tobyS]

Yes Mark, those are the pieces I purchased also (for m105), except I have a 2 5/16" ball receiver that bolts on. They have various lengths available of C with holes.

You seem to confirm that cutting and welding the forged component is possible. I thought it is forged steel...so can be welded...but I have a different setup than the surge brake.

And nice work....even though modified one can hardly tell it (of course paint helps).

FYI...California does not require the break away device...so this change appears entirely legal for this trailer (it does not even need brakes at all), in Cal.

 

[maxtor]

Looks like this is going to work out just right. It is rated for 16k. The way it is braced, I don't think it will cause a problem with the 2 inch receiver. I checked my receiver and it has an slip in reinforcement that doubles the thickness.


http://www.etrailer.com/p-BWPMHD14005.html

 

[Ratch]

I use one of those for M101's and my backhoe trailer.

Another drawback of raising the hitch to match the trailer is the weird leverage making handling squirrelly. But with operable surge brakes, I don't think it's much of a big deal.
Something to keep in mind... When the military first bought these trailers, they were all immediately grounded because components of the surge brakes were cracking. Obviously later models would have this corrected from the factory, but the fact that it occurred at all indicates to me that the engineering was not very well done in the first place, which would make me a little hesitant to do anything that stresses it outside it's factory intended function. It's actually a reason I haven't gotten into the 1100's yet.

 

[Mr45]

Here's what I did: Had the machineshop in town cut the ring off at the extension box (it's hollow) and weld in a 6" channel, and a 3/8 plate on the bottom.
Gives me a good enough drop, and sits almost level behind my FJ Cruiser.

 

[harleyhouse]

Interesting does it still activate the surge brakes the same way?

 

[Mr45]

View attachment 491687Interesting does it still activate the surge brakes the same way?

Yep. There is a giant steel roller on top in the receiver area which keeps it from binding up, so with a longer arm like mine, it still works.

 

[tobyS]

That is a much better solution Mr45. It does not try and twist the receiver with a long moment arm.

The part must be cast or forged steel, not iron, so it can be welded. Keep an eye on your weld zones to see if any cracking occurs.

Personally I would want a good "fit" and would weld a root weld with stick 6011 and after cleaning off slag, come back with 7018 over the top, making sure it's penetrating and putting in plenty of metal. Some people would mig weld it, but not me. Most migs don't penetrate on thick materials...but some of the newer ones do.

Have fun with your trailer!

 

[Mr45]

That is a much better solution Mr45. It does not try and twist the receiver with a long moment arm.

The part must be cast or forged steel, not iron, so it can be welded. Keep an eye on your weld zones to see if any cracking occurs.

Personally I would want a good "fit" and would weld a root weld with stick 6011 and after cleaning off slag, come back with 7018 over the top, making sure it's penetrating and putting in plenty of metal. Some people would mig weld it, but not me. Most migs don't penetrate on thick materials...but some of the newer ones do.

Have fun with your trailer!

Thanks. I didn't want to go with a long receiver arm for the reason you mentioned.

plus, the rear door of my FJ just about clears it, and will completely with airbags installed.
that couldn't happen with a 12" arm on the pintle.

 

[Tabasco Kid]

Hello Ev-1.. my 1st post so let's see if this works... I will be heading out as soon as my EUC comes in to Ft. Stewart to pick up a M1101 that I won on GL. ( 297$ out the gate if anyone wants to know ). Anyways, I will be pulling it w/ my 4Runner w/ a 12" reciever hitch. I will try and post pic's of my set up if I can figure out how to post them. Input is welcome and thx in advance for ev-1's help.

 

[Tabasco Kid]

I think I am sitting right at 27.5" on lvl ground.. I will go check to be sure...

 

[Tabasco Kid]

I am sitting at 24" to the hitch opening. :/

 

[tobyS]

No offense Tobasco, but that is the style with a very long moment arm to the connection point and any looseness in the tube fit will get magnified. I've had trailers weave from side and nearly go out of control with similar geometry. There are two excellent examples of proper geometry by Mark and M45 above.

You may be entirely okay, just monitor your side to side motions and slow down if you see it starting. I found it is really not best to hit the brakes too hard if it does occur.

 

[Tabasco Kid]

Thx TobyS... If need be I will barrow my cousins 2500 chevy but Im sure the hitch wil not be much higher. If I come across a good deal b-4 I head out on a couple of 8 lug 16" wheels/tires, I will pull it off base and swap out the wheels b-4 the 6 hr trip back home.

 

[maxtor]

Ok, here is what I found. The stock military lunette ring is to thick to work with my pintle hook setup. Empty, it binds up and will bend the plate, no matter the length. You can purchase a military size pintle, but the price would not be worth it to me. I am going to have the lunette on each of my trailers cut off and have a standard 2 5/8 hitch modified for height and welded on.

 

[tobyS]

You will probably be fine, just keep an eye on it. Empty is not so bad as loaded and like mentioned above, it is a short trailer.

That's a good price for your trailer. Good luck