how level does a m101a2 trailer need to be - realistically

[hplacess]

hi.

Question about how level a m101a2 trailer needs to be - realistically.

From what I have read, general rules of thumb are that any trailer should be level, or near level, and it is better nose down than nose up. But looking at people towing all types of trailers on the road, that is not always the case.


So, I finally got my freshly Behr painted GP m101a2 on the road after a major struggle of trying to get it registered in NJ.

I hooked it up to my Toyota FJ Cruiser and took it for a long ride. All in all, the trailer handles extremely well. I am thrilled with it.


So now on to the specifics about 'level':

when the trailer is not connected to a vehicle, and adjusted to be perfectly level, it is 30 inches from the ground to the bottom of the trailer box in the front and rear.

When the trailer is connected to my vehicle, with the pintle hitch plate I have on the vehicle now, it is 26 inches from the ground to the bottom of the trailer box in the front and 34 inches from the ground to the bottom of the trailer box in the rear. Please check out the pics to see what it looks like. A difference of about 4 inches.

One good thing about the current setup is that I can still swing open the rear door of the vehicle. The trailer handles well as is when towed - I am not detecting any issues with it not being level.

I know I can get a taller hitch plate to level out the trailer, but from my measurements I think I might not be able to swing open the rear door anymore.

So, I am wondering if that 'front of the trailer 4 inches nose down' (from 30 inches level to 26 inches nose down) is 'ok'. Can that 4 inches difference cause safety issues or problems.

Thanks in advance for any advice, opinions, or experiences you might share. I have not had a trailer like this before.

 

[Scar59]

It looks good, a little nose low is fine. Once you add cargo/contents to the trailer the rear will come down a little.
Remember to keep at least 2/3s the weight in front of the trailer axle to prevent wagging the trailer. Those are great trailers for all around use.
Always secure your cargo before travel. Get a good set of straps and a cargo net. Great combination to keep it all together.
That trailer will follow you anywhere.

 

[juanprado]

I would say my answer depends on how much weight are you going to carry?

Are those the stock tires? Hard to tell but looks shorter?

Looks ok now and will settle with weight but things will tend to slide down if not strapped well and will make nose/tongue weight Difficult to handle. The swivel jack will make it easier to unhook.

If you are going to max it out with gravel/firewood etc, I would go for level with a different hitch riser or lower tires than the 235/85/16 oe

 

[98G]

Close enough is close enough. And I believe that to be close enough....

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yeah, empty thats fine. It will level out with weight in it

 

[Recovry4x4]

Load distribution and load securement is much more critical than a level trailer. A single axle has less concern since there is no spring hangar gemoetry to consider.

 

[tennmogger]

With trailer loaded with 2/3 weight toward the front, the FJC springs will sag much more than the trailer will level, IMHO. My wife's FJC sags rapidly with a load. The trailer has much stronger springs.

If this were my trailer I'd use it like you have it and aim for 10% tongue weight. Being able to open the FJC rear door is worth a sloping trailer.

 

[quickfarms]

The trailer needs to be level. This issue is more prevalent with the surge brakes. Your nose down situation could cause the brakes to drag. There is an adjustable front piece that is available for the surge brake assembly.

Unless you have upgraded the FJ's suspension and added airbags the situation will get worse when you load the trailer.

I think it is time for you to lift the FJ and get some bigger tires.

 

[rustystud]

The trailer needs to be level. This issue is more prevalent with the surge brakes. Your nose down situation could cause the brakes to drag. There is an adjustable front piece that is available for the surge brake assembly.

Unless you have upgraded the FJ's suspension and added airbags the situation will get worse when you load the trailer.

I think it is time for you to lift the FJ and get some bigger tires.

Quickfarms is correct about "surge brake" trailers needing the trailer level. It can cause brake issues but usually only on loaded trailers. I would "guesstamate" your average weight you will be hauling and set your hitch and suspension to be level at that weight. I had a surge brake trailer go out of control on the highway due to the tongue dropping down and applying the brakes. I really hate surge brakes !!!!!! They are the work of the "devil" !!!

 

[gringeltaube]

Quickfarms is correct about "surge brake" trailers needing the trailer level....

I'm not so sure about that. Do you really think that just those 3 degrees (out of perfectly level) will make a difference?

 

[Mainsail]

I'm not an expert on the level thing, but to answer something you said you can get a taller riser for that pintle. A taller riser should also move it farther back; mine did. I have no problem getting the rear hatch on my WK open. I prefer it open when I'm backing up to the trailer because I can look over my shoulder and see the pintle; no assistance needed.

So there you go; get the taller riser and then there is no issue with level or not level and it will probably be stronger too.

 

[bigbe5678]

I have a Toyota FJ and a M101a3 trailer . It have upgraded shocks and tires (on the FJ) I pulled about 2 ton of field stone with no trouble. It sits a little nose down in front but I have most of the weight on or in front of the trailer axle .

 

[Recovry4x4]

I'm not so sure about that. Do you really think that just those 3 degrees (out of perfectly level) will make a difference?

I'm curious as to the "Why" of this. The trailer doesn't know it's nose down. Obviously if the angle is substantial, I could see the effect of reduced braking as the force isn't applied directly. Ive towed my A3 with plenty of different vehicle and the trailer was not always level but never noticed any ill effects.

 

[gimpyrobb]

If you ever noticed that it did bind, I bet some grease on the "slide area" would remedy the issue. I've never had any issues other than the shock in the housing going out.

 

[DeadParrot]

Try it the way it is. One problem with a riser is it gives the trailer tongue more leverage on the hitch. If it starts trying to wag the dog, the riser or hitch might fail. I think there are a few threads on this forum featuring bent risers. I find it hard to believe that the trailer won't tolerate a bit of not perfectly lined up since it is designed to carry a full load across what the military defines as cross country.

If you have or can borrow some 55gal barrels, put 4 or 5 in the trailer and fill them with water. Each full barrel is about 440lbs. You will find out how both the vehicle and trailer will react as the load increases. When finished, you can either siphon the water out or tip and dump the barrels. Static testing only.

 

[quickfarms]

Several trailer manufacturers that I was able to look up there information, specify that the tongue must be within 1" of level with the trailer and towing vehicle fully loaded.

Each of the 3/4 ton trailer versions were specifically mated to a tow vehicle In there design phase. By doing this the military tried to keep the trailers level. In the field anything ca happen

As far as the bent risers go. I have used large risers for several decades and have yet to bend one or the hitch. There are some light risers that I would never use. Also get the heaviest duty hitch for the vehicle and understand that the riser could reduce your capacity.

Both of my fords are getting new curt class V hitches, 20000 lb trailer with 3000 tongue weight capacity

 

[Mainsail]

I think there are a few threads on this forum featuring bent risers.

My previous riser for my previous M1101 trailer bent when the lunette ring got bound up during a turn. In hindsight I think the pintle was too small, and the riser not up to the task. This time around I went heavy duty on both. The heavier pintle seems bigger to me.

The first two pics shows the previous riser, the last shows the one I have now.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Nice cord adapter!

 

[rustystud]

I'm not so sure about that. Do you really think that just those 3 degrees (out of perfectly level) will make a difference?

If it was loaded and it still had that degree of angle then yes it could. In his case once the trailer is loaded it will level right out.
I was on the highway going downhill (pretty steep grade) when that stupid trailer decided to apply the brakes ! It caused the trailer to start to "whip" me around. Applying and releasing the brakes in a vicious circle. My trailer had maybe just a little more angle then his here, but not much more.

 

[gimpyrobb]

That sounds like the shock was bad. I had one go bad and it would do the same thing just slowing down for a stop sign. I've towed these thousands of miles and had no problem when all the parts were in working order.