How much cranking is necessary for starting?

[doghead]

Does the in-tank pump run continuously?

Yes

 

[houdel]

Do you get a good flow of fuel from the drain on the primary filter with the in tank pump running?

 

[oifvet]

Do you get a good flow of fuel from the drain on the primary filter with the in tank pump running?

It has not operated since I have had the truck, (that I know of). So, I am not able to do that test.

 

[houdel]

The pump runs continually as long as the master switch is on.

 

[houdel]

Do you get a good flow of fuel from the drain on the primary filter with the in tank pump running?

It has not operated since I have had the truck, (that I know of). So, I am not able to do that test.

Time to pull the primary filter cannister off, clean out the crud, and install a new primary filter. If there is enough gunk in there that the drain does not flow fuel, chances are that the primary filter is also pretty well plugged up which will contribute to hard starting. Worse yet, if the primary filter is REALLY crapped up you could have fuel bypassing the primary filter, which NOT a good situation!

 

[derby]

You ever use a set of cheap jumper cables? They don't get hot for no reason.the wire gauge is too low for the amp draw.if your in tank pump blew a 20 A. fuse then it has issues.if you use a fuse larger than the wire gauge can carry it could melt the coating off the wire,first from the pump to the cab,cab to main harness melt some other wires together, short them make alot of smelly smoke and even catch that old McDonalds bag on the floor on fire.Don't ask me how I know! the fuse is actually there to protect the wire not the pump. that is all I have to say about that.

 

[ken]

If you pump is blowing fuses, pull it out and clean the pick up screens. Some pumps have screws so you can pull the screans out and clean them. Others are rivited. Make sure you clean the impeller and voulute housing good with brake or carb cleaner. Every time i've seen one blow the fuse the pump was full of crap or rust. This puts a drag on the pump and causes it to overload and blow the fuse.

 

[OPCOM]

The in tank pump is a centrifugal type with an impeller. The fuel can pass right through it, as evidenced by people running with dead pumps. The pump runs at all times the power switch is on.
Was your fuse worse than this?
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....viewtopic&p=115647&highlight=fuse+fuel#115647
In any case I put a 4A slow-blow 125V fuse in. No more problems. It takes a 24V or 32V one I suppose one, but a 125V will fit and work.
With the in-tank pump running with engine off, it will move enough fuel to let you observe some curning as the return fuel comes back into the tank (at least mine does).

 

[oifvet]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....1&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
This was good to know.

I pulled the pump, and it's surprisingly clean. It has some rustiness about it, but if it's original, it looks good. It is a "riveted" version. I ordered a new one and I'm going to put it in. Is the old one a "throw-away?" Or, can it be used for any parts? Is it a worth-while piece to rebuild? Is it possible?

 

[oifvet]

The new pump is in. Purrs nicely. I did learn never to assume that the height of the pump along the hanger is set the same on the new one, as your old one. I learned that after I had already smeared a nice thin coat of gasket sealer-maker over the cork gasket. So much for "assemble parts immediately." When I lowered the pump into the tank, it hit bottom before the top met it's mating surface. "Pull up, pull up!" Hurry! remove two screws, slide the pump up two holes, re-install screws! Oh no!, you have to shorten the hose now! Get a razor blade, the hose clamp stripped, find a new one, put it on, realize that the hose has to pass over the pump locking clamp. That's what keeps it from popping up. All this allows the Permatex to dry. Oh well. If fuel seeps or sweats out around the screws and gasket, I'll do some scraping and reapplying. Or, not worry about it. But, I probably will.
************************************************************************
Two days later... Just replaced all three fuel filters. Hosed some lovely red (clay? rust? goo?) out of the filter cans. Holy Smoke-stacks, Batman!! What a difference!! Smooth, responsive! Absolutely incredible, the difference! If I would have had the time, tools, and facilities to do all of this before I drove the baby home, I would have made sweet time. Probably spent less on diesel, too! Doesn't matter much now. But, boy just wait until I buy my next truck! I'll be SO much smarter and more prepared!

 

[50shooter]

Great fuels lessons. I have another scenario. My new 1977 multi is sitting half in the yard and half on the street. It quit while going down the hwy. It sputtered and came to life a few times. I suspected fuel and it did look like very old crud. I drained the tank, clean it, cleaned all filter cans and changed all 3 filters. I bleed the system and injectors. It fired right up and ran perfect....for 2 minutes then quit. Tonight I had to reprime the secondaries and bleed injectors again. Fired up and ran great for 1 minute then quit. I found air in the clear line above the injectors. Both secondary filters were half or less full. The primary was full.

The in tank works for a while then stops pumping.

Shouldn't the mechanical take over once started even if the elec. in tank is going bad?

The fuel only oozes or bubbles out of the secondary bleeeder. Shouldn't it come out w/authority?

Please Help...I'm tired of working in the snow.

Thanks
Jason