davesgmc
Active member
- 833
- 131
- 43
- Location
- Mclouth, KS
How much oil do the diffs on the 5-ton take to fill? I want to drain and refill all the diffs, the trans and the transfer case. Does anyone know how much each takes by any chance?
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
how much gear oil do i need?
- Thread starter davesgmc
- Start date
- 10,866
- 763
- 113
- Location
- Appomattox, VA
According to the Lubrication Order, and assuming you are referring to the 809 series of 5-tons, each differential takes 12 quarts of 80/90 weight gear oil. That's 3 gallons per axle, 9 gallons total.
Transfer case takes 5.25 quarts.
Transmission takes 9 quarts, or 11 quarts if it has a PTO (for a winch).
Transfer case takes 5.25 quarts.
Transmission takes 9 quarts, or 11 quarts if it has a PTO (for a winch).
davesgmc
Active member
- 833
- 131
- 43
- Location
- Mclouth, KS
actually not the 800 series, but the m139 truck.
- 10,866
- 763
- 113
- Location
- Appomattox, VA
I checked - the fluid amounts for the M139 is exactly the same as I stated above for the M809 series.
Here's the LO you need for your reference. Staple it to your forehead.
Here's the LO you need for your reference. Staple it to your forehead.
davesgmc
Active member
- 833
- 131
- 43
- Location
- Mclouth, KS
thanks
rsh253
New member
- 142
- 1
- 0
- Location
- Fort Mill, South Carolina
And don't over fill!
I have a deuce and when I bought it, both axle housing breathers were plugged and by the time I drove it home, I had three axle seals leaking. I replaced the seals and drained & refilled the axle housings. And one of the darn seals started leaking again. I re-checked the level and used the "one knuckle" rule. The oil level should be one finger knuckle below the bottom the drain hole (about 3/4"). After lowering the level, no more leak. (I caught it before the bearing grease got flushed out.)
I don't know 5 tons, but I'd guess they'd be the same. Heck, I used that old rule on my old MGB & F150!
-Russ
I have a deuce and when I bought it, both axle housing breathers were plugged and by the time I drove it home, I had three axle seals leaking. I replaced the seals and drained & refilled the axle housings. And one of the darn seals started leaking again. I re-checked the level and used the "one knuckle" rule. The oil level should be one finger knuckle below the bottom the drain hole (about 3/4"). After lowering the level, no more leak. (I caught it before the bearing grease got flushed out.)
I don't know 5 tons, but I'd guess they'd be the same. Heck, I used that old rule on my old MGB & F150!
-Russ
buddy_holly
New member
- 50
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Tucson, AZ
I read through the LO for diff oil but has anyone deviated from it? Maybe tried a different oil in their diff? Am I mistaken in thinking that the mil spec equals GL4? My front diff seriously needs to be changed and I want to put good stuff in. I live in AZ so I definitely need something that can take the heat
TexAndy
Active member
- 1,427
- 16
- 38
- Location
- Bee County, Texas
LO states it should be 1/2" from the bottom of the fill hole when cold. Even with the fill hole when hot.
As for what type, I went with the walmart stuff in the blue 1 gallon bottles. 80w90 GL5 I think it was.
As for what type, I went with the walmart stuff in the blue 1 gallon bottles. 80w90 GL5 I think it was.
AMGeneral
Well-known member
- 2,301
- 115
- 63
- Location
- Connelly Springs, NC
Me personally,I use GL5 MT1 in all my differentials and winch drive,and other gear boxes.
I use C 50 for the transmission and transfer case, But I usually go through at least 4 5 gallon buckets for each 5 ton for a complete gear oil change.
I've gotten to where I buy engine and gear oil by the 55 gallon drum,saves trips to the parts store and less plastic buckets sitting around to trip over.
I use C 50 for the transmission and transfer case, But I usually go through at least 4 5 gallon buckets for each 5 ton for a complete gear oil change.
I've gotten to where I buy engine and gear oil by the 55 gallon drum,saves trips to the parts store and less plastic buckets sitting around to trip over.
Sgt. Sam
New member
- 70
- 1
- 0
- Location
- Salmon,Idaho
Oil
All I can tell you is when I changed all the oil on my M-62 I had used 14 gallons of gear oil and 5 gallons of engine oil.
All I can tell you is when I changed all the oil on my M-62 I had used 14 gallons of gear oil and 5 gallons of engine oil.
LanceRobson
Well-known member
- 1,638
- 206
- 63
- Location
- Pinnacle, Stokes County, NC
If you are using quart bottles, buy 5 cases. If you have a winch and do the winch housings too, you'll have a few quarts left over, no winch and you'll have 6-7 bottles left.
Maddawg308 had the quantities right. The only thing he didn't cover was the winch gear case and end housing. From memory, they'll take 4-5 quarts.
Lube goes bad from oxidation and oild oil will contaminate new oil and cause it to break down faster so although expensive the best way to establish a firm baseline for furure maintenance is to break all the fill and drain plugs loose and run the truck for 5-6 miles to warm up the oil. Then drain the existing oil and refill it with (hopefully cheap) oil and take it back out to warm that up. Then drain it again and fill it again.
That will wash all the old oil and more crud out of the cases. Now you can extend the change intervals based on knowing what is in there, whether the truck is stored indoors, the kind of use (or lack of use) it gets etc.
Lance
Maddawg308 had the quantities right. The only thing he didn't cover was the winch gear case and end housing. From memory, they'll take 4-5 quarts.
Lube goes bad from oxidation and oild oil will contaminate new oil and cause it to break down faster so although expensive the best way to establish a firm baseline for furure maintenance is to break all the fill and drain plugs loose and run the truck for 5-6 miles to warm up the oil. Then drain the existing oil and refill it with (hopefully cheap) oil and take it back out to warm that up. Then drain it again and fill it again.
That will wash all the old oil and more crud out of the cases. Now you can extend the change intervals based on knowing what is in there, whether the truck is stored indoors, the kind of use (or lack of use) it gets etc.
Lance