How to balance a Goodyear 395/85/20

[bachman502]

Do the tires have the run flats in them?

 

[simp5782]

XZLs are good tires. They are better offroad IMO. Wearing, eh it depends on what you are doing

Yes Tom even 2017 date codes that have been sitting low or flat for i would say more than a few weeks aren't going to be worth crap.

I have alot of shake from the MVTs on the m915 but that is from the rear not having much weight on them.

 

[m-35tom]

Do the tires have the run flats in them?

No, only bead locks

 

[ckouba]

Where/how do you get these dynamically balanced? I've called all around the Portland, OR area and all the industrial tire places are telling me they can't spin something of this magnitude. Any advice? I've tried a local Firestone, the commercial side of Les Schwab, GCR, and Superior. I can/will keep calling around but the guys at those places who know the town are saying I'm pushing on a rope.

 

[gringeltaube]

Why is it that people insist so much to have these 350# heavyweights dynamically balanced?
I'm confident to say that >90% of all cases can be solved satisfactorily by simply attaching the necessary counterweight at the right spot, inside the inner rim-wheel half, closest to the wheel disc.
This is a merely static balance, but if done right (*) it will be precise enough to detect/compensate even a small rock stuck in between the tread blocks.
Of course it all makes sense only if all CTIS components are also attached to the wheel.

And if a MV/T tire, mounted on a typical FMTV steel wheel, does wobble too much I have found that it usually isn't so much the tire itself, but rather the inner half of the wheel not being perfectly centered to the outer disc & rim, and this causing run-out (**). If so, that should be addressed first, before attempting any balancing.

---------------------------------------------

(*) See this post...

(**) This can easily happen because this wheel's design in particular (#2530-01-370-5530) allows for too much play (IMHO), where it bolts together.
The 20 studs from the rear part #2530-01-371-1488 are Ø5/8" but the holes in the front section #2530-01-371-5836 are Ø3/4" which implies that in theory both parts could shift almost 3mm, relative to each other. (And according to Mr.Murphy, all possible errors/deviations usually are cumulative instead of compensating...)

 

[m-35tom]

Where/how do you get these dynamically balanced? I've called all around the Portland, OR area and all the industrial tire places are telling me they can't spin something of this magnitude. Any advice? I've tried a local Firestone, the commercial side of Les Schwab, GCR, and Superior. I can/will keep calling around but the guys at those places who know the town are saying I'm pushing on a rope.

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Good luck finding anyone who will take the time to help you. All the goodyear dealers here just do not want to do it and will tell you anything to get out of it.

 

[ckouba]

Why is it that people insist so much to have these 350# heavyweights dynamically balanced?
I'm confident to say that >90% of all cases can be solved satisfactorily by simply attaching the necessary counterweight at the right spot, inside the inner rim-wheel half, closest to the wheel disc.
This is a merely static balance, but if done right (*) it will be precise enough to detect/compensate even a small rock stuck in between the tread blocks.
Of course it all makes sense only if all CTIS components are also attached to the wheel.

And if a MV/T tire, mounted on a typical FMTV steel wheel, does wobble too much I have found that it usually isn't so much the tire itself, but rather the inner half of the wheel not being perfectly centered to the outer disc & rim, and this causing run-out (**). If so, that should be addressed first, before attempting any balancing.

---------------------------------------------

(*) See this post...

(**) This can easily happen because this wheel's design in particular (#2530-01-370-5530) allows for too much play (IMHO), where it bolts together.
The 20 studs from the rear part #2530-01-371-1488 are Ø5/8" but the holes in the front section #2530-01-371-5836 are Ø3/4" which implies that in theory both parts could shift almost 3mm, relative to each other. (And according to Mr.Murphy, all possible errors/deviations usually are cumulative instead of compensating...)

Thanks for those links and the commentary. Makes a lot of sense, particularly about the wheel halves... Where were you when I swapped the tires in September??!?!?! Looks like I have a bit of work to do this weekend.

Your static balancer is great and looks like it's for the earlier MV's, you wouldn't happen to have built one up for the LMTV wheels/10 x 11.25 pattern, would you? Where did you find a suitable hub and bearings?

 

[gringeltaube]

Your static balancer is great and looks like it's for the earlier MV's, you wouldn't happen to have built one up for the LMTV wheels/10 x 11.25 pattern, would you? Where did you find a suitable hub and bearings?

Ha-ha, it is just an old homemade engine stand, where I stick in- and support (the opposite end of) whatever I use as a spindle...
Over the time I have built me "free-spinning" hubs for almost every popular wheel size- and pattern. Just not for 10 on 11.25" yet, because I never needed it so far. There aren't any M939s or FMTV's around here; all the big trucks are either 8 on 275mm or 10 on 335mm.

But I'm sure you could find a typical 5-ton hub in every truck junkyard in the USA. Or post a want-ad in our classifieds. Or simply make one yourself... (E.g. by welding a #5/8 x Ø13" flange to a piece of Ø3.5" Sch.80 pipe and then do some lathe work...)
For bearing size in that case I would go with #6207 or #6208 because those are most popular sizes and cheap... Also depends on what you have laying around, to serve as a spindle.
It is clear that if you ended with a real hub it will need some kind of metal "pucks" pressed in (one on each end; steel or aluminum) and then turned to fit your bearing outer diameter.
Final weight of your "balancing hub" doesn't really matter, since it will be balanced to neutral, of course. The trick is to end with something that turns absolute true, with almost no internal drag and keeping your wheel/tire well centered while spinning.

 

[chucky]

Has no one ever used centramatic wheel balancing on military tires on this site ? Im almost positive the stud pattern will fit our hubs qnd we used to true 11/24.5 with this machine you just rolled up to tire with the vehicle jacked up it would spin the tire and shave rubber off the tread where the tire was out of round after that it was like rideing on glass

 

[m-35tom]

Not necessarily an issue of being out of round but running true and being 88 oz out of balance. Thursday we hope to have the tires analyzed by a road force balancer to find the issue.

 

[Reworked LMTV]

Not necessarily an issue of being out of round but running true and being 88 oz out of balance. Thursday we hope to have the tires analyzed by a road force balancer to find the issue.

would be interesting to see some picts of the readings on the machine.

 

[m-35tom]

Still unable to balance tires. Interesting that at the point where the tire called for weight, the tread runs warmer than the rest of the tread. Tire has 0.058 run out on one side. Maybe Goodyears cannot be run more than 50 mph? Why are they rated for 68?

 

[sue]

“.058 run out. Take that tire to bonneville and set some speed records.

 

[m-35tom]

OK today I made a 'tool' to take the tires off the wheels. It is now very easy and takes no time at all. So then I bolted a wheel back together with 4 nuts and put it on my custom made mount for any large balancer with 40mm spindle. No side to side runout and the inner flange ran true (not really the flange but the area at the bottom of flange where the tire sits) The outer had a runout of .060 and the wheel alone was out of balance by 6 oz. Opinions? Bad wheel?

 

[Waterhouse]

So do you have an update for this? We’re you successful?