How to keep her cool?

[Sharecropper]

Coolant flows up and out of the heads at the front. The rear of the block has little flow compared to the front. By drawing coolant at the back you create flow where there was little before. We do not claim our kit reduces system temperature at all, however it does balance the temps front to back by creating a flow path for the overheated rear of the block. Please read our blog on the subject so you can better understand how the coolant flows in these engines. https://paradoxbydesign.com/blogs/news/the-humvee-diesel-engine-cooling-paradox

I have no desire or intention of engaging with you in a debate on this issue. To respond to your condescending remark, I can assure you that I completely understand these engines and how they operate. You are in business trying to sell your $300 kits. I get that. However having followed your posts for quite some time, I have yet to see you offer any proof that your kit improves claimed cooling, horsepower, or efficiency. So I will isssue you a challenge right here on Steel Soldiers for all to see - show proof and I will be the first to jump on your bandwagon. Without proof, there is no proof. I am certainly capable of fabricating my own bypass kit for approximately 10% of the cost of your kit. If I thought it would work, I would build and install it myself, not pay you an absorbant sum for a few fittings and 5 feet of -AN hose. Go ahead - reply to this post. I will not reply, I am through.

 

[911joeblow]

I was not trying to be condescending but instead offering a link to more information so that anyone who wants to learn more can do so. This is a complicated subject to understand fully and had it not been for our motorsports engineering background, we would not have undertook this project. Why? Because it is just too small a market to make financial sense to start from scratch. Thankfully we had worked in this specific field for a long time before and started with much of the work done. That being said, we have thoroughly and carefully tested, refined and verified our kits and with many hundreds of kits out there we can let our customers results speak for themselves as proof the kits work as designed. Testimonials are all over our site as well as Steel Soldiers.

 

[dougco1]

I was not trying to be condescending but instead offering a link to more information so that anyone who wants to learn more can do so. This is a complicated subject to understand fully and had it not been for our motorsports engineering background, we would not have undertook this project. Why? Because it is just too small a market to make financial sense to start from scratch. Thankfully we had worked in this specific field for a long time before and started with much of the work done. That being said, we have thoroughly and carefully tested, refined and verified our kits and with many hundreds of kits out there we can let our customers results speak for themselves as proof the kits work as designed. Testimonials are all over our site as well as Steel Soldiers.

I have purchased and installed your kit last year after doing a lot of reading and research and while replacing cracked heads on one of my rides. No problems as of yet nor am I expecting any.

I have not noticed a "Huge increase in HP" Nor a "Increase in fuel mileage" or "Faster off the line" as some may have claimed. I do however have some sense of security that I am helping my engine even if its in a small way.

As far as your kit price is concerned, I feel it's a lot cheaper by far than replacing a cracked head. And as for making our own kits to save some jingle, most of us backyard mechanics don't have that ability and it would cost much more in time spent and wasted to do so anyways.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

I know that the science is not always easy to follow so here is another way to look at this.

GM and later GEP continuously worked on this rear engine overheating issue over the life of the 6.2 and 6.5 engines. First they changed the crossover design, then they added a dual thermostat housing, then a higher flow pump, in HMMWVs they went to a geared fan, then when all else failed to solve the issue they did one of the worst admissions of failure in recent memory. They oversized the bores of just cylinders #7&8 so that when they overheated they would not score the cylinder walls, break rings and seize up the engine! If you don't believe the science, believe the trail of evidence!

Later, GM in the development of the LS engines knew that they needed precise balance of the cylinder to cylinder temps so they could run lean enough to meet the stricter emissions laws and not cause detonation. They were able to get away with rear engine over temps in earlier gas engines by simply running richer but with added emissions standards could no longer do this. GM came up with what they call the Steam Vent. The Steam Vent is a coolant pipe which draws coolant from the back of the block and reintroduces it at the front to create better flow to the back of the block/heads. This is the same as we are doing with our kits.

Ls steam tubes are there to get any trapped air out of the top of the engine because the thermostat is in the water pump down low on the engine and coolant doesn’t flow thru the block with it closed to get rid of that trapped air.
Also later gen IV Ls engines only have steam ports up front, not at the back.

 

[911joeblow]

Ls steam tubes are there to get any trapped air out of the top of the engine because the thermostat is in the water pump down low on the engine and coolant doesn’t flow thru the block with it closed to get rid of that trapped air.
Also later gen IV Ls engines only have steam ports up front, not at the back.

As the LS engines developed they altered the casting of the coolant passages to accommodate better balance of coolant flow within the block. Most European engine designs have been doing this for years. Things are getting better for V8s as development continues. Our kits create a flow path where there was none before which constantly burps air/steam and coolant from the back of the block/heads. Same idea, different engine and for different reasons.

The reason the later LS blocks only have the front ports is due to a change in the manifold design making the rear ports difficult to run as they had before. The aftermarket manufacturers have stepped up to add back the rear ports with flexible line systems like ours to accommodate different intake manifold designs and go back to the benefit of having the rear ports. Motorsports tuners spend a lot of time balancing the temps so they can run right at the edge of detonation and they cant do that if they have one or two cylinders running hotter then the rest.