How to mount 37" - 24 bolt HMMWV wheels and tires on an M1028

[goldneagle]

I did a 4" lift on my truck with new springs in the front and 4" lift blocks in the back. The front have 2" aluminum spacers behind the rims. Stock steering with an adjustable drag link. The truck steers like a dream. No rubbing and smooth turns. Once I had the HMMWV tires balanced it rides really well on the highway with speed up to 65 MPH. I try not to let it go higher than that.

 

[Csm Davis]

I would like to see the overload springs that are on the truck. As to making it safe and legal use the 16.5 wheels that you have the 42" swampers on, swap on the 37" tires sell the 42"s get rid of any junk that was added to the lift and do the cross over steering. This should get you on the right road cheap as possible and safely rolling down the road. Then as you or your son gets the money you can do things like DRW hubs, then the beadlock wheels and disk brakes on the rear that will add to the safety of the truck.

 

[goldneagle]

I would like to see the overload springs that are on the truck. As to making it safe and legal use the 16.5 wheels that you have the 42" swampers on, swap on the 37" tires sell the 42"s get rid of any junk that was added to the lift and do the cross over steering. This should get you on the right road cheap as possible and safely rolling down the road. Then as you or your son gets the money you can do things like DRW hubs, then the beadlock wheels and disk brakes on the rear that will add to the safety of the truck.

My truck steers like a dream with just the use of an adjustable drag link. So what is the benefit of the cross-over steering? Maybe it is only necessary for taller lifts?

 

[Skinny]

You will notice that under hard braking or hitting uneven bumps in the road like the breakdown lane that the truck tends to steer itself. This happens when the front axle moves rapidly, the short draglink and operating angle causes it to steer without driver input. Offroad, you pretty much lose all control in the technical stuff because of the short draglink. The geometry is also hard on the steering box and frame mount. Crossover is like a big wet dream on a lifted truck. When set up right, it is like steering a race car compared to a shopping cart.

 

[Sharecropper]

You will notice that under hard braking or hitting uneven bumps in the road like the breakdown lane that the truck tends to steer itself. This happens when the front axle moves rapidly, the short draglink and operating angle causes it to steer without driver input. Offroad, you pretty much lose all control in the technical stuff because of the short draglink. The geometry is also hard on the steering box and frame mount. Crossover is like a big wet dream on a lifted truck. When set up right, it is like steering a race car compared to a shopping cart.

Ditto on what Skinny said above, especially the part about that Big Wet Dream.

I raised my M1028 with a 4" spring lift + 1" Zero Rates in the front, and 4" shackle flip + Zero Rates in the rear, for a total of 5" front and back. I relocated the front axle 1" forward to increase inner fender clearance and the rear axle 1-1/2" rearward to re-center the axle in the fender well (the shackle flip rotates the rear axle forward). I initially tried to get by with a drop Pitman arm and steering block, but soon abandoned this in favor of the cross-over steering due to a limited steering linkage geometry. With the drop Pitman and steering block, there was no steering whatsoever when crossing a deep ditch on an angle. The cross-over steering eliminated this issue entirely.

Hope this helps.

 

[Skinny]

A good test is to put on of your front tire's sidewall against a tall curb or something solid. Then move your wheel back and forth. Look at how much the body moves before the wheel actually deflects against the ground. The more movement, the worse your steering feel is going to be. This is just static mind you, it amplifies as you go down the road depending on how bad your steering geometry is. Of course stock push/pull geometry sucks from the factory, lifted...it is a nightmare.

Crossover with a panhard bar or I like to substitute front rubber or poly spring bushings for solid machined Delrin inserts, this will make the truck drive like a sports car. With the technology we have these days, custom steering arms and parts are not hard or expensive to find. You can really dial in a tall truck with no issues compared to 10-15 years ago where steering blocks and bent draglinks ruled the world. AAAHHHHHH!!!!

 

[Skinny]

I did a 4" lift on my truck with new springs in the front and 4" lift blocks in the back. The front have 2" aluminum spacers behind the rims. Stock steering with an adjustable drag link. The truck steers like a dream. No rubbing and smooth turns. Once I had the HMMWV tires balanced it rides really well on the highway with speed up to 65 MPH. I try not to let it go higher than that.

BTW, your truck is sweet! I really dig the small lift, HMMWV wheels, and the HMMWV tire carrier. Everything looks proportional, functional, and just is dialed in!!!

 

[Sharecropper]

I did a 4" lift on my truck with new springs in the front and 4" lift blocks in the back. The front have 2" aluminum spacers behind the rims. Stock steering with an adjustable drag link. The truck steers like a dream. No rubbing and smooth turns. Once I had the HMMWV tires balanced it rides really well on the highway with speed up to 65 MPH. I try not to let it go higher than that.

Mr Goldneagle, your truck looks fantastic. A couple questions - do I understand your post to say you used 2" spacers behind the front wheels but not behind the rear wheels? Also, what method of wheel balancing did you use?

Thanks.

 

[goldneagle]

Mr Goldneagle, your truck looks fantastic. A couple questions - do I understand your post to say you used 2" spacers behind the front wheels but not behind the rear wheels? Also, what method of wheel balancing did you use?

Thanks.

You don't have to call me Mr. Goldneagle. GE is fine for SS members. Yes I used 2" billet aluminum spacers only in the fronts. The rears don't need any spacers since they don't steer. You only need the spacers in the front so the tires don't rub when you are turning. I actually had the HMMWV tires on the rear without the lift (just can't use the 4 wheel drive) They spun balanced the wheels and added the normal weights to the edge of the rim. 2 of the wheels requires heavier weights that he dug out of the scrap bucket.

I am adding some close ups of the wheels with the weights on them.