How to remove carc

[RANDYDIRT]

Carc is some kinda tough. I've tried sanding it, and it just laughs at me. I don't want to go to the metal, just remove runs and rough spots before I repaint. Any suggestions?

 

[JCKnife]

I'm going to use a 4-1/2" grinder with a sanding wheel...I forget the brand name of the wheel but I got it at Lowes and it requires a rubber / plastic backer plate.

Like you I don't plan on removing the CARC, just smoothing.

BUT, I wonder: if I really sand and prime rusty areas, then paint over primer & CARC, will that come out OK?

 

[Floridianson]

I'm going to use a 4-1/2" grinder with a sanding wheel...I forget the brand name of the wheel but I got it at Lowes and it requires a rubber / plastic backer plate.

Like you I don't plan on removing the CARC, just smoothing.

BUT, I wonder: if I really sand and prime rusty areas, then paint over primer & CARC, will that come out OK?

OK is the question.
Here's my question. If CARC is doing what it should then nothing you put on top of it should stay that long?

 

[shannondeese]

I have about 15 gallons of CARC primer sitting around if you need some for your project PM me. It will allow you to paint over whatever and re CARC your rig.

 

[WPNS421]

We ran into the problem when paint a deuce, what we did was remove the rust and deep pit marks and then used a light finishing bondo to fill in the holes. After sanding the surface was smooth and we repainted.

 

[jimmcld]

I've found that a DA sander with 3M 50 grit paper works pretty well. You can't get it at the big box stores. They only sell the cheap stuff and it won't last a minute. The automotive paint stores carry it, but it's not cheap.

 

[BKubu]

Be careful as CARC is TOXIC...highly TOXIC! All paint is toxic to some degree, but CARC is worse. It attacks the central nervous system. Use a fresh air breathing apparatus. Yes, other paints stick to CARC. I know for a fact that Gillespie sticks to it and so does more CARC. Also, primer sticks to it. Heck, POR15 sticks to it. I once spray canned an M105A2 because, after I touched up the rust spots, it looked strange with some spots nice paint and others faded CARC. That trailer sat out in the weather for several years and the Gillespie paint never peeled off and any place that I painted first with POR15 never rusted through.

 

[50shooter]

Ditto to Bruce's comment. Anytime we had to touch something painted with CARC, we had to use full body suit w/ fresh air hose. That may have been above and beyond but the fresh air mask is a must.... that stuff is really bad for your lungs.

 

[JCKnife]

Is a "fresh air mask" different than the typical white cup-looking mask from Lowes?

 

[Stalwart]

Remove CARC with det cord . . .

My civilian '93 Hummer was factory painted with CARC, I love the stuff, almost as tough as powder paint. For small spots by hand I used a good filter face mask, no not the paper type. I agree a pressure fed respirator system is a must.

Fresh air mask gets it's air from elsewhere and the air is pressure fed to you from a safe place.

 

[AndrewH]

I have used a blaster machine "The Farrow System" A buddy of mine has the machine and it works like a Well it works realllllly well. And it uses water so the death by CARC dust is delayed......... This will go all the way to bare metal tho.

 

[tmbrwolf]

I'll add when sanding on CARC wear a good fitted respirator the dust from that stuff is BAD for ya! In the Army we were not supposed to paint more that 2 SQFT a day doing touchup's, that was being done outside with a respirator by brush, spray painting could not be done at unit level as it requires a paint booth, pressurized breathing air hood and a way to prevent the escape of fumes into the atmosphere, per the EPA. I'm not sure what the newer "water based" CARC requires as that stuff came after I retired.

 

[JCKnife]

I'll add when sanding on CARC wear a good fitted respirator the dust from that stuff is BAD for ya! In the Army we were not supposed to paint more that 2 SQFT a day doing touchup's, that was being done outside with a respirator by brush, spray painting could not be done at unit level as it requires a paint booth, pressurized breathing air hood and a way to prevent the escape of fumes into the atmosphere, per the EPA. I'm not sure what the newer "water based" CARC requires as that stuff came after I retired.

I've read some threads on here that the "bad" stuff when it comes to CARC is the SOLVENT, which is long gone by the time you sand it off. I would like to find some more evidence as to whether the danger in CARC is more in painting or in sanding.

 

[Stalwart]

The danger in CARC is BOTH in painting and sanding, the lead chromate remains in the cured product.

 

[glcaines]

Ditto!

 

[Nonotagain]

The danger in CARC is BOTH in painting and sanding, the lead chromate remains in the cured product.

There is no lead chromate in CARC paint. The specification has a requirement that this product shall not contain lead and is a test that I have to perform for compliance testing from time to time.

Back when the military changed over from enamel to CARC, the first primer system Mil-P-52192 (for use on steel) epoxy primer contained lead. This primer is/was distinguishable as it was red/brown in color.

The military cancelled that specification in the late 1990's, and went with three different primers, Mil-P-53022, Mil-P-53030 and Mil-P-23377.

The pigments in CARC are nothing special in regards to being extra toxic compared to any other polyurethane paint.

Provided that you use common sense in regards to no eating, drinking or smoking in the area where you are sanding or applying paints, wash your hands after use and limit exposure of contaminated clothing, you will be fine.

 

[Heavysteven]

I agree, everything I have read has indicated CARC is highly toxic. Good luck and be safe.

Would love to see some pictures.