How To Repair HMMWV EESS S3

[fallguy]

well everyone, I did ohm reading - everything's fine. Now, out of a sudden, the pre heat process works great, even in cold weather like today. So no more troubleshooting until then
Maybe there was a loose connection on a gp? Or everything happens by accident?
Future will show it.
How ever, thank u all!

 

[86humv]

At a minimum...add a ground wire from one of the 4 studs on the black box, then to the ground wire on the Alternator.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Fussy Hmmwv, not so smart systems gremlins. If kicking the tires and fumbling with the wires fixes it... keep the triple A card handy. I know that's not what we want to hear, but magically working again is a little spooky and it's still September.

Boo !!

CAM

 

[fallguy]

well Milcommoguy, where I usually go with the HMMWV the triple A card won't be of any help. But always starting at home
But in Germany they'd refuse answer the phone when it comes to HMMWV owners and troubleshooting on a working system seems to be spooky too.
So I'll enjoy the HMMWV as long as it starts without failure.
Additionally I take the advice from 86humv - a ground cable from the box to the alternator and keep my fingers crossed *grrrr

 

[obijohn]

well everyone, I did ohm reading - everything's fine. Now, out of a sudden, the pre heat process works great, even in cold weather like today. So no more troubleshooting until then
Maybe there was a loose connection on a gp? Or everything happens by accident?
Future will show it.
How ever, thank u all!

Usually, when you unplug a component that isn't working and you plug it in again and now it works, there was a problem with the connectors in the plug (they're not connecting). I'd work them back and forth a few times (on and off), and then put some dielectric grease in the connectors. Sounds like some corrosion got in there.

 

[fallguy]

Usually, when you unplug a component that isn't working and you plug it in again and now it works, there was a problem with the connectors in the plug (they're not connecting). I'd work them back and forth a few times (on and off), and then put some dielectric grease in the connectors. Sounds like some corrosion got in there.

Hello everybody; long time not beeing here but appearently the spooky HMMWV is working as it should be. I adjusted the charching voltage and the batteries seem to work better than before. I think this was the major point about the pre-heating process. Since the new adjustment in Dec. 2018 until yesterday there hadn't been any issue about the truck.

thanks again for your support and help
fg

 

[fallguy]

Hello everybody; long time not beeing here but appearently the spooky HMMWV is working as it should be. I adjusted the charching voltage and the batteries seem to work better than before. I think this was the major point about the pre-heating process. Since the new adjustment in Dec. 2018 until yesterday there hadn't been any issue about the truck.

thanks again for your support and help
fg

Obviously I was wrong - after all the "fixes" I had to replace the alternator regulator, the injectors, glow plugs and the smart start box (the old one was a 1985 model - 1st generation).
After more than one year of fixes and trying to debug it, I now have the privilege to ride a reliable HMMWV!
Thanx to everyone giving me ideas...

 

[TOBASH]

At work I have to service equipment with circuit boards that have been exposed to harsh environments.

I've had pretty decent success resurrecting some boards by cleaning them with Caig DeoxIT, degreasing with alcohol, and then coating them with Chemtronics Konform to protect them going forward.

You can find the DeoxIT on Amazon and Konform through either Grainger or Newark element 14.

I'm wondering if I should pull my KDS S3, open it up, and preemptively coat it....

Don’t trouble trouble, and let that sleeping tiger lie.

 

[TOM R]

So is there a thread with how to repair the S3 or the EES boxes,I have one of each both keep the solonoid on unless I shut off the switch, nothing appears damaged inside either box and I have no signs of water intrusion in the boxes, batteries are charged, even tried a new tsu since cheap

 

[Milcommoguy]

So is there a thread with how to repair the S3 or the EES boxes,I have one of each both keep the solonoid on unless I shut off the switch, nothing appears damaged inside either box and I have no signs of water intrusion in the boxes, batteries are charged, even tried a new tsu since cheap

Ditch the "BOX"and PM me at this post... Milcommoguy.

Save BIG money too, CAMO

 

[tgejesse]

Ditch the "BOX"and PM CAMO.

Save BIG money too, CAMO

Aint that the truth!!! Nothing like a CAMO box. Just days away from finishing mine!!

 

[TOM R]

Enlighten me what's a camo box

 

[tgejesse]

Enlighten me what's a camo box

PM milcommoguy and find out!

 

[TOM R]

so I now have a camo box in my truck and looking inside it and having some formal training in circuits, boards building diagnosis and repair it makes way more sense that what kds and nartron had in it, the camo box looks like what I would expect this truck to have in it

I also believe I know what killed the nartron s3 I removed, i am somehow back feeding voltage from the 60amp alternator to the harness and into the box, guessing the regulator is bad

I only discovered this after installing the camo box, had I put in a new s3 it would have likely have fried that too and the next one and the next one along with countless sets of glow plugs

 

[Action]

Isnt the 60 amp supposed to feed power thru the box?

 

[TOBASH]

Isnt the 60 amp supposed to feed power thru the box?

Yes. 60 amp is entirely through the box. 200 amp has a bypass.

 

[TOM R]

box sends power to turn on the charging

 

[jmenende]

Probably like most Humvee owners, the most likely part to fail (or to purchase with it already failed) is the PCB or Protective Control Box. And like most owners of multiple Humvees, I have a number of bad PCB's laying around. I thought it might be a good thread to discuss repair of PCB's. I have a couple that have the same issue so I will start with those. I can do circuit board repair, but not sure where to look for the problems. Hoping someone with an in depth knowledge of them will be able to chime in and help. Thanks in advance for your time. Really hoping that this is a start to an in depth PCB repair thread.

If anyone has any used PCB's (any variety) that they would like to sell, I would welcome a PM as well. I am in need of 2 of them right now.

My Two bad different PCB's (both Nartrons) that have exactly the same issue:

1. Nartron Yellow Label EESS 12469158-1:
2. Nartron Smart Start System 19207SOCN12480779:
Same Symptoms -> Lights glow plugs and wait light as normal. Wait light goes out and truck starts as it should. The Problem is that both continue to power the glow plugs until they are fried and the batteries never go to 'charge' (gauge stays in the yellow forever). After replacing the glow plugs with new, tried again, this time disconnecting the glow plug controller. Strangely, still never goes to charge while running (there must be something in the PCB that tells the alternator to begin charging?). So there are two (probably related) issues - the glow plug circuit stays on forever and the batteries never charge.

So these two Nartron PCB's are acting exactly the same. The truck starts/charges perfect when I install a known good Nartron or KDS yellow label PCB - so the truck itself and its wiring can be eliminated as the issue.

Thanks again for any advice and to develop this thread - would save a lot of PCB's from the scrap heap.

I have the exact same issue with my nartron smart start box even after new plugs. Wait light turns off and its still sending 24v to the plugs and never out of the yellow. I hear the clunk turn off when turn off the vehicle. Any suggestions?

 

[Mogman]

I have the exact same issue with my nartron smart start box even after new plugs. Wait light turns off and its still sending 24v to the plugs and never out of the yellow. I hear the clunk turn off when turn off the vehicle. Any suggestions?

Have you actually measured the voltage? there is a thing called afterglow that keeps the glow plugs warm after the wait light goes out, the meter staying in the yellow means nothing.
The "clunk" is normal that is the run solenoid dropping out.

 

[jmenende]

Have you actually measured the voltage? there is a thing called afterglow that keeps the glow plugs warm after the wait light goes out, the meter staying in the yellow means nothing.
The "clunk" is normal that is the run solenoid dropping out.

Yes, 25v idle and up to 27v running. How much time should the afterglow last? Till it reachea running temp of 180 degrees? Thanks