How to turbo a 6.2 using 6.5 parts

[T_F_E]

Here is the finished exhaust (for now)


Down pipe

Crossover

Fancy 5 inch chrome tip

The way she sits now

 

[kapnklug]

How did you move the CDR valve in front of the airfilter? Did you have to fabricate a new bracket and hoses?
I have the stock CDR off the donor 6.5 turbo, I wonder if it will work on the 6.2?
Do you have any pix of the completed engine? I'd like to see the CDR location and also curious what an "f-code" intake is.

 

[Seabee15]

I would also like to see the completed pictures.

I just got my hands on the turbo setup from a 6.5, and I'm still not to clear on the oil routing.... can anyone help?
(yes i did search this site, and 4 others)

 

[stump]

17 year old back yard mechanic. GREAT JOB. I want to add one to my truck but im afraid i would blow my head gaskets. I did turn up my fuel and added more air through the air cleaner. I think you did a great job.

 

[kapnklug]

I'm working on the same project, although I haven't installed the turbo oil lines yet, I do have the parts to look at. The supply line runs from the 1/4" pipe plug above where the oil cooler lines enter the block, to the turbo, then the return line runs down to a plate where the mechanical fuel pump usually goes. If you wanted to keep the stock pump, you'd have to make a fitting on the oil pan to connect the return. I plan to add a T-fitting and oil temp sensor between the turbo and the return line, to catch any problems early.
I too am worried about blowing head gaskets with the turbo. Anyone want to chime in about head gasket failure after recently installing a turbo? I hear 10lbs of boost is safe. Also, apparently there are thicker-than-stock head gaskets available to lower the compression after you've blown the originals.

 

[southdave]

llike Kapn said, My problem is finding a Flange for the return pipe, thinking of taping it out and using an A&N fitting

 

[kapnklug]

Here are some useful GM part #'s:
12563904 Turbo Oil return tube/hose
10149659 Turbo oil ret. plate to engine
12562378 Turbo oil Supply hose

As far as the return plate to the engine, it would be easy enough to make one, just use the stock piece as a template for 1/8" steel and weld an NPT double-female to the outside.

 

[67_C-30]

llike Kapn said, My problem is finding a Flange for the return pipe, thinking of taping it out and using an A&N fitting

Below is the way I did mine. I wanted to retain the mechanical fuel pump, and Banks wouldn't sell me one of their plates.

I ran braided stainless 6-AN from the port on the driver's side of the block under the intake and to the turbo. I'm also running a 6.5TD passenger side valve cover and CDR valve. The CDR hose plumbs into my cold air tube. I built a 4" custom down pipe for it that really frees up the exhaust. It did require running the exhause outside of the framerail though, which required modifying the pass side inner fender. It gives it mean, powerful sound, and really lets the turbo make some noise.


[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXhvZP9wryk[/media]


Our house burned in May, so I haven't kept up with pictures of the build, but when we get back, I'll take pics of the finished product.

 

[67_C-30]

I'm working on the same project, although I haven't installed the turbo oil lines yet, I do have the parts to look at. The supply line runs from the 1/4" pipe plug above where the oil cooler lines enter the block, to the turbo, then the return line runs down to a plate where the mechanical fuel pump usually goes. If you wanted to keep the stock pump, you'd have to make a fitting on the oil pan to connect the return. I plan to add a T-fitting and oil temp sensor between the turbo and the return line, to catch any problems early.
I too am worried about blowing head gaskets with the turbo. Anyone want to chime in about head gasket failure after recently installing a turbo? I hear 10lbs of boost is safe. Also, apparently there are thicker-than-stock head gaskets available to lower the compression after you've blown the originals.

I have turbo'd two 6.2's and am about to put a Banks kit on my M1009 making it my third, and I have had no problems. I would recommend investing in a set of gauges and keeping boost 10 psi or less, keep the water temp 220 or lower, and keep the EGT's 1100 degress or lower. I like to stay 1000 degrees and lower myself which usually means I "could" turn up the IP a little more than usually do. It may cost me 5-10 HP, but so far, my turbo'd 6.2's have lived long, healthy lives. I have logged thousands of miles on them, and the first one I did was pretty worn 6.2 with 188,000 miles when I turbocharged it. I sold it, running great, at 241,000 miles.

 

[67_C-30]

I should add that if anyone beats the piss out turbo'd 6.2 and thinks its going to run like a modern D-Max or Cummins, then yeah, headgaskets, along with crankshafts, pistons and even blocks are all in danger. I do work mine pretty hard, but I don't make a habit of taking off at WOT and holding it until it hits the governor in high gear. I do romp on them sometimes, but I've never abused them. As Dirty Harry said, "A man's gotta know his limitations"!

 

[johnsr]

nice now i can use that old 6.5 turbo i have been tripping over.........lol

 

[Midnight Rider]

For those of you that went with a 6.5 turbo setup on your 6.2, what did it end up costing? I had a guy today offer me a complete 6.5 turbo setup for $200. Is that reasonable? He said it works fine. If it's a good deal, I want to jump on it now.

And yes I'll be searching through some of the other posts on here as well.

 

[Stonepicker1]

For those of you that went with a 6.5 turbo setup on your 6.2, what did it end up costing? I had a guy today offer me a complete 6.5 turbo setup for $200. Is that reasonable? He said it works fine. If it's a good deal, I want to jump on it now.

And yes I'll be searching through some of the other posts on here as well.

If it the complete setup and the turbo is good.......jump on it. Great price.

 

[Midnight Rider]

I guess that begs the question then, what is a complete setup?

He didn't go into details and I had actually just got off work and was getting ready for my second job.

 

[dave wells]

im thinking about puttin turbo on my m1008 and was wondering how much power it would add and bout how much it would cost

 

[67_C-30]

I guess that begs the question then, what is a complete setup?

He didn't go into details and I had actually just got off work and was getting ready for my second job.

The complete set-up is the manifolds, turbo, crossover pipe, intake, oil return line, fuel pump plate for oil return, heat sheilds for glowplug wires, and you'll have to make a oil feed line because the 6.5TD line won't fit the 6.2 The 6.5TD fuel pump plate requires the use of an electric fuel pump, which I didn't want to do, so I welded a 90 degree piece of 3/4" steel yuning into oil pan instead.

 

[67_C-30]

im thinking about puttin turbo on my m1008 and was wondering how much power it would add and bout how much it would cost

The stock 6.5TD system adds about 60 - 70 HP and about 120 -130 TQ to a stock 6.2. It truly makes it a whole 'nother animal. You can push a little more than safely, but a lot more. 200 - 210 HP and 400 - 420 TQ is typical. The 400 ft lbs is pretty stout in these trucks with no more than they weigh. I have never seen anyone not totally happy they made the swap.

As far as price, that just depends on what you have to pay for the stuff. I have bought everything for less than $300 a couple of times.

 

[patracy]

As was previously mentioned, be careful with the boost on these engines. They come with 21.5:1 compression ratios already. If you start ramping up the boost, you'll find out in short order the engines don't like it...

 

[67_C-30]

As was previously mentioned, be careful with the boost on these engines. They come with 21.5:1 compression ratios already. If you start ramping up the boost, you'll find out in short order the engines don't like it...

No doubt. I keep mine at a max of 10 psi, but I have an EGT gauge, and at times I have to back off the throttle on a long grades. I'd probably stay at 6 or so if I did not have an EGT gauge.

 

[kapnklug]

I'm finding out pretty quickly that it's the little "nickle-n-dime" expenses that get you on a turbo project -- I bought a "complete" turbo setup on Ebay for $615 delivered to my door, that included literally every nut, bolt and washer bagged and labelled. But all the little details, like a pyrometer, boost gauge, electric fuel pump, oil supply line, DSG stud girdle, gaskets, and an aftermarket 4" exhaust system (OK not really a necessity), and I'm easily over $1K. Of course I'm not trying to do this on the cheap, I'm using top-quality throughout, and it's still way cheaper than the $2200 for a Banks setup. But at the start I thought it would be cheaper!