Hub bearing race

[Aviator85]

I'm replacing the bearings and races in my HMMWV and as I'm putting it together I notice that the input gear outer race just drops in. It doesn't seat tightly to anything. I figured once I got the cover on and tight it would keep the race from spinning with the bearing. It doesnt. Torqued to 35ft-lb w/ proper .006 end play per TM. I can see the race move as I spin the gear. Is this normal? Thanks!
-ZB

 

[Aviator85]

Any one have any input on this? Still looking for info

 

[ken]

No this is not normal. If the race spins in the bore The bore is worn from a earlier bad bearing locking up and spinning the race in the bore or you have a new race that is out of tolorence. You might need to "mike" the bore and race to see witch one is off. When looking at the bore is the surface finish smooth? Is there any lines or swirl marks in it. Also people have sanded the bore to make removing the race easier since it is in a blind hole and a slide hammer puller is needed to remove it.

 

[dilvoy]

You didn't press the inboard bearing on backwards did you? The inboard race should just be pushed in by hand after you put the spur gear, bearing assy into the hub. Then the cover with correct amount of spacers holds it all in.

 

[M543A2]

It depends on how loose the bearing is in the bore, but I had the same problem in a dozer final. The housing was very expensive, so I cleaned the bore and bearing outer race very well with solvent and used shaft locking grade of Loctite. I have not had a problem with it since.
From the Loctite specifications book for loose bearings, etc.: For loose fitting parts with between .010 and .015" gap, #638 is high strength, 5 minute fixture time, #680 is high strength, 10 minute fixture time, #635 is high strength, 1 hour fixture time. For gaps up to .010", #603 is used, will work with some oil contamination.

 

[Aviator85]

Hey every thanks for the replies. I double checked everything again and I tried multiple races and the all had the same outcome. I tried less shims. Still no change. I made sure the bearings were seated correctly and they are. On this race hole there aren't any swirls or ripples in the metal. Everything g is smooth. I hope the hub isn't toast since I'm replacing everything in it. Gears, races, and bearings. I make a quick and dirty video on whats going on.
https://youtu.be/tM_8ZST-kOE

 

[Bighorn]

This is probably not what you should do but I'll pass it along anyways.
It was quite common to find wheel hubs in my Old Willys jeeps and those of fellow jeepers, that had a spinning race.
What I and many others would do is remove the race and peen the bore of the hub with a small punch all the way around it's circumference where the race sits.
This raised the metal enough to re-create a press fit and prevented the race from spinning.
This was NOT as good as replacing the hub itself.. of course.
But it did work.
Sometimes the race stayed put.
In a few cases it was found to be spinning again at next bearing repack.
But in those days we repacked our wheel bearing quite often.

 

[M543A2]

Use the Loctite and run it. I have done it often on similar situations.

 

[dilvoy]

You need to keep to spec on the end play so make sure that is correct before anything like locktite goes off.

 

[Aviator85]

Well I got everything put back together but just said screw it about the race and left it spining... dumb.dumb.dumb. So itook her for a spin. About six miles or so. When I got back I felt the hub and didn't notice anything but then I felt the half shaft head next to the hub and it was **** hot. I'm guessing this is from the race spinning and heat transfer? I can't think of any other reason for it to be hot. Not of the others were hot

So Im gonna take it back apart and peen the bore and use loctite as a couple on here suggested unless any one else has any other ideas. Nothing like doing a project twice

 

[DatGuyC]

When I replaced the input seal on one of my hubs the shims that were on there got destroyed so I had to do a trial and error to get the correct amount of tightness in the bearings. I would drive it a little and if it got too hot then I would add a shim. Probably not the proper way to do it but its worked fine for 10k miles. I also recall that when I removed the retainer I could move the race a bit so mine might be just as loose as yours, but I wasn't really paying attention to it.

 

[Aviator85]

Im still procrastinating on the loctite and peening. I guess the thing that makes my head hurt it how can there be .006" of end play if the race is a drive in fit? That means that when you pryed up on the input gear you wouldn't be able to get the end play you needed and the shims wouldn't do any good. Since the race would sandwich the gear and bearings too tight. Maybe I'm thinking too much into this.

I took Temps of the hubs and shafts after a short drive.
Ambient 90°f

All other hubs measures near input gear
100-105°f
Head of half shafts
110°

Hub that I replace everything on
110°f near input gear on hub
Head of half shafts
135°f

This was after about a 20 min drive at around 45mph

Spinning race? Too many shims? Not enough? My end play when assembling was between .001 and .006

Or I could be whining about it too much and just need to drive it

 

[dilvoy]

The inboard race is not a press fit like the outboard one is.