Humvee Body Lift

[sail78385]

Can someone give me a lesson on Body Lifts for Humvees? Specifically a M1123 model? I'm looking at what's available online and Im gravitating to the steel brackets. I'm just not sure exactly how you deal with the steering column and what else needs to be moved and adjusted.

This is the kit on eBay I stumbled onto... Has anyone used it?

HUMVEE 2.5 INCH BODY LIFT KIT HUMMER H1 / BODY MOUNT STYLE | eBay

Raw Steel.

www.ebay.com

 

[Anvil Motorworks]

We manufacture body lifts for both H1 and Humvee applications, even REVs. I will say that there are a few variables to consider when looking at these kits. For instance if you are using the factory style standard bumper with the three holes vs a winch plate you’ll need different brackets or blocks to raise the hood. Also I see a lot of these guys cut corners and just provide a fuel strap extension. We provide you with all new fuel straps the ensure your tank is secure and doesn’t swing. Also we don’t give you just a rubber block between the fuel tank and body, we provide a corrosion resistant aluminum block. Also, for the rear brackets, we designed our kit to raise the bumper with the body. This eliminates the ugly gap that you would otherwise get from just a body lift. In fact we are the only manufacturer that has been able to design a kit for the H1 that also retains the factory hitch so if you ever wanted to add a factory hitch all you would need is to purchase a few brackets and hardware from us. As for the steering shaft setup there are plenty of people that offer closeout panels for the different angle. RubberDuck4x4 has one and ModMafia does as well. If you go 3” you’ll also need to buy one of their shifter extension kits.

You can also message me directly if you have additional questions.

 

[Mogman]

Replacing all the frame mounts is a CONSIDERABLE amount of work with blood letting and money but that is certainly an option, I did a 2" lift for under $100,
I used this guys pucks,

Mikellis body lifts

Nissan body lifts and accessories

www.mikellisbodylifts.com

You will need to drop the fuel tank the same amount as your lift, I used a couple pieces of 2" square steel tubing and extended the mounting straps myself.
With any lift 2" or more you will need to drop the boot where the steering shaft goes through the body.
I did this by making a simple filler plate for the old hole and lowering the hole and the boot, you can also see the 2" puck on the body mount
I also use 2 square tubing to raise the front of the hood.

 

[Anvil Motorworks]

Replacing all the frame mounts is a CONSIDERABLE amount of work with blood letting and money but that is certainly an option, I did a 2" lift for under $100,
I used this guys pucks,

Mikellis body lifts

Nissan body lifts and accessories

www.mikellisbodylifts.com

You will need to drop the fuel tank the same amount as your lift, I used a couple pieces of 2" square steel tubing and extended the mounting straps myself.
With any lift 2" or more you will need to drop the boot where the steering shaft goes through the body.
I did this by making a simple filler plate for the old hole and lowering the hole and the boot, you can also see the 2" puck on the body mount
I also use 2 square tubing to raise the front of the hood.
View attachment 933114

Spacers are definitely a cheap option but realistically it will cost you more than $100. You’ll need to source longer grade 8 bolts for all body mount locations and you’ll also need hardware for the hood lift. Tank strap can be extended if you can weld but if not you’ll need to source, which btw we offer by themself with hardware. As for the steering shaft, for you can get a closeout panel precision cut for the boot. That’s a pretty good deal and means a lot less time trying to fabricate. Also if you have a brushguard, replacing the front brackets will raise the brushguard with the body unlike blocks. The caveat to that is certain bumpers won’t work with new brackets. Lastly, the rear gap between the bumper and body. With a spacer lift you’ll have a gap no doubt. It’s an aesthetic thing so for some not a big deal but for others not so much. You can always make a closeout panel to hide the gap, but again, more fabricating.

 

[sail78385]

Can anyone tell me what the round pucks are for on this style of body lift?

 

[Anvil Motorworks]

It’s for the A Pillar. You can’t replace the mounts there since they are welded so you have to use blocks with longer bolts. Also need to be mindful of what front bumper you have because if it’s the standard bumper with the three holes you can’t use the new front brackets, must use hood spacers to lift the hood.

H1 Body Lift Kit w/ Hitch | Anvil Motorworks

We are excited to bring forth the industry's first and only solution for those Hummer H1 owners looking to retain their OEM hitch while doing a 2-3" body lift. Unlike other lift kits that require you to purchase their aftermarket hitch, we've designed all new rear bumper brackets and hitch...

www.anvilmotorworks.com

 

[sail78385]

It’s for the A Pillar. You can’t replace the mounts there since they are welded so you have to use blocks with longer bolts. Also need to be mindful of what front bumper you have because if it’s the standard bumper with the three holes you can’t use the new front brackets, must use hood spacers to lift the hood.

H1 Body Lift Kit w/ Hitch | Anvil Motorworks

We are excited to bring forth the industry's first and only solution for those Hummer H1 owners looking to retain their OEM hitch while doing a 2-3" body lift. Unlike other lift kits that require you to purchase their aftermarket hitch, we've designed all new rear bumper brackets and hitch...

www.anvilmotorworks.com

Thanks for that, researching this stuff is tough. This isn't standard bumper is it?

 

[Anvil Motorworks]

Thanks for that, researching this stuff is tough. This isn't standard bumper is it?
View attachment 937320

Nope you have the winch front bumper so you should be able to use the front brackets which will lift the hood up in place of having to do spacers. Keep in mind if the winch plate you have mounts to the out hood brackets it will lift the winch bumper as well. Also if you plan to use the winch setup, you probably want to stick with front spacers because if you move the bumper up it’ll move the mounting points of the winch up as well.

 

[sail78385]

so how are people mounting these fuel tank blocks?

 

[Anvil Motorworks]

so how are people mounting these fuel tank blocks?

View attachment 937575

Technically you don’t have to mount them since they will be clamped between the body and fuel tank. However if it were me I’d either attach them to the tank or drill a couple of holes so that you can use a screw to go into the body. You can recess the screw head by just drilling a second hole enough for the head to fit into.

What are you doing for the fuel tank straps? Your factory ones will have to be extended or you can purchase new ones the correct size.

Fuel Tank Lift Kit | Anvil Motorworks

When doing a body lift it is necessary to keep the fuel tank in the same location. This requires extended fuel tank straps and adding spacers between the tank and the body for correct alignment. Without the correct alignment, interference with the driveshaft and fuel tank can lead to costly...

www.anvilmotorworks.com

 

[sail78385]

Thanks for the tips dude. Should be a cake walk now… also makes a lot more sense now that the tank is out