Humvee Sound Heat Insulation

[ikoinu]

Just wanted to continue a conversation about insulating the Humvee interior without continuing to hijack a seat thread.

From Tangdiver:
http://shop.800nonoise.com/Floormats-10-Roll-F0001.htm

My question is, for the price $200+, how far does this roll get you? Just center tunnel, firewall too, whole truck (minus rear bed)?

 

[ken]

You can also try header wrap on the exhaust. IMHO it helps with both heat and noise in the cab.

 

[NormB]

You can also try header wrap on the exhaust. IMHO it helps with both heat and noise in the cab.

I bought two rolls of lava glass fiber and wrapped from the headers to tailpipe extension. Made a YUGE difference in sound and heat.

Trick to applying it I found was to do it in 3” ace-wrap lengths or shorter. A whole lot easier than threading the entire roll around the pipes - which is impossible anyway. Make sure you buy some extra stainless steel ties and figure out how to cinch them up ahead of time. Oh, and gloves, long sleeves, dust mast and eye protection.

 

[ken]

I used bailing wire from tractor's supply. So I can remove it if I need to work on it. I used 1 inch wide for the headers and 2 inch wide for the Y-pipe. Then 2 inch wide to just past the T-case. The dog house is way cooler to me. I removed the headers and Y-pipe to install it. That way I could do a better job.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I've always been told not to wrap headers and exhaust, needs heat dissipation...

 

[NormB]

I’ve heard both sides from many different sources. My sister and brother in law race corvettes, vipers, lambourghinis and several other exotic cars (they’re getting one of the first ten Dodge Demons shortly) - the sponsor an annual toys for tots run on Florida’s I-95 (I think) w/ Lambos upwards of 150+ mph w/ police/helicopter coverage - and have owned several Humvees (one, an original H1 slant back - commercial - has over a quarter million miles on it), they’re big on wrapping exhaust pipes. Something about increasing the velocity of the exhaust as it doesn’t cool as much, scavenging and removing exhaust gases - HOT gases - reducing soot, etc. I’ll have to bring it up w/ them again. Seemed to make sense to me.

If I were doing mud runs I probably wouldn’t have done that but it makes sense for an around-town ride. May rethink this when I move it to the farm in a few years.

One of those things like zinc additives, synthetic vs. 15w-40 oils and many other “what works best” topics, I guess.

 

[ryanruck]

Just wanted to continue a conversation about insulating the Humvee interior without continuing to hijack a seat thread.

From Tangdiver:
http://shop.800nonoise.com/Floormats-10-Roll-F0001.htm

My question is, for the price $200+, how far does this roll get you? Just center tunnel, firewall too, whole truck (minus rear bed)?

I can't speak to that exact product but, I have bought from db Engineering before and they're very easy to deal with. You might want to give them a call and speak with them to see what they think. They are apparently the ones that supply the OEM floor matting. They may even have precut sets for HMMWVs that they don't have listed online. I don't know since I decided not to go with that matting in my truck but it couldn't hurt to ask.

I did buy some of their X-135 weather strip for my door openings and, so far, it seems to seal all the gaps with my soft doors well and its adhesive sticks great. Haven't had a chance to give it a wet weather test yet.

I'm also planning on picking up some of their 1" reinforced Mylar insulation with butyl rubber inset layer to line my firewall and drivetrain tunnel when I do my 6.5T/4L80E swap. Might pick up some more after the swap to do the underside of my hood too but the firewall and tunnel is the priority.

 

[Action]

Does the mud stick to and dry over the wrsp after you go offroading? I am sure the exptic car owners cant answer that.

 

[Tangdiver]

Just wanted to continue a conversation about insulating the Humvee interior without continuing to hijack a seat thread.

From Tangdiver:
http://shop.800nonoise.com/Floormats-10-Roll-F0001.htm

My question is, for the price $200+, how far does this roll get you? Just center tunnel, firewall too, whole truck (minus rear bed)?

4.5' wide and 10 long. Also sell in 20' long roll.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

 

[ken]

Does the mud stick to and dry over the wrsp after you go offroading? I am sure the exptic car owners cant answer that.

Yes east Texas mud sticks to everything.

 

[NormB]

Does the mud stick to and dry over the wrsp after you go offroading? I am sure the exptic car owners cant answer that.

I’m sure it will but I’m not doing any offroading nor planning on it. I AM going to weld up a lunette ring to a disc harrow so ‘s I can drag it behind the humvee in a few years on my farm. Field can get pretty muddy, I’m sure I’ll be looking for a car wash that’ll handle the truck or buy one of those rolling sprayers or something.

https://smile.amazon.com/16-Underca...96839&sr=8-5&keywords=automotive+spray+washer

I DO have a right-angle wand for my pressure washer now but it’s getting harder to crawl around under the thing [arthritis].

 

[patracy]

I can't speak to that exact product but, I have bought from db Engineering before and they're very easy to deal with. You might want to give them a call and speak with them to see what they think. They are apparently the ones that supply the OEM floor matting. They may even have precut sets for HMMWVs that they don't have listed online. I don't know since I decided not to go with that matting in my truck but it couldn't hurt to ask.

I did buy some of their X-135 weather strip for my door openings and, so far, it seems to seal all the gaps with my soft doors well and its adhesive sticks great. Haven't had a chance to give it a wet weather test yet.

I'm also planning on picking up some of their 1" reinforced Mylar insulation with butyl rubber inset layer to line my firewall and drivetrain tunnel when I do my 6.5T/4L80E swap. Might pick up some more after the swap to do the underside of my hood too but the firewall and tunnel is the priority.

I'm converting mine to a slantback right now and I'm concerned about the "echo chamber" I'm making. This is exactly what I'm looking for. Guess I'll try to reach out to them to see what they have for the HMMWV.

 

[JoeJrTheBarber]

I bought two rolls of lava glass fiber and wrapped from the headers to tailpipe extension. Made a YUGE difference in sound and heat.

Trick to applying it I found was to do it in 3” ace-wrap lengths or shorter. A whole lot easier than threading the entire roll around the pipes - which is impossible anyway. Make sure you buy some extra stainless steel ties and figure out how to cinch them up ahead of time. Oh, and gloves, long sleeves, dust mast and eye protection.

Try soaking the wrap in water before you wrap the pipe (old motorcycle trick).
Makes more of a mess but keeps the fiberglass in the bucket of water and not in your skin / in the air.
Plus with the wrap wet you can pull / get a tighter wrap around the pipe.

And the whole idea of wrapping the exhaust is to help keep the heat "in" the pipe and not have it dissipate thru the actual pipe itself. This in theory makes the
exhaust more productive of getting thr exhaust gasses out of the motor and out of the system which is said to make more power.
A modern version of wrapping exhaust is ceramic coating (Which most good powdercoat shops now offer). U wanna get crazy, have your headers and exhaust ceramic coated and THEN
wrap them as some turbo setup drag racers do. Pipes stay cool to the touch if done right..

 

[ryanruck]

I'm converting mine to a slantback right now and I'm concerned about the "echo chamber" I'm making. This is exactly what I'm looking for. Guess I'll try to reach out to them to see what they have for the HMMWV.

I've got a box with a 20' roll of their 1" reinforced Mylar insulation standing by for when I do my swap in the next several weeks (and a roll of their 2" edge seal tape). It's pretty high quality stuff. I opted to go with the non-butyl insulation since it was available in a 20' roll and would give me better coverage for a better price. I figured my Lizard Skin thermal and sound insulation in the tub makes up for it (you might want to check into that too, member jake-cutter has done his slantback with it and can fill you in).

I would also take a look at their headliner material as well since you'll be running a hard top. I've got a sample of it from a product sample package they sent me and it's pretty nice stuff.

Just a word of warning, their shipping is really high for some reason. Was about $75 to ship the 20' roll from TX to me in OH.

 

[JoeJrTheBarber]

My plan for the inside of the cab is:
1. Undercoating (spray can)
2. Dynamat sound insulation
3. Military green grip tape (like they use on top of skateboards).
Simple, fast, works (had a buddy do the same in his Jeep CJ7) and a **** of allot cheaper then what these places above are charging for their
products.

 

[dhaumann69166]

Have you looked into Lizard Skin or Al’s HNR or similar products? I know the Lizard Skin works great for interiors. I have seen it used on lots of hot rods and show cars. One coat is ceramacoat and takes care of heat, next layer is the sound deadener and then top coat. You can get about any color top coat. Rolls on or brush on and it looks good and hold up good. For the price per square foot I prefer the liquid stuff over Dynamat.

 

[Karl kostman]

I dont know much about your vehicle but on my deuce I liberally utilized FATMAT under the floors and between the floor and trans top. That not only reduced the noise but also the heat coming into the cab. Then I rhino lined all the floors and up to where the cabtop attaches on the back and up to the top of the floor board sections in the front. This made enough of a difference to where people can comfortably talk in the cab while going down the highway now, very big improvement!
Karl

 

[patracy]

I've got a box with a 20' roll of their 1" reinforced Mylar insulation standing by for when I do my swap in the next several weeks (and a roll of their 2" edge seal tape). It's pretty high quality stuff. I opted to go with the non-butyl insulation since it was available in a 20' roll and would give me better coverage for a better price. I figured my Lizard Skin thermal and sound insulation in the tub makes up for it (you might want to check into that too, member jake-cutter has done his slantback with it and can fill you in).

I would also take a look at their headliner material as well since you'll be running a hard top. I've got a sample of it from a product sample package they sent me and it's pretty nice stuff.

Just a word of warning, their shipping is really high for some reason. Was about $75 to ship the 20' roll from TX to me in OH.

Looks like what I need. But I'm gonna have to save up some coin first. Ouch!

 

[Hummer Guy]

I know its a dead thread but I find no point of starting a new one since this is here, where did you guys insulate to lower heat and sound? I've done the inside driver compartment, but I didn't do the rear, I just put a thick rubber mat in the back. I'm thinking about doing the firewall and MAYBE the hood, but I don't want to increase the engine temperature since these engines are known to run hot in the rear cylinders. While the insulation inside helps big time, It seems like the best places to really reduce sound and heat would be the firewall and the transmission tunnel (Transmission tunnel is probably impossible to insulate without dropping the trans)

My next area would be the doors, I have them sealed up, but I would do the insulation next on them, I really want to insulate it well enough where my electric A/C unit can easily keep the inside cool at 100 degrees.

 

[TOBASH]

I bought two rolls of lava glass fiber and wrapped from the headers to tailpipe extension. Made a YUGE difference in sound and heat.

Trick to applying it I found was to do it in 3” ace-wrap lengths or shorter. A whole lot easier than threading the entire roll around the pipes - which is impossible anyway. Make sure you buy some extra stainless steel ties and figure out how to cinch them up ahead of time. Oh, and gloves, long sleeves, dust mast and eye protection.

Miss seeing NormB!!!