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Hybred Hand Throttle Cruise Control...

linx310

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I ordered a Vernier type hand throttle cable today. It is the kind that you can pull out or twist for fine adjustment and when you press the center red button it releases.

What I am going to try to do is drill a hole through the out side part of handle casing and run a second cable through the center of the red release button. On the end of the cable will be a crimp and spring.

This second cable will be routed under the dash and connected to the brake pedal.

When the brake pedal is pressed it pulls the cable which pulls the red button releasing the hand throttle. I am going to try and attach the second cable's housing to the handle you pull. This way pulling the throttle out doesn't pull the brake cable.

Any one ever seen some thing like this?
 

doghead

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Just put a brick on the pedal.
 

Barrman

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As I wrote in the thread Joe linked to. The hand throttle is pretty high maintenance for on the road use. Great for leg/foot relief while on a constant slope up, down or flat. Not much use in rolling terrain.

I did use it a good bit this winter. The truck would warm up enough to let the fast idle click off, but not enough to defrost the window or heat up the interior. 2 clicks up and the window would be clear 5 minutes after start up. That is about 1100 rpm according to my tach.

I like the look of the big green T handle that says THROTTLE on it inside the truck. I got a vernier type from Chris when him and Rich were here a few months ago. I will install it some time and post up if it is actually usable on the road.
 

Barrman

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I drove the M1009 last night to Scouts and got to thinking about your idea of hooking the brakes to the hand throttle. I hate to say this, but I don't think it will work.

Brake pedal stroke length changes with how much pressure you apply to the pedal, the adjustment of the rear shoes and if your hydroboost is charged or not. Hand throttle pull out changes with speed, terrain and load. To make any connections to the brake pedal, you have to allow for engine off, hydroboost dead full push emergency stops. What if you loose a rear piston or front caliper? Now, you are having to pump all the way to the floor to stop the vehicle.

The hand throttle needs very little movement to do its job. Mine has 1 to 1-1/2 clicks just to take up slack. 2 clicks from all the way in is about 1100 rpm without the transmisison in gear. About 900 rpm in gear. 3 clicks will hold 50 mph or so on flat ground and 4 clicks will hold near 70 mph. Total movement for normal driving is less than 3/4 of an inch. Brake pedal movement can be up to 6 inches or more.

Now, a bell crank could be used to even up the travel distances. But, some kind of break away would still be needed in my opinion. I feel safe using the hand throttle to hold speed because I have left it out and pushed the brakes. The brakes win at the low power settings I use the thing on. Holding 10 clicks out to pull a high drag, high weight trailer up a hill and then trying to stop going down the other side of the hill with the throttle out probably will have me being the first person on the scene of the crash.

Not trying to be negative, but if you are looking for on road cruise control, buy one of the kits available for civilian trucks and don't kill yourself trying to re invent the wheel. You will probably be time, money and frustration ahead.

Now, if all you want is idle control and occasional on road leg relief. The vernier adjustable cable is way better than the click type M35 throttle cable I used.
 
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