Hydraulic Hose Reel

[glcaines]

I decided to try out some of the hydraulic tools that came with my FLU, namely the jack hammer. I have to drive about a half mile down a gravel / dirt road to get to my property. I live in the Blue Ridge Mountains and there is a lot of rock everywhere, including the road. There are some very large rocks sticking up in the road around 3 X 4 feet and sticking up around 7 - 8 inches. I tore the oil pain out of my 2003 VW Jetta diesel a couple of years ago and it cost me ~$700.00 for repairs. I plan to try and break the rocks up with the jack hammer. If that doesn't work, I'll use the drill and dynamite. However, the hydraulic hose reel is giving me problems. It is very stiff when unwinding and pulling out the hose. To re-wind the hose, I have to manually turn the reel by hand. I know that the reel is supposed to self-rewind by springs in the mechanism. Has anyone dismantled their hose reel due to a similar issue?

Another issue I'm having is with the female hydraulic coupler on one of the lines. After connecting it to a male coupler, it no longer seals when disconnected and I have to connect it to the other hydraulic line with the male coupler. I made a huge mess on the driveway when several gallons of oil spilled, which didn't make my wife happy. I now have two new brass Parker couplers as replacements once I figure out how to remove the old couplers. I've used wrenches with 3-foot long pipes for leverage and still couldn't break either of the old couplers loose. I might try heat next, but I don't want to risk damaging the hydraulic hoses, which are in relatively good condition. I contacted Parker Technical Service and they recommended beating on the old connectors with a hammer and then trying again.

 

[Mullaney]

I decided to try out some of the hydraulic tools that came with my FLU, namely the jack hammer. I have to drive about a half mile down a gravel / dirt road to get to my property. I live in the Blue Ridge Mountains and there is a lot of rock everywhere, including the road. There are some very large rocks sticking up in the road around 3 X 4 feet and sticking up around 7 - 8 inches. I tore the oil pain out of my 2003 VW Jetta diesel a couple of years ago and it cost me ~$700.00 for repairs. I plan to try and break the rocks up with the jack hammer. If that doesn't work, I'll use the drill and dynamite. However, the hydraulic hose reel is giving me problems. It is very stiff when unwinding and pulling out the hose. To re-wind the hose, I have to manually turn the reel by hand. I'm assuming here that the reel is supposed to self-rewind by springs in the mechanism? Has anyone dismantled their hose reel due to a similar issue?

Another issue I'm having is with the female hydraulic coupler on one of the lines. After connecting it to a male coupler, it no longer seals when disconnected and I have to connect it to the other hydraulic line with the male coupler. I made a huge mess on the driveway when several gallons of oil spilled, which didn't make my wife happy. I now have two new brass Parker couplers as replacements once I figure out how to remove the old couplers. I've used wrenches with 3-foot long pipes for leverage and still couldn't break either of the old couplers loose. I might try heat next, but I don't want to risk damaging the hydraulic hoses, which are in relatively good condition. I contacted Parker Technical Service and they recommended beating on the old connectors with a hammer and then trying again.

.
I am definitely interested in the operation a Hose Reel.
I don't know anything other than my desire to have one on my M1089 for portable tools.
Hoping to learn along with you...

 

[glcaines]

After reading the TM, I found that the hydraulic hose reel is a U.S. manufactured Hannay N-617-19-20C.SR. This model is not listed specifically on the Hannay website, but they do sell a new reel labeled N-617-19-20-10.5J. They go for ~$600.00 new with ~$200.00 shipping. I found several sources for them new, including on Ebay. I e-mailed Hannay to find out the difference between the two, but for that money I intend to rebuild what I have. I plan on removing my hose reel and completely cleaning and lubricating everything. I believe the rewind spring must be broken. The original Hannay hose reel is still apparently fully supported with parts availability.

Edit: I received a reply from Hannay on the N-617-19-20-10.5J hose reel. It is a direct replacement for the original, the only difference being a much stronger return spring for the reel.

 

[royalflush55]

I decided to try out some of the hydraulic tools that came with my FLU, namely the jack hammer. I have to drive about a half mile down a gravel / dirt road to get to my property. I live in the Blue Ridge Mountains and there is a lot of rock everywhere, including the road. There are some very large rocks sticking up in the road around 3 X 4 feet and sticking up around 7 - 8 inches. I tore the oil pain out of my 2003 VW Jetta diesel a couple of years ago and it cost me ~$700.00 for repairs. I plan to try and break the rocks up with the jack hammer. If that doesn't work, I'll use the drill and dynamite. However, the hydraulic hose reel is giving me problems. It is very stiff when unwinding and pulling out the hose. To re-wind the hose, I have to manually turn the reel by hand. I know that the reel is supposed to self-rewind by springs in the mechanism. Has anyone dismantled their hose reel due to a similar issue?

Another issue I'm having is with the female hydraulic coupler on one of the lines. After connecting it to a male coupler, it no longer seals when disconnected and I have to connect it to the other hydraulic line with the male coupler. I made a huge mess on the driveway when several gallons of oil spilled, which didn't make my wife happy. I now have two new brass Parker couplers as replacements once I figure out how to remove the old couplers. I've used wrenches with 3-foot long pipes for leverage and still couldn't break either of the old couplers loose. I might try heat next, but I don't want to risk damaging the hydraulic hoses, which are in relatively good condition. I contacted Parker Technical Service and they recommended beating on the old connectors with a hammer and then trying again.

Go to John Deere and get a can of multi purpose spray lube and soak those fittings several times. This product is a penetrating and lubricating oil combined. It costs about $8 for a tall can. I use it on the farm all the time.

 

[glcaines]

Good news update! While forcing the reel to unwind so that I could clean the hydraulic hoses and interior of the reel, which was covered with grease and dirt. When I had the reel almost completely unwound, I heard a very loud pop/clang from the spring area. At first I thought that I had broken the spring, but then I discovered that the reel now works perfectly. It now unwinds and rewinds the way it should. I wish more of my problems fixed themselves like that.

 

[Mullaney]

Good news update! While forcing the reel to unwind so that I could clean the hydraulic hoses and interior of the reel, which was covered with grease and dirt. When I had the reel almost completely unwound, I heard a very loud pop/clang from the spring area. At first I thought that I had broken the spring, but then I discovered that the reel now works perfectly. It now unwinds and rewinds the way it should. I wish more of my problems fixed themselves like that.

.
Definitely!

More often than not, loud noises on my projects generally don't fix much of anything.
Other than my wallet . . .

 

[glcaines]

I finally got the hydraulic couplers loose from the hydraulic hose. I had to use 5 foot cheater bars on the wrenches for both fittings. Once they broke loose, they both unscrewed by hand. I was really afraid something was going to break with that much force. The good news is that the new couplers work perfectly and don't leak any fluid. I haven't tried the jack hammer or drill yet, but I did run the chain saw and it worked perfectly. I did put a new Oregon bar and chain on it previously. I'll try the drill and jack hammer next, but I'm sure they will work based on the condition. One was new when I received the FLU and the other looks almost new. The chain saw has obviously seen a significant amount of use, but fortunately works well.

 

[royalflush55]

I finally got the hydraulic couplers loose from the hydraulic hose. I had to use 5 foot cheater bars on the wrenches for both fittings. Once they broke loose, they both unscrewed by hand. I was really afraid something was going to break with that much force. The good news is that the new couplers work perfectly and don't leak any fluid. I haven't tried the jack hammer or drill yet, but I did run the chain saw and it worked perfectly. I did put a new Oregon bar and chain on it previously. I'll try the drill and jack hammer next, but I'm sure they will work based on the condition. One was new when I received the FLU and the other looks almost new. The chain saw has obviously seen a significant amount of use, but fortunately works well.

What kind of wrenches you got that stand up to 5 foot cheater pipes?

 

[glcaines]

What kind of wrenches you got that stand up to 5 foot cheater pipes?

One was a long Proto adjustable wrench and the other was a Ridgid pipe wrench. I started with the Proto adjustable wrench and a Craftsman open-end wrench, but the Craftsman wrench failed. The crazy thing is that the Ridgid pipe wrench I used was an old pipe wrench with a lot of wear on the teeth and it was only about 10 inches long and the jaws were very narrow. I would have bet money it was going to break, but it didn't. Those old Ridge pipe wrenches were made well.