Hydraulic Tank for winch issue... H2O... :(

[Hoxman]

Help....

I took the Deuce out and when I got on seen (mud/swamp water hole), and checked the reservoir for the winch (big tank on the driver's side front next to the winch), the fluid was normal and at a good level.

I hooked up the winch and pulled his swamp truck out and then hooked up a tow sling and pulled him backwards through the holes... When I got home, I checked the fluid and it was milky...
I have water in the tank..

I am going to drain the fluid out but what other steps do I need to do to make sure the lines and system is ok??

Where do I get and how much fluid do I need for it? I need to know which TM the info is in too... I don;t want rust forming...
Is there some standard hydraulic fluid I need or is it a special fluid...?

Help... again?

Thanks!

 

[Hoxman]

P.S....

I think the gasket (cork, all flattened out) is bad on the lid to the reservoir... Any suggestions on replacement.... or other lid to buy for it?

Thanks!

 

[73m819]

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[glcaines]

I would recommend flushing the system using the drain and fill method several tmes to make sure you get the water out. Then change the filter. The correct filter for your winch is a FleetGuard HF6710. I found an NOS filter on Ebay real cheap. I've already purged the motor oil from my Allison with great results. I also plan to change out the motor oil from my winch hydraulic system and replace it with John Deere HyGard hydraulic fluid, but I haven't done so yet. If you want to switch to hydraulic fluid in your winch, this may be a good time.

 

[seabeeut]

Be sure what ever fluid you chose is correct for the system you put it in.
All fluids are not ment for all systems.

 

[Hoxman]

I have already downloaded all of the manuals from jatonka..
they are all numbers (Greek to me)... Which TM do I need to review to fix this?

Also, I just found the wire-wrapped black hose that goes from the passenger side intake or exhaust port and runs along the firewall and then goes through the fender to the driver side wheel well and attaches to a Y-fitting with a double hose is torn about 6 inches before it goes into the Y-fitting on the single hose side... I used duct tape to hold it back together... I can't figure out what would have made it tear, other than old age, but I need a replacement.... Any idea on TM for this or part number to replace??

 

[Hoxman]

So, are you saying that the winch fluid is regular 15W40 oil? like the engine uses?

 

[glcaines]

I have already downloaded all of the manuals from jatonka..
they are all numbers (Greek to me)... Which TM do I need to review to fix this?

Also, I just found the wire-wrapped black hose that goes from the passenger side intake or exhaust port and runs along the firewall and then goes through the fender to the driver side wheel well and attaches to a Y-fitting with a double hose is torn about 6 inches before it goes into the Y-fitting on the single hose side... I used duct tape to hold it back together... I can't figure out what would have made it tear, other than old age, but I need a replacement.... Any idea on TM for this or part number to replace??

What you are talking about is a classic cra* design on the A3. The two hoses that come from the air actuator go into the Y-fitting. This is bled into the semi-rigid wire-wrapped black hose you mentioned. Every time you turn the steering wheel, the wire-wrapped hose is flexed, but this type of hose is not designed to be flexed. Very quickly, the hose is trashed. This is a very poor design and I have never seen an A3 where this hose wasn't trashed. To remediate the problem, remove the Y-fitting and cut the large black hose back to where there is good solid hose, and where the Y-fitting can be securely clamped after re-inserting the Y-fitting and where it can absolutely not move. Then cut each of the braid cover air hoses from the actuator back to where the hoses are good quality. Insert a piece of copper tubing into the ends of each air hose to couple the hoses to new lengths of flexible rubber tubing that will now connect to the Y-fitting. Make sure that there is sufficient length of rubber hose to permit easy flexing as the steering wheel is turned, but where the tubing does not rub on anything that will wear a hole in the tubing. It is best to jack up the entire front end of the truck to allow free movement and observation of the rubber hoses as the wheel is turned lock to lock.

Also, as part of good PM, this is a good opportunity to put one or two squirts of air tool oil into the input side of the actuator. This will lubricate the actuator and continue down to lubricate the main cylinder as well.

 

[glcaines]

So, are you saying that the winch fluid is regular 15W40 oil? like the engine uses?

Correct. The winch uses motor oil.

 

[Hoxman]

Thanks for the great info.!!!
Any recommendations for where to get the tubing.. And any suggestions for fixing the winch reservoir cap/gasket??

 

[glcaines]

You can get the tubing at at auto parts store. I haven't looked at the cap on my winch reservoir, but if it is a flat piece of cork, you can buy small pieces of flat cork gasket at many auto parts stores. You can then cut out a new gasket to match the old one.

 

[Hoxman]

Thank you all!

I am now looking forward to my next weekend project on the Deuce..

This is one Heck of a learning curve..