Hydro-Max Brake Assist *pics added* (long read)

[rustystud]

Also wondering about any updates and part number list? Awesome read, how would one go about integrating the air brakes for a trailer using a system like this?

It would be very complicated and in my opinion not even worth it. Stay with the air system if you need to tow military trailers.

 

[Jeepsinker]

I agree. The old system isn't that bad if you keep up with the maintenance.

 

[welldigger]

I agree. The old system isn't that bad if you keep up with the maintenance.

You ever driven a truck with bosch hydro-max? The deuce brakes don't hold a candle to it.

Unfortunately there isn't a good way to use it with military trailers.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Driven a CJ7 on one tons an 40" swamper boggers with hydroboost. I know it is a better system completely, my point was just that the factory brakes aren't that bad when maintained properly and when you upgrade to stainless braided flex hoses.

 

[welldigger]

Driven a CJ7 on one tons an 40" swamper boggers with hydroboost. I know it is a better system completely, my point was just that the factory brakes aren't that bad when maintained properly and when you upgrade to stainless braided flex hoses.

No the deuce brakes aren't bad. I don't have a particular dislike of them.

But I do see the appeal of hydro-max. On a class 6 or 7 truck it's amazing how they stop like a car. Relatively speaking.

In fact in the long run such a conversion will end up being cheaper as airpacks become ever more obsolete.

 

[Section8]

To each their own.
Some may prefer the original set up of air over hydraulic, while others want strait juice, or full air.
I am going the route of the Hydro-max due to parts availability and not having to chase air leaks when they occur. Plus getting rid of the low air buzzer will be a bonus. No wait to build pressure before driving.
The Hydro-max also has the electric back up in the event the truck dies. Secondary braking ability is always a good thing before the panic emergency brake drum gets burned off.
The availability of parts for these systems will be way easier since they are still used. Mine came out of a 96 international 1800.
Some may say, yea wait for the bill of a part, I say, yea I got the part hope you can find yours in a couple more years.

 

[welldigger]

To each their own.
Some may prefer the original set up of air over hydraulic, while others want strait juice, or full air.
I am going the route of the Hydro-max due to parts availability and not having to chase air leaks when they occur. Plus getting rid of the low air buzzer will be a bonus. No wait to build pressure before driving.
The Hydro-max also has the electric back up in the event the truck dies. Secondary braking ability is always a good thing before the panic emergency brake drum gets burned off.
The availability of parts for these systems will be way easier since they are still used. Mine came out of a 96 international 1800.
Some may say, yea wait for the bill of a part, I say, yea I got the part hope you can find yours in a couple more years.

As long as you can get a cheap core the rebuilt units aren't too bad. In my experience they are quite durable.

 

[Jeepsinker]

These trucks are a 67 year old design, and you can still get nos American made airpacks. Yes they are getting quite pricey and harder to come by, but the Koreans are still using and making them too. When a replacement Korean airpack gets up to $1000, then I'll start considering other options. I want my truck to stay 98% stock. Ok, maybe 95%..

 

[welldigger]

These trucks are a 67 year old design, and you can still get nos American made airpacks. Yes they are getting quite pricey and harder to come by, but the Koreans are still using and making them too. When a replacement Korean airpack gets up to $1000, then I'll start considering other options. I want my truck to stay 98% stock. Ok, maybe 95%..

Different strokes for different folks. Some like as oe as possible.

I'm of the mindset if I can make it perform better I'm all for it.

If I had the money to drop a lly duramax and allison in my truck I'd do it in a heartbeat. Computerized injection and timing systems don't scare me in the least bit. Hydro-max is just another improvement in my book. Especially knowing how hard I run a truck I find the weak points in a truck real fast.

Or another example people might find odd is I'm not a fan at all of stainless braided flex lines on an off road vehicle. No point in them. In fact mud can get under the braid and wear a hole in the brake line. Custom u.s. made rubber lines is my preferred route.

But this is me and how I like to do things. It's not for everyone.

 

[rustystud]

Or another example people might find odd is I'm not a fan at all of stainless braided flex lines on an off road vehicle. No point in them. In fact mud can get under the braid and wear a hole in the brake line. Custom u.s. made rubber lines is my preferred route.

But this is me and how I like to do things. It's not for everyone.

That is why you go with the poly coated stainless steel lines. I do agree the Hydro-boost brakes are nice. I've worked on all the types of brakes out there and everyone has their issues. Personally I have had really good "air-pacs" and don't foresee any problem using them for the next decade or two. I also have had trouble with the Hydro-boost brakes and yes they can get pricey fast. If I could afford it I would go with a total air system. Much more dependable then any "juice" system out there for trucks. Maybe that's why the trucking and bussing world only uses air systems . For now though my air over hydraulic system will work just fine, that is until I drop that 600HP Cummins into it !!!

 

[Jeepsinker]

I wish there was an easy air brake conversion for the deuces. If there was, I would jump on it. The experimental XM- whatever it was 2.5 ton trucks had full air brakes and lockers, so obviously it can be done. Maybe someday the member here that bought that one a while back will post some pics and info about how they were set up. We could probably figure out how to do it from that. It can't be overly complicated.

I seem to remember from the pics posted at the time that it used the small brake pots like the ones on the front of the 939 series trucks.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Even if we could just fit the air actuated park brake assembly from a 939 truck onto a deuce, that would be a massive improvement. It might actually stop the truck in an emergency.

 

[red]

I wish there was an easy air brake conversion for the deuces. If there was, I would jump on it. The experimental XM- whatever it was 2.5 ton trucks had full air brakes and lockers, so obviously it can be done. Maybe someday the member here that bought that one a while back will post some pics and info about how they were set up. We could probably figure out how to do it from that. It can't be overly complicated.

I think using the air brake parts from a lighter duty tag axle on a dump truck would be the closest option. 6 lug, similar width/size. Cost is the factor, when I priced it out was looking at about a grand per axle, all new parts

 

[bachman502]

Subscribed

 

[Heath_h49008]

Since this eliminates the airpack is there any way adapt it to work the M105A2 trailer brakes?

Yep... and it would solve any concerns about volume or pressure to the rears.

Leave an airpack in the truck, run a line to it. The airpack is what controls the gladhands.

 

[gentrysgarage]

Leave an airpack in the truck, run a line to it. The airpack is what controls the gladhands.

Here I was trying to figure out some kind of switch on the pedal for trailer braking....so simple Thanks!

PS Tim at Precision Brake is real busy and had promised a master made up for me, called weekly to check progress, I gave up after a month.....

 

[rustystud]

Yep... and it would solve any concerns about volume or pressure to the rears.

Leave an airpack in the truck, run a line to it. The airpack is what controls the gladhands.

If you had all air brakes on the deuce then there would be no need for the air-pac at all since the M105 trailer uses air pressure to apply the brake cylinder anyway. All you would need is a standard "R-14" air valve.

 

[gentrysgarage]

HiYa Rusty and all,
I researched the R-14 hoping it would lead me to a lighter option that the air pack and I think the easiest option for me would be a Hydraulically piloted air valve, but aside from a mention here and there I have found no part numbers or full discription...do you guys have any leads?
Thanks

 

[rustystud]

HiYa Rusty and all,
I researched the R-14 hoping it would lead me to a lighter option that the air pack and I think the easiest option for me would be a Hydraulically piloted air valve, but aside from a mention here and there I have found no part numbers or full discription...do you guys have any leads?
Thanks

I was referring to an all "air" brake system. I have never seen one on a deuce though. So it was a hypothetical answer. The "R-14" valve is used on all air brake systems to regulate the air to the different axles or trailers. I actually added one to my deuce since I'm taking my air supply for my M105 trailer from my rear aux air tank. This way I eliminate the "time" lag between applying the brakes to the actual application of the brakes.
So what are you actually doing for your brakes ? Are you trying to go all air ?

 

[gimpyrobb]

If you had all air brakes on the deuce then there would be no need for the air-pac at all since the M105 trailer uses air pressure to apply the brake cylinder anyway. All you would need is a standard "R-14" air valve.

AHhhh, but it uses the air to push a diaphragm that actuates a master cyl. The m105 has juice brakes