Hydro-Pneumatic Bed Crane

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Now for warning, I see your ball valves in the last pic's, know that these valves aren't designed for finite control. Also that pneumatics differ greatly in power to pressure to work than hydraulics. Hydraulic is linear in nature, pneumatics are exponential in nature. They go from very little motion to ripping the doors off very rapidly.

Thanks for the good post.

I wasn't planning on throttling with those valves, because they are cheap valves, which is why I set the orifice so that operation is very slow. That way the valves are open or closed and also that non-linear movement I will have will be less of an issue.

 

[southbreeze]

I didn't pay enough attention to your post on that statement.....sorry. But spot on idea with the orifice, 'specially if a newb is on the controls!

Cruise on brother and keep a bind on 'em.

Cheers,
Breeze

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Hay you made good points, and I can't take credit for the flow control orifice. That was on there when i got it.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Well I sold my 3 piece canvas cargo cover and got a vinyl camo cover and SURPRISE, my canvas cover was an extended height cover, at least 8" taller than my new cover, so now my bed crane won't fit under the cover by about 5" BUT I have a plan!

The bed crane has a 2-5/16" diameter 14" long shaft that sits in the base. It can lift right out once a small keeper piece is unbolted.

I'm going to drill a hole in the bed floor and underneath weld a 12" long 2-3/8" ID piece of pipe I have in a strong corner of the bed frame there near the tail gate on the driver side. Then I will be able to just drop the bed crane down in that hole and lift it out when i don't need it.

It looks like it will be plenty solid in that corner where the bed frame pieces cross and are welded together.

It will shorten the bed crane about 14" and the hook will be even with the bed floor. It should make the max height of the hook 59" which will be perfect.

Also I might have a lead on a thin roller thrust bearing that could be the perfect size to put under the base and it comes with it's own self aligning races.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Got it installed today! I'm really happy with it so far.

It lifted my 250 lb or so father with 120 psi shop air without even a hint of strain so next I will try it with a full barrel of oil and see how well it works.

Just needs some paint!

 

[caliber1]

Nice job!! Where did you find the thrust bearing?

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

I knew someone was going to ask that right away!

I can't say where I got it, how much it costs, or what a part number is. It's one of those things I wish I could share but I can't.

 

[gimpyrobb]

You ought to run a piece of steel across that Z metal that the mud flap braces attach to. Should make the mount MUCH stronger.

 

[Jakob]

You ought to run a piece of steel across that Z metal that the mud flap braces attach to. Should make the mount MUCH stronger.

I was going to say the same thing. The whole setup looks awesome, but the bottom of that tube needs some bracing IMO.

 

[Odyssey M]

I was going to say the same thing. The whole setup looks awesome, but the bottom of that tube needs some bracing IMO.

Long term/heavy loads may stress the current configuration. Nice job. I wish I had one.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

I really thought about adding more bracing, but the top of the tube is **** near FULLY welded through 3/4" of material. There is the bed floor, the fender support, and then the 1/2" thick piece of plate I put up in there that the tube passes through the middle of. The 1/2" plate is welded to the rear bed crossmember.

I'm going to be keeping a close eye on it, but at this time, I don't think it needs anything else.

I was on the motorcycle all day, riding down through West Virginia and see he sights or else I would have it painted and plumbed.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Got another question for ya, it seems as if the "mast" is solid round? If so, what diameter?

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

The mast that is the base? I believe it is 2-1/2" diameter.

I used the bed crane for a few lifts and the hydraulic cylinder started leaking so I took it down and it is going in for new seals and maybe a new can tomorrow at a friend's hydraulic shop.

It didn't have enough power to lift an entire drum of oil alone, So I ended up cutting a piece to brace the lift in the fully up position and I used a chain fall from the hook.

Nothing broke!

 

[gimpyrobb]

The upright that everything is attached to.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

The post at the base that everything is hinging on is about 2-1/2" I think.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Thank you.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

Results!

Lifting a full drum of oil, with the arm in the shortest position, with the truck's air supply alone does not work.

Wedging a 2x4 next to the cylinder to lock the arm in the highest position and using a hoist from the hook does get a full drum of oil into the bed.

This was all done very carefully, keeping people clear of the line of fire and such.

I had the cylinder rebuilt with no seals and a hone job because it was bleeding off, and I hoped that would get me some more power, but no luck.

It still works great for moving smaller amounts of oil and other things without having to drag out a hoist.

When I had that full drum load on the crane it really made the truck squat. I'm going to put a piece of tube that slides over the crane's shaft tube that protrudes from the bottom of the truck bed. Then in the bottom of that tube I will insert a scaffold jack and this will take the load off the truck. I won't have to worry about it kicking out because it will be aligned with the tube welded to the truck floor.

Pic from the Butler, PA Bantam Fest.