Hydroboost Repair-Leak Fluid Drivers Side Floor

[cucvrus]

If it were me I would buy the rebuilt hydraboost and the rebuilt master cylinder and when you have it apart spend $100. more and replace the calipers and rear wheel cylinders. Thats just me. Then you have all the brake components covered. I do it on every CUCV and enjoy years of trouble fre servise. And I have a lifetime warranty. Use DOT 5 Brake fluid. Don't forget.

 

[TedO]

If it were me I would buy the rebuilt hydraboost and the rebuilt master cylinder and when you have it apart spend $100. more and replace the calipers and rear wheel cylinders. Thats just me. Then you have all the brake components covered. I do it on every CUCV and enjoy years of trouble fre servise. And I have a lifetime warranty. Use DOT 5 Brake fluid. Don't forget.

Thats good advice. Thanks.

 

[cucvrus]

May I recommend a mity vac brake bleeder. It will save a lot of time and makes bleeding the brakes a breeze. Also can be used to check for fuel leaks.

 

[86m1028]

Does anyone know the differences in the 2 units ?
Seems odd that they would be different but guessing maybe it's a stroke length difference.
I havent looked but are the master cylinders different as well ?

 

[cucvrus]

I never seen the difference in the units. But yes the master cylinder is different from the M1009 to the M1008/10/28.

 

[TGP (IL)]

Does anyone know the differences in the 2 units ?
Seems odd that they would be different but guessing maybe it's a stroke length difference.
I havent looked but are the master cylinders different as well ?

If your refereeing to the hydro-boost unit the difference is in the plumbing connections.
One has American threads (early 73-78?)
The rest (later 79-on) has metric threads.
TGP

 

[86m1028]

If your refereeing to the hydro-boost unit the difference is in the plumbing connections.
One has American threads (early 73-78?)
The rest (later 79-on) has metric threads.
TGP

I knew about the flare & oring differences but I'm asking about the m1009 vs the rest of the Cucv models.

 

[cucvrus]

I never seen any difference and have used NOS ones on whatever CUCV. I am still driving them.

 

[86m1028]

I never seen any difference and have used NOS ones on whatever CUCV. I am still driving them.

Same here.
I have swapped from 1028 to 1009 & vise versa.
Never had an issues, just wondering what's different

 

[TedO]

I did this repair 3 times on my 1009.
First two times I got a rebuilt hydroboost. The piston that the brake pedal push rod pushes in was plastic(not sure on the technical name for this). It failed within a week both times.
The third time a got a new one and the piston was metal. No more problems.

Mr. Tedo for #1 refer to the TM. #2 is my bit here, rebuild at your own risk.

#3. My new hydroboost came with the backing plate. Was no need to remove it

I got a hydraboost 527307 from NAPA. No backing plate came with it. I have to take apart the old one. It also doersnt appear to have the rubber gasket.

 

[cucvrus]

Are you referring to the rubber gasket between the plate and the firewall? Or the rubber boot on the rod? Either way they are not needed. Most of the remanufactured ones come without the plate/boot and you must change it. And on another note. I really feel sorry that everything some guys buy used or remanufactured is not good enough. I go that way first all the time. Used if available in my collection or the local YOUPULLIT and remanufactured if it is not. New is price scary and many times no better then used. I have good running reliable CUCV equipment. Turn keys everyone of them.

 

[TedO]

Are you referring to the rubber gasket between the plate and the firewall? Or the rubber boot on the rod? Either way they are not needed. Most of the remanufactured ones come without the plate/boot and you must change it. And on another note. I really feel sorry that everything some guys buy used or remanufactured is not good enough. I go that way first all the time. Used if available in my collection or the local YOUPULLIT and remanufactured if it is not. New is price scary and many times no better then used. I have good running reliable CUCV equipment. Turn keys everyone of them.

Between the plate and the firewall. I was concerned that that is where it is leaking. Do you reuse the old one? I am worried that I am going to get into this and not be able to get that funny nut off to switch the plate.

 

[cucvrus]

Worst case scenario use a hammer and punch and remove the nut. It is very easily removed. Just assure you have it tight before you reinstall it. none of that rubber is needed. You can do it. you have been doing great so far. Don't let this stump you. A big big adjustable wrench will work also.

 

[TedO]

Worst case scenario use a hammer and punch and remove the nut. It is very easily removed. Just assure you have it tight before you reinstall it. none of that rubber is needed. You can do it. you have been doing great so far. Don't let this Thanks. I should have it covered then. Plan to do it on Sunday.stump you. A big big adjustable wrench will work also.

Thanks. I should have it covered then. Plan to do it on Sunday.

 

[TedO]

I am finding it very difficult to access the two nuts on the firewall, behind the steering wheel/column. I tried dropping the steering column, but that doesn't really help. Do I need to pull out the dash to get in there?

 

[TedO]

May I recommend a mity vac brake bleeder. It will save a lot of time and makes bleeding the brakes a breeze. Also can be used to check for fuel leaks.

which mity vac do you use?

 

[cucvrus]

TedO you will need a swivel socket. I have an impact 15mm ball swivel semi deep Snap-on socket. Works perfect. A long extension also and an impact is helpful. I hope that helps. Keep me posted. I just got called away and I made a few errors in my post. I edited it.

 

[TedO]

TedO you will need a swivel socket. I have an impact 15mm ball swivel semi deep Snap-on socket. Works perfect. A long extension also and an impact is helpful. I hope that helps. Keep me posted. I just got called away and I made a few errors in my post. I edited it.

I got everything apart and off the truck. Thats where the trouble starts. These rebuilt hydraboosts ask you to take out the star shaped retainer that is holding in the spring tensioned plunger. You are supposed to transfer this to the new unit. Taking it out wasnt to hard. After I got it out, I was looking at that plunger. Its like 30 year old paper thin brittle piece of plastic. I am thinking if I drop it it will probably crack. Putting the plunger into the new unit, it is difficult to get that star shaped retainer in. As I was trying to push it in the hole, my fingers slipped and it shot across the room. (guess thats why they say to wear eye protection). Needless to say, the plastic part of the plunger is now in a million pieces. At least I can take the rebuilt unit back to NAPA, but now I am out of luck. I guess I either have to buy a new one, or get lucky in a junk yard. The new units are really quite expensive. But my understanding is with the new unit, you dont have to swap plungers, mounting plates, etc. Any better course to take? Does anybody sell hydraboost parts? Needless to say my truck wont be moving for a while.

 

[cucvrus]

Send me a picture or a description of what piece you are referring to. I can send one to you. I never had any issues that I can remember changing one of these units. I do know that you must use the plunger on most rebuilds. I used to have new ones but they are long gone. Just look at the 20P manual and tell me what part you are missing. I hope that helps. Or send me a ticket and I can come out and change it for you next week.

 

[TedO]

Send me a picture or a description of what piece you are referring to. I can send one to you. I never had any issues that I can remember changing one of these units. I do know that you must use the plunger on most rebuilds. I used to have new ones but they are long gone. Just look at the 20P manual and tell me what part you are missing. I hope that helps. Or send me a ticket and I can come out and change it for you next week.

Thanks for the offer. I could buy a ticket, considering the cost of the brand new, assembled hydraboosts I saw at $500. This piston or plunger thing is what connects between the hydraboost and the master cylinder. I have been looking at it, and I have concluded that plastic oiece on the end of the plunger or piston, not sure what it is called, was put there just for assembly purposes, so that rod doesnt fall out before it is bolted on to the master cylinder. I dont think it really serves any other purpose. I transferred the spring and the star shaped retainer to the new unit, and I will put the rod back in right before I bolt it on. I think I am still good.