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I am looking into removing the govenor!

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,315
113
Location
Schertz TX
you can add a pyrometer before the turbo. Then you can turn up the fuel. It should be OK at 1100 degrees EGT. But don't expect it to go howling up the hill, it's not made for it. If you want that, you need a different engine and it is probably less expensive to put a dodge cummins pickup motor in there than try to re-engineer the multifuel. BTW the transmission is also a weak link for hot rodders.

Assuming the turbo is the weak link. Which is isn't. Get a 5 ton injection pump.
 

1stDeuce

Member
349
15
18
Location
Farmington, NM
Don't let everyone discourage you... My M35 with a recent new engine is way down on power compared to some... I have a pyro and a boost guage and I'm going to start turning up the fuel and watching EGT's. If yours is set a bit cool to begin with, you might be able to get a noticably more power without going over EGT's, assuming you have a turbo truck... Even with a bit too much turning up, it's good for short bursts of power, and then you have to back off... Watch the EGT's like a hawk!!

Do a search for turning up power in hotrodding section... It's not the governor you want, it's the fuel screw... The governor just keeps the engine from going overspeed... has nothing to do with power, just protection against block ventilation.

One of the other things against the mult is that it makes good torque at much lower RPM than road speed dictates... The gearing was meant to keep it in it's sweet spot at about 45mph I think... 55mph is one mph away from max rated speed for the engine, and torque has fallen off compared to 1800RPM or so...

That said, if I lived at 5000'+ and wanted to pull 55mph on a 6-7% grade in a 13,500 lb truck, I'd look for a Cummins or a CAT backed by an Allison to get the job done... (can you say A3??)
C
 

TigerHawk

New member
79
0
0
Location
Small Town USA
Great! Keep going guys! I would like to here everything thats out there. I've been a mechanic and many other things for well over 30 years! That does not mean I have all the answers. I'm new...ish to the military tweaks. There is always the person who did something remarkable! We all need to know this person. As I get older my ego takes a back seat and all I want to do is learn from the experts. Time is getting short!

Cheers..
 

Crackerjax

New member
176
0
0
Location
Fuquay, North Carolina
its all there in the hot rod section with pics and all the wastegate is an internal one cant adjust it that i know of i say turn up the fuel a little if all else fails you could gt you an engine out of an sr-71 and strap it to the bed...but you might need a bigger fuel tank...50 gal most likely wont even start that motor.. anywho good luck enjoy the ride everyone gos threw life too fast anyway i enjoy the slowride....
 

Beerslayer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,054
55
48
Location
Tualatin, Oregon
+1

Please spend a couple of days reading the hot rodding section and you will find the answers you want on getting more HP. It is all there.
 

mudguppy

New member
1,587
15
0
Location
duncan, sc
if you are willing to commit, here's what you'd need to do:
  • balanced bottom end
  • main girdle
  • fluid damper
  • lower compression ratio to around 17:1
  • custom pistons and connecting rods
  • install larger head studs, increase installation torque
  • modify injection pump
  • larger or sequential turbo setup (wastegated)
now, you do all this, the injection pump will be the dog. sure, it'll deliver enough fuel to give you high EGT's, but the fuel delivery isn't the greatest. if it were me and i went this far, i'd also:
  • EDM some 5 ton injectors
  • install bosch P7100 injection pump with AFC housing
  • bench flowed w/ 12mm plungers and barrels (no need for 13's)
  • mack plug and "tuned"
  • match injector pop-off pressures
  • 20 - 22° static timing advance
this setup should give you way more [controllable] fueling potential for 500+ hp at less than 3000 rpm. driveability would also be greatly increased by using the more advanced IP with AFC.

the biggest hold up will be the custom piston and con-rod design and manufacture. everything else should be straight forward.

oh, and then you'll definitely need to find a new tranny. i'd plan on a single countershaft eaton / fuller 6 - 9 speed OD.
 

saddamsnightmare

Well-known member
3,618
80
48
Location
Abilene, Texas
August 21st, 2009.

TigerHawk:

Old man, if you wanted performance, you bought the wrong truck. If you wanted speed, you bought the wrong truck. The deuce uses a conservatively designed long stroke heavy diesel engine....it will do almost anything but take abuse. The problem you are having is in the engine design, transmission and final gearing... This truck will climb any wall you want it to, but at its own designed speed.:-D When a multifuel comes apart from over speed, the results are rather dramatic and there are a few of us on here that wouldn't mind the video, as long as someone else is buying the engine.
I don't know if the M35A3's with the Cummins or the Caterpillers are any more forgiving....
Just leave early and count the pull can tabs at the side of the road going up.... consider it a benefit of the design and the era of the truck...:twisted:
I had a 1951 Ford F6 dump truck, and it could do a 9% grade at about 22 MPH empty and about 12 MPH loaded, same reason.... it's all in the gears and the engine.... but that truck, like my 1971 M35A2 is still going, when many faster and newer trucks are not.

Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan:-D

N.B. The deuces in the woods of West Virginia do a lot less then 12 MPH on 12% grades, and some of ours are four miles long, so just get used to the design, or sell the truck and get an 800 or 900 like the Army uses today. You'll get up the hill faster then 12mph, and your wallet won't be such a bother to carry around either, because you won't have much money in there to spend either....!
 
Last edited:

Barrman

Well-known member
5,204
1,666
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
The M35A2 for the most part had the LDT version of the engine. The 5 ton had the LDS version of the same engine. More power! Go to the manual section, download the LDS tuneup manual. That manual has all the adjustments needed to get these things to fine tune. If you still don't have enough power, sell you engine as a complete running unit to somebody that will use and love it. Swap in a LDT so you can keep the multifuel part and enjoy. If that isn't enough, sell that engine and swap in what ever you want with a different transmission.

As has been pointed out in just about every post. These trucks were designed to haul 2-1/2 tons of cargo off road at low speeds and 5 tons of cargo on road up to 45 mph. They do that better than just about anything out there almost 60 years since the first Gasser engined versions first started getting built. Once you learn to live with that idea, these trucks grow in value and use.
 
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