I get the flu on Wednesday

[Mittzlepick]

Lines were crossed one problem solved. Changed fuel filters. Bit of rust normal? Had to prime up with filters loose as the bleeders were frozen and pliered to death. Figure the hole in the hood was for easy filter swap out in the field.i cant have the only victim of this quick access hole

 

[Mittzlepick]

Any reason for all the wiring black only?

 

[peakbagger]

No good reason for all black wiring that I can find out. But they went ahead and did it anyhow. I assume you found the white numbers near each connection? Be careful cleaning the numbers of off as in some cases I rubbed them right off trying to get them clean. I got real good doing that when I went through my wiring woes. I resorted to using electrical contact cleaner to loosen the grease but even then it required guess work. I think I saw somewhere (possibly EI) a color coded replacement harness.

That is the first hole in the hood I have seen. No doubt someone had vacuum leaks in the fuel system and they cut the hatch to bleed the system. Many of the auction SEEs didnt come with a hood. Vons Mogs sells a fiberglass one that reportedly will fit. You can switch your hardware but someone without a hood would need to buy latch hardware from EI and the funky tool to turn it (the other end of the tool is for the battery box cover)

BTW, the injection pump is lubricated by the diesel fuel running through the pump, if the engine doesnt start quickly dont just keep cranking it hoping it will run. Mine would not start in the spring unless I hooked up my boat tank rig. I mentioned it to the Unimog pro I talk to on occasion and he suggested that just getting the air out of the fuel filters is not enough. The fuel can bleed down out of the pump. I have the new style Bosch bleeder pump (if you dont have one, get one) . He told me to pump that pump many times until I hear a distinct noise from the IP pump which indicates its fully full of fuel and relieving fuel back to the tank. This needs to be done in a quiet area but when I pumped it about 50 times I heard a click combined with a wheeze that I guess is relief valve opening. It started right up for the first time when I did that this past spring. I also use heavy doses of injection cleaner into the tank but he told me when he buys and imports them from the auctions in Europe that the first thing he does is drain and cleans the fuel filters and fills them up with Stanadyne injector cleaner and then primes the engine to break loose the crud in the fuel injector. I didnt do it last year but considering do it this season.

 

[The FLU farm]

Had to prime up with filters loose as the bleeders were frozen and pliered to death. Figure the hole in the hood was for easy filter swap out in the field.i cant have the only victim of this quick access hole

I can't imagine trying to change the filters through that hole. Not when it's relatively easy to slide the hood out of the way. But bleeding, yes.

Had one filter housing with a broken off bleeder screw. Drilled and tapped for larger ones, but haven't put that one back in service yet.
It was quicker to replace it with one of the $35 housings (with filters) that were for sale for a while.

 

[Mittzlepick]

Changed the diff oil today. Front and rear with cheapo for a "flush" shit it was like gravy in front. Magnets not loaded up. I was told by ed sanders his unit had "pockling oil" not a flu but some euro army unit. Is this a us gov thing as well? The tail ebd of the drain was like fast molasses front and rear. Going for the transmission next when i figure out where the refills are unless its a standpipe. In the midst of 27 different things along with a charitable tragedy assistance project. If heavens gates aren't open when i go I'll need the unimog to push, pull, dig, cut hammer em open.

 

[Mittzlepick]

No good reason for all black wiring that I can find out. But they went ahead and did it anyhow. I assume you found the white numbers near each connection? Be careful cleaning the numbers of off as in some cases I rubbed them right off trying to get them clean. I got real good doing that when I went through my wiring woes. I resorted to using electrical contact cleaner to loosen the grease but even then it required guess work. I think I saw somewhere (possibly EI) a color coded replacement harness.

That is the first hole in the hood I have seen. No doubt someone had vacuum leaks in the fuel system and they cut the hatch to bleed the system. Many of the auction SEEs didnt come with a hood. Vons Mogs sells a fiberglass one that reportedly will fit. You can switch your hardware but someone without a hood would need to buy latch hardware from EI and the funky tool to turn it (the other end of the tool is for the battery box cover)

BTW, the injection pump is lubricated by the diesel fuel running through the pump, if the engine doesnt start quickly dont just keep cranking it hoping it will run. Mine would not start in the spring unless I hooked up my boat tank rig. I mentioned it to the Unimog pro I talk to on occasion and he suggested that just getting the air out of the fuel filters is not enough. The fuel can bleed down out of the pump. I have the new style Bosch bleeder pump (if you dont have one, get one) . He told me to pump that pump many times until I hear a distinct noise from the IP pump which indicates its fully full of fuel and relieving fuel back to the tank. This needs to be done in a quiet area but when I pumped it about 50 times I heard a click combined with a wheeze that I guess is relief valve opening. It started right up for the first time when I did that this past spring. I also use heavy doses of injection cleaner into the tank but he told me when he buys and imports them from the auctions in Europe that the first thing he does is drain and cleans the fuel filters and fills them up with Stanadyne injector cleaner and then primes the engine to break loose the crud in the fuel injector. I didnt do it last year but considering do it this season.

Only peaked through the air vent at the copper. I hope to cut and patch the ratsaster in there. At least i only need one color for repair. Hoping i can get at these by the engine bay? Since the dash seems welded in/on. My next focus is hydraulic cylinder repacking and the gear split functionality

 

[peakbagger]

In order to get to the wiring behind the dash, you need to get at it from the front of the vehicle. The air intake ducts need to be removed along with the fragile defroster ducts. Its also helps to flop the fuse block forward.

 

[Speedwoble]

Changed the diff oil today. Front and rear with cheapo for a "flush" shit it was like gravy in front. Magnets not loaded up. I was told by ed sanders his unit had "pockling oil" not a flu but some euro army unit. Is this a us gov thing as well? The tail ebd of the drain was like fast molasses front and rear. Going for the transmission next when i figure out where the refills are unless its a standpipe. In the midst of 27 different things along with a charitable tragedy assistance project. If heavens gates aren't open when i go I'll need the unimog to push, pull, dig, cut hammer em open.

Did you do the portals as well? 6 total places to drain and refill on the axles. Also, lube the lockers while you are at it. Lastly, though the military used the same gear oil for the transmission and the axles, it is advised to use a synchro safe gear oil in the Transmission. Generally that means GL4 as opposed to GL5. Personally I use Syntrans.

 

[peakbagger]

The GL4 issue is important. GL5 eats sychros. GL5 is better for the front and rear end but keep it out of the transmission. Many owners and parts people get confused and just use a GL5 with a GL4 rating on the transmission. Synchros wearing out is usually a long term mileage related thing so I expect most SEE folks never see it.

BTW Toyotas have/had the same limitation so it my be be worth looking for Toyota spec GL4. I use Red Line Synthetic. I believe Amsoil also had a GL4 variation.

 

[Mittzlepick]

Portals and trans are next. Putting cheap gl 4 in trans ans 5 in portals and going to do a hot lap around the block and do it all again. Ed sanders amsoil guy in nh says severe gear is what he uses in his. He drives his all around nh to pa last he brings it to motorsport events its a great conversation starter. Anyway its a gl5 , he said its good stuff and expects my use would never get the trans hot enough to make it an issue with the bronze.

 

[Mittzlepick]

Does anyone have civilian part numbers for the bucket seals? Fox machine near me will match up for me but numbers will save me 2 hrs of driving. Nsn 4320-01-240-85-02 for the boom and 9c03053 (catipiller#)per expidition imports and doesn't stock the tilt seals so it seems.

 

[Speedwoble]

Does anyone have civilian part numbers for the bucket seals? Fox machine near me will match up for me but numbers will save me 2 hrs of driving. Nsn 4320-01-240-85-02 for the boom and 9c03053 (catipiller#)per expidition imports and doesn't stock the tilt seals so it seems.

Did you look in the parts manual? Right next to the NSN is the civilian part number.

 

[Mittzlepick]

Did you look in the parts manual? Right next to the NSN is the civilian part number.

Just got the manual or one of them thanks for info.