• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

I have been advised to bypass Slave Plug resistor on firewall behind shroud

Riverbend

New member
19
0
0
Location
Cumming, Ga.
Before I jump into this, I would like other opinions onnit being a necessary mod or not, and if possible pictures of the steps to take to avoid trashing something I shouldn'd.
I am New to diesels and still rahter timid at attempting work never done or sure about proper steps. I know there are many experts gere and if someone would help this butterfly(pun intended) become a diesel dragon, it will be greatly appreciated.
I'd rather now damage my new to me M1009 which seems to be in great shape to me.CUCV FRONT.jpgCUCV REAR.jpg
 

319

Lieutenant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,350
50
48
Location
Michigan
That resistor is for the glow plugs. There is no resistor for the slave plug. Unless you're having issues, leave everything as is.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,014
1,814
113
Location
GA Mountains
I can see how someone would have related the resistor with the slave. Here's what you have. I can't explain how it works as I'm electrically ignorant. The resistor on the firewall steps 24V down to 12V to operate the glow plugs. If 1 glow plug fails, it increases the juice to the other glowplugs and the start failing in short order. The more that fail, the higher the juice and the shorter the remaining ones last. The military did it this way so that even with dead batteries, it could be slave started. Moving the source of power off the resistor and to the 12V side of the harness eliminates the possible overcurrent but limits the slave starting when the batteries are really low. At least that's how it has been explained to me!
 

ralbelt

Active member
1,056
9
38
Location
West Warwick, R.I.
Thats the way I understand it. Bypassed mine a few years back, it takes an extra 15-20 seconds for the wait light to go off but all works well.
 

scottladdy

Member
538
8
18
Location
CT
Glow Plug Resistor Bypass

Very sweet ride. Want to sell it? :-D

I recommend the bypass for civilian use. You can read a lot about the pros and cons if you search the CUCV forum. But, in short the military had to compromise on the design (what design isn't a set of compromises?) in order to allow a truck that might need to be started in a hurry to be jumped from a 24V NATO standard source. As was mentioned above, each GP that fails (they all eventually do) causes an increase in circuit voltage as the total load on the circuit is reduced. This causes the remaining GP's to see increased voltage, which is likely to hasten their demise.

If you do decide to perform the bypass, make sure to disconnect the negative cables on both batteries before starting work. Start with the front battery as that one is grounded to the vehicle frame. This is a must for pretty much all electrical repair work.

Some suggestions:
It is up to you as to whether or not you leave the resistor in place on the firewall. I chose to remove mine, and have them in storage in case I ever sell them to a "collector" that wants original. Keeping them in storage should slow down any further physical deterioration of the resistors. It also allowed me to treat the small amount of rust on the firewall while it was still surface rust.

If you leave the resistor mounted, I recommend removing the feed wire on the passenger side which connects to the 24 V buss. The feed wires are connected to the resistor by a very small stud/nut that can be removed. Some folks just cut the wire.

You can utilize the wire on the output side of the resistor. It should already be connected to the top of the relay. If you remove it from the resistor it is just the right size to connect up to the smaller stud on the diamond shaped junction just above the relay. This junction block is your 12 volt feed for the bulk of the truck. It is connected electrically to the positive terminal of the front battery, but physically to the negative terminal of the rear and passes through a fusible link running along the firewall.

While you are at it, clean ALL connections you can. Coat them with a small amount of dielectric grease to help reduce future corrosion. Make certain to clean as many grounds as you can!

Be prepared to replace the Glow Plug relay after the bypass. It seems fairly common that an old relay that has switched 24 volts cannot pass 12 volts well. My theory is that 24 volts causes increased arcing of the relay contacts. This creates additional deposits on the contacts which 24 volts can overcome.

Please let us know what you decide to do and how it turns out.
 

Vhyle

New member
181
1
0
Location
Clarksville, TN
Another thing to keep in mind... once you perform the mod, you may have a hard time starting the truck, because of corrosion and again the glow plug relay. With the resistor still operational, the current coming from the 24v side is enough to overcome this corrosion in the GP relay, making the truck able to start. Changing the relay's power source to 12v may not provide enough current to overcome this corrosion, so then the plugs won't get hot enough, and your truck will just turn over and over.

Best thing to do here is to replace the GP relay as well. NAPA's p/n is ST85, and they are readily available for a low cost. You CAN break open the relay and clean it yourself, if you choose to go that route. A quick search on the forums will lead you to some good instructions on doing so.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,168
113
Location
NY
Please read the other members posts before posting repeat information.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
486
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Sweet ride...welcome to SS!

Post up photos of your rig too!

The design isn't a compromise, it could have been solved using 24v glow plugs but that is another conversation. Unless you plan on running your rig with a military convoy and forsee dead batteries in your future, bypass that thing!
 

Riverbend

New member
19
0
0
Location
Cumming, Ga.
Skinny, I appreciate your help deciding

CUCV FRONT.jpgCUCV REAR.jpgOK, would you tell me what I need to do, can't afford a mistake.
I appreciate your help..
Here is my cute puppy:tank:
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,168
113
Location
NY
Has it occured to you that you are not the first person to ask this or want to do this modification?

Have you searched at all?
 

Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,818
952
113
Location
Paris KY
I have bypassed my GP resistor.

Here's a few related questions, the answers for which are definitely not in the TM's. And yes, Mr. Doghead, I have searched and searched and searched to no avail.

Now that I do not have the resistor, does my slave port still work?
Can my truck still act as a donor truck and provide 24 volts through the port?
If my batteries were drained, can I still receive a jump start through the port?

Thanks in advance for the answers.
 

patracy

Administrator
Staff member
Administrator
14,590
4,618
113
Location
Buchanan, GA
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks