I hooked up my CUCV alternator wires backwards and now my truck won't start. Help!

[dedgar301]

Any help would be appreciated.

I hooked up my alternator wires on the driver's side backwards and fried the blue fuseable link. I soldered in a new fuseable link, replaced the alternator with a newly rebuilt one, and charged the batteries up. Now my CUCV will not start. I don't get any power when I turn the ignition key. It is like I don't even have the batteries hooked up. I checked all the fuse under the dash and none are blown. Any thoughts?

Here is the timeline of events:

-My Gen 1 has been overcharging for a while.
-I kept blowing out my taillights and fuses.
-I changed my Alternator.
*I hooked the ground to the batt side and vice-versa. When I started the truck, fireworks. It melted the fuseable link.
-I replaced the blue fuseable link by soldering a new one.
-I replaced the alternator with one I rebuilt with a kit online.
-Now I get no power at all when I turn the key.

I have a feeling it is something simple I am overlooking, but can't figure it out. I have 17.5 volts of power getting to the alternator (if that even matters.) Are there other ignition fuses I need to look for?

Throw in your two cents please. I am willing to try all places to look.

Thanks, Dan

 

[cpf240]

There are more than one fusible link, and they can blow without any outside appearance of having done so.

 

[dedgar301]

OK to solder in a replacement fusible link?

There are more than one fusible link, and they can blow without any outside appearance of having done so.

Do you know if it is OK to solder in a replacement fusible link or do I have to clamp it together somehow? I never worked with one of these things before. Thanks.

 

[cpf240]

Do you know if it is OK to solder in a replacement fusible link or do I have to clamp it together somehow? I never worked with one of these things before. Thanks.

Here is a good thread on the subject of fusible links: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?74776-Fusible-Links-101

 

[tdfontaine]

If it's not your daily driver then take a deep breath, step back, get a multi-meter and start methodically troubleshooting the issue.

 

[Warthog]

Here is a good thread on the subject of fusible links: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?74776-Fusible-Links-101

Thanks for posting that link. Reminded me to post an update with more pictures

 

[dedgar301]

There are more than one fusible link, and they can blow without any outside appearance of having done so.

You were right cpf240. I looked and found another burnt fusible link. Thanks again!

 

[Warthog]

Looking at Amphi's sticky thread about Burnt links and runaway starter shows the two links that usually blown.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...fter-Starter-Run-on-Explained-and-Illustrated

By hooking up the alternator backwards caused a very similar reverse current flow and there by burning out the same two links.

 

[dedgar301]

I soldered the Fusible links together but plan on getting clamps at Napa later. The links did their job and surely saved lots of component damage on the CUCV. The only residual issues I have left are to fix are my tail lights, dome light, and dash lights that are not working. These particular issues may or may not be related to the reverse hookup issue. The reason I even attempted to replaced the original DS alternator was because the Gen 1 light was on and I saw I was overcharging the system. I fiqured maybe this is why my fuse kept blowing for these lights. That is how my problems all originally started before I hooked the new alternator up the wrong way. Right now, my horn is working but those lights are not. I was hoping it would be something simple like the fuse, but they all are fine and the horn works and the light bulbs are good so it must be something else in the wiring perhaps. Any idea please throw them at me for the next round of troubleshooting. Your expertise is greatly appreciated.