• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

I lost my Teeth! A Must See!

rickf

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,074
1,473
113
Location
Pemberton, N.J.
You say it was a fire truck, I have seen a lot of blown rears in off road fire trucks due to the weight of a water tank and an inexperienced driver shifting into all wheel drive before leaving the pavement. Then turning on the pavement, something has to give. Usually it is an axle but I have seen my share of rears go also. Along with transfer cases, U-joints, driveshafts.
 

flighht2k5

Banned
322
5
0
Not entirely true, Boyce equipment in Ogden Ut uses/used 2 1/2 ton axles under monster trucks....
Not real monastery trucks like big foot and the others with 66" tires. They used 5 tons and kept breaking them. So they started using ZF axles.
 

ODdave

New member
3,213
38
0
Location
lansing michigan
We wash axles all the time, Not one failier yet due to particals not getting cleaned out. Like said ALWAYS use a magnet. Cheap insurance.
 

DeucesWild11

Active member
1,265
12
38
Location
Putnam County, NY
Thanks again guys, I was thinking the weight of the water in the tank when it was a firetruck as well. Heck this could have been the deuce that they told the newbies to practice on for all I know.

Anyway I am getting a new axle and plan on inspecting it well and doing a good fluid flush. Then when I have time with the old one I will see what the damage is and if I can turn it into a locker..

My question still remains, is there anything I should look for since my truck was "Bobbed" that may have led or caused this failure, axle length too long or short..? That's the only thing I can think of..
 

DeucesWild11

Active member
1,265
12
38
Location
Putnam County, NY
Thanks ODdave, that will make me sleep a little better. Seriously the only abuse I could think of since I owned here was when I had the brakes locking up on me on the recovery home.. perhaps that caused some excess strain and high heat?? Other than that she has been on pavement and pampered..

This whole ordeal originally bummed me out, but wow what fun it will be for me to tackle this project. It will be a much bigger task than taking the engine out of my '73 VW beetle when I was 16..ha!
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
749
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Shouldn't be too bad really.

Take the tire/rims off, set it on the ground.
Unbolt the axle, lift rear of truck.
Drag old axle out, push new one under.
Bolt axle to truck, put tires back on.
Bleed brakes.
 

DeucesWild11

Active member
1,265
12
38
Location
Putnam County, NY
Gimpy you were right fairly simple but due to the weight of these things not an easy task by yourself.

So here's the rundown. I got the new axle but it didn't have the axle shafts so I used the ones I had which were pitted/rusty in some spots. Water must have gotten in there somehow or possibly from condensation. Anyway, I took a wire wheel to the bad spots cleaned them and they seem fine so I put them in the new axle.

While I had everything apart I decided to buy a nice 20 gallon pressurized media blaster from Tractor Supply, that thing worked great as you can see from the pics.. I blasted off allot of the major rust down to the bare metal and then coated with Rustoleum Rust Reformer and then with a spray on bed liner.

I bolted everything back together and then it was time for fluids. Someone once gave me a bunch of waste oil and by accident gave me a 5 gallon bucket of unused 10W-30. I decided to fill up the rear differential with 10-30 to flush out any impurities since we did take off the pumpkin to inspect the teeth before I purchased it. I also checked out the front diff and the T-Case. They were both nasty, the oil was a rusty color and foamy. I did the same with the 10W-30 flush. I took it around the neighborhood relatively slow and then drained them all out and replaced with nice new 80-90 gear oil.

The truck feels great now and shifts smooth as well. An added benefit was that the rear hubs were not flipped like my original axle. This is great as the rear wheels now stick out 6" from the M105 bed and I don't have the clearance issue with the inside of the wheel wells like I had before. They don't track in the same line but I like it!:lol:

When I have the time to take the old axle apart I will post pics so you can see how chewed up it got..

Thanks again for the help guys!
 

Attachments

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,172
113
Location
NY
Is that hole cut into your frame, for clearance for the spring clamp plate?

Never seen anyone need to do that before.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,247
1,172
113
Location
NY
Also interesting is, the use of a torque rod along with the springs. Haven't seen anyone post that before.

Do you get your truck inspected ?
 

DeucesWild11

Active member
1,265
12
38
Location
Putnam County, NY
Yeah but it wasn't one of those fine tooth comb inspections. It was more like what the heck is that.. do the blinkers work.. OK here's your sticker.. I didn't even have windshield wipers on it!!rofl
 

phil2968

Active member
2,591
17
38
Location
Lakeland, Florida
It still has the original spring pivot attached to the frame! Look at the last pic real close! It looks like it was moved forward. Who bobbed this truck?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks