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I will definitely be interested in stopping by and getting good intel.
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
I might be a little crazy – 4,000 mile M1079 recovery Illinois to Alaska
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Also feel free to reach out for build questions? Been there done that.
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No. As with many things in A1R life it is not the correct flasher. The A1R uses an LED capable flasher module. It does say it's LED compatible but it doesn't look like the ones I'm used to.
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For the blinker module, I actually incorporated a truck-lite module. I purchased the one that makes a loud irritating noise as it blinks…hate the noise but the unit has worked for 8 years. 
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Yeah Trucklite makes a lot of the lighting and modules for the military so that would likely be a fine alternative.
Question though - why are we needing a flasher module? Is it bad?
Question though - why are we needing a flasher module? Is it bad?
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Small world, I bought it from Green Valley just south of Peoria.
Yeah Trucklite makes a lot of the lighting and modules for the military so that would likely be a fine alternative.
Question though - why are we needing a flasher module? Is it bad?
Not sure, the turn signals/hazards didn't work when I inspected the truck. I didn't have time to fully troubleshoot the cause at the time, but I noticed that the hazard relay wasn't original, so I'm hoping it is a simple relay swap. Would a failed flasher module totally disable the turn signals/hazards?
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Ronmar
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Yes, TS and hazards use the same flasher module so it would disable both. That is one of the TS steps, hazards bypass the signal sw, so cna help determine if it is a flsher or a signal switch issue.
my flasher module was bad on my truck, and I have seen quite a few bad ones. It is easy enough to upgrade. A commercial 3 wire solid state will work here for both LED and incandescents.
i used this one from Grote, model 44010. been working fine since 21
my flasher module was bad on my truck, and I have seen quite a few bad ones. It is easy enough to upgrade. A commercial 3 wire solid state will work here for both LED and incandescents.
i used this one from Grote, model 44010. been working fine since 21
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1/2 " DeWalt impact has worked great for my lugs.
I would look for CTIS (black housing) controllers on eBay, maybe I got lucky but I got a few for about $30 that work perfectly.
Wheel values are likely corroded at this point, I was able to rebuild mine without additional parts.
I hate an A1R and am in la crosse, wi if you need a hand when passing though
I would look for CTIS (black housing) controllers on eBay, maybe I got lucky but I got a few for about $30 that work perfectly.
Wheel values are likely corroded at this point, I was able to rebuild mine without additional parts.
I hate an A1R and am in la crosse, wi if you need a hand when passing though
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Thanks @Ronmar, I think I'll order one of those flasher modules to have just in case. I'll only have ~3 days to work on the truck in Illinois before heading north so I'm trying to get everything I'll need before flying down.
I understand schedule constraints, but think carefully about this. It sounds like you're prepping correctly but a single minor issue could literally strand you for days or weeks on the road. This is a massive expedition in a (basically) unevaluated rig. Take the time to make sure it's ready before heading out. Don't be a victim of "Get-there-itis".
That said, there are plenty of examples of this drivetrain doing fine on trips like these, but you need to be absolutely confident prior to setting off. Once you're in the middle of nowhere, your support options are... shall we say... limited. I personally know the horrid feeling of seeing the CEL come on and the truck going into limp mode on a wheel-deep sand doubletrack 40 miles from pavement and over 1000 miles from home. I was fortunate enough to recover and get home under my own power, but the rig spent the next 7 weeks with the cab tilted. These are complex machines.
I assume you're staying on pavement for this trip but it's a massive maiden voyage. Be as prepared as possible.
Something I would strongly recommend having with you is a laptop with CAT ET on it and the requisite connectors. If anything goes wrong, it will be very useful to help you pinpoint it, and your best shot at getting back on the road with just ordering some parts and R&R them (independent recovery/repair). Yeah, it's a couple hundred $'s, but that's probably only a little more than the $'s you would spend to get a tech to connect to it themselves- never mind the tow bill to get it to them.
As Rick said, if you get further west, drop a line and swing through the Portland area. I saw your truck's ad as well and was trying to get a buddy to jump on it. I hope it's as great a rig as it's spec'd to be for you. Rick's is quite nice!
RRaulston
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I watched this guy's video. He drove from Arizona to Alaska in an LMTV. It was entertaining and remarkable he made it. From breaking down to being towed in the middle of nowhere on a flatbed ($$$$).... I couldn't do it... Wow, it won't let me add the link. Search Captain Manus. I think there were 3 videos....
Ronmar
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I seem to recall helping a guy taking a truck to AK troubleshoot. Had a couple of electrical issues, kept blowing fuses…
tuckerj84
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And I thought I was crazy.... I picked up a 2006 M1083A1R in North Carolina and drove it 1,500 miles back to Colorado over three days. I can't say it was a good idea, but I was much less prepared than you plan to be and it worked out just fine. I shipped a torque multiplier to the sellers home for the lug nuts and took 40 pound of tools in a carry on - and luckily didn't need any of them.
To answer a few of your questions:
- The HEUI pump filter modification goes between the pump and the injectors to keep any pump failure from damaging your injectors (and costing you a pretty penny for new injectors). The concern being the HEUI pump is venerable to dirty oil and can send debris into the injectors when it fails. I wouldn't think this should be a priority before your trip. Just change the oil right before as planned and you should be good. I've been contemplating this upgrade myself in the future when I plan to put more miles between oil changes.
- I don't think changing the transmission fluid to ATF right before your long trip would be a good idea. I haven't done it yet, but most say you need at least a couple flushes to do it right and many even advise against it because they have had problems after. Best to save this one until you can do it right.
The funniest thing I forgot was cribbing for the jack in case I need to change a flat. Doesn't do any good if the jack won't reach the axle. That said I dove on 17 year old original tires for 1,500 miles and I can confirm it's possible to beat the flat spots out of the tires, lol.
I wish you luck!
To answer a few of your questions:
- The HEUI pump filter modification goes between the pump and the injectors to keep any pump failure from damaging your injectors (and costing you a pretty penny for new injectors). The concern being the HEUI pump is venerable to dirty oil and can send debris into the injectors when it fails. I wouldn't think this should be a priority before your trip. Just change the oil right before as planned and you should be good. I've been contemplating this upgrade myself in the future when I plan to put more miles between oil changes.
- I don't think changing the transmission fluid to ATF right before your long trip would be a good idea. I haven't done it yet, but most say you need at least a couple flushes to do it right and many even advise against it because they have had problems after. Best to save this one until you can do it right.
The funniest thing I forgot was cribbing for the jack in case I need to change a flat. Doesn't do any good if the jack won't reach the axle. That said I dove on 17 year old original tires for 1,500 miles and I can confirm it's possible to beat the flat spots out of the tires, lol.
I wish you luck!
RRaulston
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Yea! I think he was putting 12v relays in a 24v socket or something....
I think he kept putting 12v relays in a 24v socket and was blowing them or something like that. Almost had frostbite... it was crazy!
coachgeo
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coachgeo
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just to clarify... am I right thinking; you can put 12v relay in 24v socket, if you get as close to doubling the specs of the 12v one as you can ?
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A 12v relay is going to use a 12v coil and expect a maximum of probably 16v. Sending 24v (or 28v when running) to the coil will almost certainly damage the coil. Maybe not the first time........ but maybe the first time!
Not at all advisable.
Ronmar
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The only difference between a 12v relay and a 24v relay is the coil resistance. In their correct circuits they develop ~ the same wattage and produce ~ the same amount of heat. when you put a 24 in a 12 circuit depending on your voltage drops and the actual relay specs, it may or may not energize and or hold the contacts closed reliably. When you put a 12 in a 24v circuit, it will run hot and have a shorter life, but it will work for a while. I had several of those when I first started digging into my truck, no idea how long they were in there, They stuck out like a sore thumb running my hand across all the relays in the panel, but they were working… not dangerously hot, but noticeably warmer…
in the end there is no relay circuit on the truck that cannot be bypassed by a short jumper wire with one of these on each end… every LMTV should carry a few of these…
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Yep kinda like power windows and starters. 24v makes them really move but can shorten their life.
Definitely should always be prepared to jumper out a relay if needed.
Definitely should always be prepared to jumper out a relay if needed.
coachgeo
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thank @Ronmar & @GeneralDisorder . Glad got that clarified... thought had read it in here somewhere you could .... hadn't done it,.... nor planned too... but had it stuffed in my head as a possible work around if ever needed. Will now erase that file out of my grey matter hard drive.