I think I got lucky buying a Mep803A form auction!

[Guyfang]

My wife would probably disagree with you

Our wifes are cousins, it sounds like.

 

[Guyfang]

I typically have no less than 4 on hand... your wife should be thanking you​ for only having 1!

You have 4 wives on hand? My father once told me the the word woman, is a synonym for trouble. And the more women you have, ................................

 

[Guyfang]

I will be cleaning the dust out of this area...
View attachment 709931View attachment 709930View attachment 709929View attachment 709932

Ok, back to bizness. You know by now that the S1 and S6 switches are the First version switches. They were problem children. Often failed. As long as they work, dont bother with them. BUT, be looking around for the newer versions. I beleve Daybreak put a link to his exelent info about the switches, in this thread. If you ever find a switch at a reasonable price, buy one. Toss it on the shelf, so you dont get caught in a bind. Picture #2. to the left, the panel with the resisters and diodes. The wires that go to the left side often rub on the side of the control panel. if they are touching the side wall, bend them back, and keep an eye on them. You also know about the fuse MWO for the A1. Its simple, easy, and can save you mega bucks. The info is in the posting from Daybreak. Cheap insurance.

 

[stugpanzer]

Ok, back to bizness. You know by now that the S1 and S6 switches are the First version switches. They were problem children. Often failed. As long as they work, dont bother with them. BUT, be looking around for the newer versions. I beleve Daybreak put a link to his exelent info about the switches, in this thread. If you ever find a switch at a reasonable price, buy one. Toss it on the shelf, so you dont get caught in a bind. Picture #2. to the left, the panel with the resisters and diodes. The wires that go to the left side often rub on the side of the control panel. if they are touching the side wall, bend them back, and keep an eye on them. You also know about the fuse MWO for the A1. Its simple, easy, and can save you mega bucks. The info is in the posting from Daybreak. Cheap insurance.

This is great info! While I wait for my Master Switch, I will be looking at these items to fix.

 

[Zed254]

Is that an auction Price?

Yes. GovPlanet auction. Search on 'Raytheon S/A Trailer Chassis GovPlanet' and click the 'Sold' page and you get about a year's worth of history on these trailers. Sort by Most Recent to get prices from last few auctions. I think they were originally used for some kind of radar unit.

 

[Guyfang]

This is a standerd Pu set. The TM was in the gen set, for the PU set. A PU set consists of three things.
1. The gen set itself.
2.The basic trailer chassis.
3. Mods done to the trailer to accomadate the gen set and addional gear.

This Pu set was issued to any number of different types units. From Combat engineer units to ADA.

 

[csheath]

Thanks for the great tip! I just checked mine and it seems that fix has not been done. I will get the fuse block and fuse in place before I try to start her up!
View attachment 709863

I used an inexpensive inline fuse holder from the auto parts store and put a fast acting 3 amp fuse in mine. Less than 5 bucks.

 

[stugpanzer]

I received my new Master Switch. It is a Version 2 switch by Kraus & Naimer with the blue square base which will be replacing the Version 1 switch with the blue round base. What's the best approach in doing this swap? I see that the wires are marked but before I start disconnecting I will verify and re-mark if necessary. I also see there is a jumper which I will need to account for. I presume i need to just disconnect the wires then pull the old switch then mount the new one and put the wires back in the appropriate numbered connections. Did I summarize the steps properly?

 

[csheath]

I would label each wire with the corresponding terminal number before removing them. I usually grab some masking tape and a sharpie but if you wanted to get fancy the home improvement stores may have a book of wire markers for not much money.

 

[stugpanzer]

While I was taking the old switch out, I didn't notice this jumper. It looks like one is pre-installed on the new switch between 4 & 8. Is that correct? That is how I installed it.

 

[kloppk]

Yes - leave the pre-installed jumper on the new switch. You just need to hook the wires back up to the respective terminals and move the diode assembly from the old switch to the new switch. No additional jumpers are required.

I have that exact switch in my spares kit.

 

[Zed254]

Your diode jumper goes from terminal 1 to terminal 7 and that matches my 803A's S1. I've got the Electroswitch S1 on my machine. The attached drawing shows several jumpers on this switch: 2 to 4, 4 to 6, 6 to 8. Your 2nd picture shows a jumper from terminal 4 to terminal 8 on your new switch. It might be a short-cut for the 2/4, 4/6, 6/8 jumpers shown on my switch's drawing. I believe you need to re-use your old switch's diode jumper.

 

[kloppk]

... It might be a short-cut for the 2/4, 4/6, 6/8 jumpers shown on my switch's drawing....

It is.

 

[Guyfang]

I would label each wire with the corresponding terminal number before removing them. I usually grab some masking tape and a sharpie but if you wanted to get fancy the home improvement stores may have a book of wire markers for not much money.

The only thing wrong with doing it this way, is this. What happens if someone before you wired it wrong? ALWAYS, look at the schematics and wire diagram, write down or print out the wire numbers and contact points, and THEN go to it. That way you will always get it right, and know it's right.

Stugpanzer, I promise you, this is not rocket science. You can NOT screw this up, if you take your time, and write up the wire numbers and contact points. The wires should almost fall in place, when you hook them up. The "jumper" you mentioned is probably the diode. Pay attention how you install it. It only goes one way. It's simple. Nothing will blow up if you get it in wrong. There is not much else to it. Get the screws tight.

If you can't find the wire diagram, say something. We can put a copy in the thread. If you can't read a wire number, skip it. Do the rest. Then, what ever is left over, is where it goes. If you can't read several wires, take several wire ties, (zip ties) and loop them loosely around the wire harnes. Then cut the ties that are holding the wire harnes in a bundle, and look farther down the wire. The numbers are every 6-8 cm printed on the wire. Then when you get done, tighten up your loose wire ties, and you are golden.

 

[kloppk]

S1 wiring details..

 

[Guyfang]

****, you guys are getting good! This is what the SS forum is all about!

 

[stugpanzer]

You guys are awesome! I have it wired and yes, I made sure the wires were clearly marked which also included where the diode was/is connected! Sure is great finding people to ask questions!

 

[Guyfang]

And you didnt even try to turn it over?

 

[stugpanzer]

And you didnt even try to turn it over?

Not yet....need to charge the batteries. But hey, I swapped the switch after just getting home from having three tooth extractions!

 

[Guyfang]

And what did I tell you. Not rocket science. One step at a time partner, one step at a time!