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i wanna winch

hndrsonj

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Someone, dig up Mike from OD Irons M1009 build pics. That is the cleanest winch install I have seen on a CUCV. It looks like it came factory.
 

Oldsouthernboy

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I have installed a warn hydro on my M1009 and I an in the process of doing another om my m1028. I bought a pallet of the military takeoffs, They came of a M998 hummer and they are stout. I got the winch, and the the truck mount so with some working and welding I have them mounted. Can not figure how to post pics. I kept the 24 volt operation. Soon I will have everything working I hope now just waiting for FED EX to arrive.
 

Dodge man

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If you can weld, the mounting options are limitless. I put a 17,500lb winch on the front of my M1009. I want to be able to sink it to the axles & not even question whether it will pull itself out. The 7/16" cable does take some effort though.
7/16" cable is far too light for a 17,500 lb winch and too light for a M1009!!! My M-37's winch is rated at 7,5000 lb Working Load and uses 7/16" cable. The manual says that the 7,500 lb WL rating is with a 4 to 1 safety rating so that means that you would be operating at less than a 2 to 1 safety factor if you used the same cable. That's too close IMO! Also the cable on the M-37 is made of IPS (Improved Plow Steel) and is far stronger than most cables of the same size. Do you even KNOW what your cable is rated at??? And further I would NOT trust any cable made in China, India or other 2nd or 3rd world country. In my experience their equipment has NO safety factor and is usually rated about 50% above it's breaking point! I recently broke a Chinese made lift rated at 1,000 lbs WL with a Miller welder with a known weight of 732 lbs!
 

rjinga

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I don't know about the hydraulics, but the Warn 9000# electrics for the HMMWV fit perfectly between the frame rails of a CUCV. This allows it to be tucked up behind the bumper so it is well protected. The mount is a piece of 1/4" plate bent into a Z shape, with two side plates to catch the bumper mount bolts - no cutting or drilling of the truck required.
That looks sweet! Would that work on a M1009 the same way?
 

captw

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Hi guys...I'm interested to know how you access the clutch or hi/low controls on the winch, when they're mounted up behind the bumper...FYI, I have two HMMWV Warn winches and a MileMarker 10,500lb. winch...Wilf
 
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Oldsouthernboy

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I see that this thread has came back. I now have both winches mounted and in full operation. I was pulling some pine trees out of a pond and had to have a tractor come in and anchor me off before I pulled my self into the water. Hummer winches at 10,500 pull in the first wrap of cable. One stout winch, slow but when pulling I want slow. When stuck you are not in a race to get out, just want to get out of the spot when you need to winch. If you can get a hydro winch go for it, I do not regret doing it. Also you never worry about over heating the cables, killing your battery, or the winch overheating and having to wait for a cool down period.
 

gimpyrobb

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Yup, I have 2 of the warn hmmwv winches(warn series 12 winch) apart in my basement right now. You can unbolt and rotate the clutch housing to fit your needs.
 

jdeoliveira74

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I don't know about the hydraulics, but the Warn 9000# electrics for the HMMWV fit perfectly between the frame rails of a CUCV. This allows it to be tucked up behind the bumper so it is well protected. The mount is a piece of 1/4" plate bent into a Z shape, with two side plates to catch the bumper mount bolts - no cutting or drilling of the truck required.
Where would I find such a winch ?
 

jmassenga

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That looks sweet! Would that work on a M1009 the same way?
I would assume so - the front frame on my M1009 looks about the same as my M1008. The 1009 may have smaller flanges on the frame rails (didn't measure), which may actually give you a little more room around the winch.

When I put mine on, I mounted the winch flipped upside down from normal. This puts the electrical connections on the right side, and the clutch lever on the bottom left. Easy to reach under and flip, but it is still out of the way and behind the spring hanger, so the lever is well protected. I remote mounted the solenoid pack between the batteries to keep it from hanging down.

As to where to get them, if you have deep pockets you can get them new from Warn. I picked mine up used at a 4x4 swap meet cheap due to it being 24v.
 

pgwaldner

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Here is what I came up with. The winch is on a 2" reciever so it can be used front or rear. The NATO plug was converted to 12 volts. The reciever set up on the front has 3 reciever spots so the winch can be placed in any of the positions and the other 2 spots can be used for shackle recievers or whatever else I want to change to. The whole arrangement can be removed as it is held in place with the original shackle pins. The shackles can then be easily placed back on as factory. The only permanent change to the truck is the 12 volt nato plug. The winch is a 9k Warn.
 

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2INSANE

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Belgrade, Montana
We made a simple rolled bracket out of 1/8" plate so it bolted in existing holes in the frame rails. I wanted to keep the grill guard intact and used an 9500 rated winch. We cut a slot in the front bumper and mounted a roller fair lead to the stock from bumper. If I had it to do over again, I would have switched to the new rope and a regular fair lead to keep it cleaner.

I disagree that the 8000 winches are not enough as all it takes is a block or two to increase the pull. Normally you do not have to winch over a few feet anyway, once you are free, it is time to clean up the mess.

I had a 8274 on the front of my M715 and I liked to run it with a block, mainly because of line speed. They are a very fast winch and a dangerous one to operate. I like them though, super, super reliable and easy to work on. The bad part about putting one on a M1009 is the height of the upright design. You would have to leave it hanging way out there or butcher the grill guard.

I just jumped off of a single battery and used a 12V winch. Never had an issue at either end. I also mounted one in the middle of the rear frame of both my M715 and my M1008. I removed the pintle hitch on both trucks and ran the fair lead in the rear frame.

On the rear mount in the M1008 I used the winch to mount the license plate, just made a stainless steel tag and welded a tab on the inside. I used a spring attached to the loop in the cable to suck it up to the bumper with the winch cable. I also wired in trailer connectors for the remote winch lines. I stored the remotes behind the seat in an ammo can and the cables were long enough to reach the cab from the plug ins. I had it set up with two remotes, but I never actually used both winches at once on the M1008. I did use both winches on my M715 in one recovery at the same time. Glen
Glen that good! Very good! Me likey:)
 

2INSANE

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Belgrade, Montana
Here is what I came up with. The winch is on a 2" reciever so it can be used front or rear. The NATO plug was converted to 12 volts. The reciever set up on the front has 3 reciever spots so the winch can be placed in any of the positions and the other 2 spots can be used for shackle recievers or whatever else I want to change to. The whole arrangement can be removed as it is held in place with the original shackle pins. The shackles can then be easily placed back on as factory. The only permanent change to the truck is the 12 volt nato plug. The winch is a 9k Warn.
Nice! Using the plug in the front! Super cool!
 
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