Brentzilla
Member
- 172
- 0
- 16
- Location
- Greenville, NC
Just ordered since in NC I can run a historic plate and keep the real one in the cab
Attachments
-
6.9 KB Views: 2
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
This is my worries right here... I don't have as many spare Deuce parts (don't have any in fact) as I do spare Jeep parts! I'd show up and pick up a non running Jeep any day of the week because I have nearly a whole spare jeep worth of parts I would be bringing. I've wanted a Deuce for years, I'm just too broke to do a private buy on one that is equipped how I want it to be. My plan is to pick one up on GL that was "driven onto the lot" and hope it works well enough to limp it off the base to somewhere nearby where I can work on it for a few hours and then find a way to get it home.I think this still applies to the general theme of this thread. I do want to get a Deuce, but still have questions. I've read some of the recovery stories here, and it just seems like such a gamble to buy one from GL. The nearest place with M35A2's is Indy, which is a doable drive for a long day from MI. But it seems too risky to plan on driving it back. Even if you went with new batteries and plenty of tools, there seems like there would be one little item that wasn't planned for. A couple of the trucks in Indy right now have these: they show an underhood shot of one truck, and it is missing the radiator cap. Another truck has at least one flat tire, and rusty wheel... what are the chances that it would hold air? I suppose flat-towing is a common option, or?
Regarding engines, is there a preference between the White, Continental, and Hurcules? What about year of the truck or manufacturer? Kaiser better than AM Gen, etc?
Wanting a Duece seems like a bad idea... distracting me from maintenance on my other vehicles, and using up all spare cash, but what can I do, I want one.
The GL auction service has lots of bad things that can happen, but the only fees that you will pay are a 10% auction fee (10% of the sale price) and then like $60 or something for an SF97 which is what you will need to get a title. You also might have to pay state sales tax, but you'd have to do that anyway even with a private sale.
Warning though, do not purchase through a private sale if they never did acquire a title! You will have a big hassle if you do.
I'd prefer one with a winch, hardtop, and heater; the cargo cover is not something I care that much about since I can pick one up easily afterwards myself. Any of those are optional, I really have no idea how to find parts for these yet. I'd rank the importance of those options as hardtop, winch, heater, cargo cover... probably crazy, but I don't see myself needing a winch and it'll be parked outside in the winter thus the hardtop. For the right price, I'd go without any of those options, especially if it was a rust free truck. The only definite thing I want is that it be a standard cargo bed, not a fire truck or water carrier or wrecker or something, since I'll be using it for moving furniture, loads of construction materials and home renovation waste, etc.What options do you want? Do you want one with a winch, heater, hardtop, and cargo cover already on the truck?
Let me know what you want and I will help you locate one, plus this whole community can help you. I know where there are some on the private market too.
Only in a multifuel engine not in a Cat motor in the M35A3.You only have to filter it good,no water or antifreeze.Im not sure where I saw it but can these trucks run om used motor oil? And if so does it have to be refined in order to use it? Just curious.
Like BillyBobbed just said, to run umo it must be multi-fuel. Some guys run it through a centerfuge while others, like myself pre-filter it. I have fuel filters and bases that I picked up from Tractor Supply that are plumbed to a barrel pump which is in a 55 gal drum of umo.Im not sure where I saw it but can these trucks run om used motor oil? And if so does it have to be refined in order to use it? Just curious.
An A3 would be awesome, but I've never seen one that wasn't wayyyyyy out of my price range.if yu want one I have acess to a very nice m35a3ww but no cover for the rear
shows 700 miles
Makes sense. Doesn't need to be 100% rust free, I just don't want one like my first car, with football sized holes in the floor and part of the frame rotted away still working on fixing that. Surface rust and lousy paint are fine, deep structurally dangerous rust isn't.Like BillyBobbed just said, to run umo it must be multi-fuel. Some guys run it through a centerfuge while others, like myself pre-filter it. I have fuel filters and bases that I picked up from Tractor Supply that are plumbed to a barrel pump which is in a 55 gal drum of umo.
As far as the options go, the winch is basically a $1000 option. Any truck with winch is typically $1000 more than one without. The hardtop is anywhere from $400-700 option and the heater is around $250 or cheaper. The cargo cover is around $300-400 probably. If your price range is around $3000 you should be able to find a non-winch truck from a private sale, but you will not find one perfectly "rust free" in that price range.
Well, at least it's a start... good luck!Kastein, the truck is not necessarily an "enemy combatant", but it is hostile! When she heard that there is a possibility to make $$ renting it out for movies she got a little happier.
I'm still trying to figure this out. Inside storage is not an option right now, so, hard top, and cargo cover are up there on the list. I much prefer doing mechanical work rather than body work, so good paint is also high on the list. That might be asking too much for a GL truck, though. Heater is a big plus, and winch would be good too... so loaded I guess! I suppose most of the features can be added, though, except maybe the winch.What options do you want? Do you want one with a winch, heater, hardtop, and cargo cover already on the truck?
Let me know what you want and I will help you locate one, plus this whole community can help you. I know where there are some on the private market too.
Pics?Yesterday I finally got all the stuck budd caps off and put on the 46" tires, I took it for a test drive...it seems considerably faster and about the same difficulty in turning.
Only in a multifuel engine not in a Cat motor in the M35A3.You only have to filter it good,no water or antifreeze.
Thanks for the info guy's. I had seen where people were working on making there own bio-fuel from grease but the process seemed to be a pain to keep all going well. Thats why I wasn't sure what all would need to be done to run the motor oil, As stated above the biggest issue would be to make sure its clean of water and antifreeze after that filler up.Like BillyBobbed just said, to run umo it must be multi-fuel. Some guys run it through a centerfuge while others, like myself pre-filter it. I have fuel filters and bases that I picked up from Tractor Supply that are plumbed to a barrel pump which is in a 55 gal drum of umo.
As far as the options go, the winch is basically a $1000 option. Any truck with winch is typically $1000 more than one without. The hardtop is anywhere from $400-700 option and the heater is around $250 or cheaper. The cargo cover is around $300-400 probably. If your price range is around $3000 you should be able to find a non-winch truck from a private sale, but you will not find one perfectly "rust free" in that price range.
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!