If anyone in the San Diego county area is familiar with the M800 series

[swbradley1]

And I wouldn't recommend a new alternator until you determine the one on there is bad. I used a Delco like new one with new brackets. About $115. Some people like them and some don't. I've used them on a M813 and a M35A2 and both worked.

 

[MilesWorx]

Can you turn the engine over with a bar/socket? It may be frozen.

Negative, that'll be next time I can get at the truck. I'll be pulling injectors and spraying in penetrating oil then see if engine wants to turn. I highly suspicion a bad starter connection or just old starter that needs encouragement.

 

[swbradley1]

I got lucky with my old one. A friend found a gear-reduction starter and put it on. Started easy on two small batteries.

 

[serpico760]

Did it fail to start the same way as the first time? Just the solenoid clicking?

It could be that the cables going to the starter need removed and cleaned to make a good connection. It may arc over a little and then open the connection and that will result in a clunk and no start.

The relay box on the firewall can still cause issues. Every once in awhile I would have to tap mine to get the starter to go. The boxes as far as I know are still available.

I would begin the next part of your journey with the manuals and look at the wiring diagrams.

Here's a video of what would happen when we tried to start it

 

[swbradley1]

I see the problem in the video. Spiderweb on the front of the engine not adjusted correctly.

It sounds like it still could be corrosion on the connectors but my guess is the starter solenoid. That starter isn't light if you take it off. But make sure the engine can turn over first.

 

[MilesWorx]

Here's a video of what would happen when we tried to start it

Oh! Clever... I hadn't thought to post a video! Thanks Serpico!

 

[MilesWorx]

I see the problem in the video. Spiderweb on the front of the engine not adjusted correctly.

It sounds like it still could be corrosion on the connectors but my guess is the starter solenoid. That starter isn't light if you take it off. But make sure the engine can turn over first.

Are spider webs calibrated by MM or thousandths, are the tools readily accessible?