• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

If you rescue someone with your truck in the snow this week, please do a video

Reworked LMTV

Reworked LMTV

Expedition Campers Limited, LLC
Supporting Vendor
1,511
1,178
113
Location
TN
If you rescue someone with your truck in the snow this week, please do a video for the archives. Will be used to promote military vehicle use / to help legislation in Anti-military truck States / Countries. Canada's military trucks, for example, have taken a beating in their legislation. Showing what our trucks can do will change minds.
 
G

gslader

Well-known member
106
288
63
Location
California
spankybear said:
If you are in an LMTV in the snow, chances are you will need to be rescued. LMTVs SUCK in the snow.
Click to expand...
My experience so far has been:
Cold compacted snow: Good (and better when aired down)

Deep uncompacted snow: Bad - my truck digs holes really quickly; if it is much past he differential depth wise - I stay away

Shallow uncompacted snow: Good - I’ve found about 2 1/2’ is about as deep as I can go before it starts riding up on the diff and I lose traction - that said this is where I have helped most people who get high centered in stock trucks/SUVs as they get high centered much sooner than i do.

Warm, slushy snow: OK on flat ground but the weight of the rig creates an ice layer that makes hills challenging.

Ice: Horrible (with chains - really good the weight of the truck really seats the chains in the ice)

I’ve been running Pewag chains on my rear wheels the last three days and have been super impressed with what they add to the truck. Our driveway is 15 degree incline and a sheet of ice and I’ve been able to back my truck up it into my garage every day with chains on the rear (I do need to go into “mode” and lock the differentials).

The other thing I’ve found to be super helpful is a 150’, 28k lb dyneema tow rope - it helps me stay away from the issues that caused other people issues and still enable me to recover them.
 
Last edited:
ToddJK

ToddJK

Well-known member
1,321
4,518
113
Location
Sparta, MI
For recoveries, I would highly suggest a kinetic rope. It's hard to judge when the slack is gone in a tow rope and while it doesn't pull hard on our truck due to the weight, it does on cars, SUV's, and pick ups. Using the winch is also a great idea for a slow and strong pull to reduce the possibility of damage, but if a tow strap or tow rope is what you have, just be mindful and from the video's above, he did an excellent job!
 
coachgeo

coachgeo

Well-known member
5,150
3,466
113
Location
North of Cincy OH
ToddJK said:
For recoveries, I would highly suggest a kinetic rope. It's hard to judge when the slack is gone in a tow rope and while it doesn't pull hard on our truck due to the weight, it does on cars, SUV's, and pick ups. Using the winch is also a great idea for a slow and strong pull to reduce the possibility of damage, but if a tow strap or tow rope is what you have, just be mindful and from the video's above, he did an excellent job!
Click to expand...
IMHO if you do any rope tugging an avg. car/truck hook it to something lower on your truck than the pintel. ESP if the strap/rope your using is short. The upward angle will end up with you replacing peoples bumpers/front fascia cause the angle of the rope cracks their fascia . Should not so bad with very long rope... but still an issue.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
111,237members
165,506threads
2,329,162posts
1,055online users
Top