Ignition Lock Cylinder/Hot wire/Push-button start?

[PeeWeeQ]

This sucks...

So, my ignition lock cylinder is so stripped out (I hope is isn't that whatchamacallit gear) that I can't even get the ignition to make contact to start the beast . Is there a way to bypass the ignition (hot-wire it, basically) to get it home where I have ready access to tools and copious amounts of beer? I don't really want to work on it in the parking lot or have it towed...

I'll be using the TM and a helpful thread that I found here, but, any other words of wisdom will be appreciated.

Speaking of the "hot-wire", I've been considering a push-button start (more for giggles than anything else). How would I bypass the factory ignition, in a more permanent fashion than the situation above, in order to implement something like that? It sure would solve my cylinder problem.

Thanks for your time and help, gents. As I move forward, as I usually do, I'll take pics and post them as I move forward so, hopefully, someone else can benefit from my debacle...

 

[corelokt]

Yes. Run a hot lead to the injection pump. Look up the connections here. Then run a hot to the little wire going to the starter. If it's warm out, it should start without glow plugs. If not, you'll need to supply juice to that relay and to it's little wire to warm them.
I've thought about doing away with the column switch all together and going to a dash mounted old style. It's a long time since I hot rod wired a truck that had an electrical fire. I went after market on all the switches.

 

[cucvrus]

A new GM lock cylinder was about $20. last time I bought one. Seems a bit silly/excessive to do the bypass and push button when all you need is a lock cylinder. But you will still have to bypass the steering lock pin. With out removing the steering wheel you are in the same place. Remove the steering wheel, lock plate and 1 screw and the lock cylinder is changed. Good Luck.

 

[VermontPrepper]

Not sure.if this will work, but I had a stuck cylinder and I just tapped the key with a hammer and it engaged so I could turn it. Wondering if that will work to create a contact?

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[Tinstar]

This sounds like an issue that’s been building for a while.
Like CUCVRUS said, it’s a very easy and inexpensive fix.
You can do it in the parking lot. Borrow a steering wheel puller.

That’s a whole lot easier than hacking into wiring.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Well, I'm really not ready to tackle the push-button start bit right now anyway. I'm swamped with nursing school, kid's activities, and keeping up with my house and other vehicles. I'm also gonna TRY to do this in that parking lot, against my better judgement (I HATE having to shuttle back and forth because I forgot a tool). AND its getting colder...

I have a steering wheel and lock plate puller now, so, are there any other specific tools you gents can think of off of the top of your heads I will absolutely need? I searched the TMs as much as I could and they haven't been much help. I did find a parts diagram...

 

[doghead]

T-20 torx bit

utube link removed...

There are some helpful videos on utube.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

I watched that chucklehead. He wastes SO much time complaining--it could be a 20 minute vid!!! I found this one too. It's for an older GM, so, I'm wondering how close it is to what I need....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3eVl7MZN_dg

 

[PeeWeeQ]

"Not sure.if this will work, but I had a stuck cylinder and I just tapped the key with a hammer and it engaged so I could turn it. Wondering if that will work to create a contact?"

Well, the key goes in (I'll post pics of what is broken later), turns, but won't go all the way forward anymore. I can turn it on, have power, and warm up the plugs, but, I can't get it to the start position. I was able to last night after some serious fiddling, but, 1/2 hour of fiddling this AM wouldn't fire it up...

I'm not saying your idea wouldn't work, but, I can't afford to destroy anything else beyond what already needs fixin', so, I'm just not going to risk it. Thanks for chiming in, though! I appreciate all the help I can get!

 

[doghead]

It may be the rod/linkage to the ignition swicth or even the switch.

http://www.texas4x4.org/gallery/albums/1983-K5/Column.jpg

 

[VermontPrepper]

Well, the key goes in (I'll post pics of what is broken later), turns, but won't go all the way forward anymore. I can turn it on, have power, and warm up the plugs, but, I can't get it to the start position. I was able to last night after some serious fiddling, but, 1/2 hour of fiddling this AM wouldn't fire it up...

I'm not saying your idea wouldn't work, but, I can't afford to destroy anything else beyond what already needs fixin', so, I'm just not going to risk it. Thanks for chiming in, though! I appreciate all the help I can get!

No worries. I had the same concerns when I tried

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[Tinstar]

After that info I bet Ignition switch.
I just replaced one on Tuesday and it was getting rough turning the key.

Didn’t realize it until new one installed. Butter smooth now.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

It was indeed the ignition lock cylinder. It wasn't a bad job, either. I had all of the tools I needed and it took about 1-1/2 hours, all said and done, maybe less. I took my time (as I usually do doing something for the 1st time). The biggest challenge was keeping track of all of my tools, parts, and stuff in the confines of the front seat and in the dark. You can see in these pics how it was broken...

 

[PeeWeeQ]

The first bit was simple. Using the puller was easy. Even the lock plate wasn't too bad. But, getting the plastic piece off was a pain until I watched the video again and figured out how to loosen the tabs to get it off. The lock plate was fine until it came to getting the ring off. That wasn't bad either once I figured it out. After that, it was all down hill. The 3-part video that Doghead posted was the most help, if you can stand listening to the guy sigh and whine through the whole thing.

And that's that.

 

[Tinstar]

That was fun huh?!
It’s easy but a total PITA!!

So much for my Ignition switch theory

 

[PeeWeeQ]

I've definately tackled worse. Normally, when I'm at home with beer, a bathroom, and ALL of my tools, I'm much more comfortable. But, being in this parking lot, I was waiting for--even anticipating--that something that would come up that I didn't have the right tool for, or, for something to break and blow up this simple fix into a crap-tastrophy.

The good Lord blessed me today!

 

[cucvrus]

Another thing to keep in mind. Tight ignition switches can be caused by the lock pin. If you have a lock pin that does not come out and lock your wheel every time. You are going to experience a harder turn of the ignition switch. What I do if I experience hard switch without the steering lock is spray compressed air in the slot where the steering wheel meets the column. Get that good and blow out. Spray a little WD40 and free that pin up. You will notice the ease of movement right away. Then follow up with some oil in the squirt can. Place a towel below the column to catch the excess oil. do NOT go wild with the oil. A little goes a long way. Clean it all up. If you have no results and the pin is still sticking. Time to do this procedure with the steering wheel removed. And this is only the fix if the lock pin is tight and dry/gritty. If the pin works normal. Time to drop the column and get cleaning and possibly replacing a few slide switches located on the column top side. Good Luck. If this helps 1 person my goal was met. Have a Great Day.

PS: One more thing I wanted to add. Miss cut keys work but may make the whole system work harder. Get a reliable lock smith to cut you a key to code for the CUCV on a GM B blank. The code escapes me at the moment but I am sure help will arrive soon. The key code for the U.S. CUCV is 73Y2 as delivered from the factory. This is the B-key

 

[Recovry4x4]

My spare CUCV keys. All cut with a Curtis key cutter, all cut by yours truely.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

What do you need to know exactly?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAm-N_PbREE

 

[PeeWeeQ]

"What do you need to know exactly?"

First off--you're my keyless ignition hero. Next, where did you get the goods to do it? I was going to use a momentary rocker with a flip-up cover with a label that says "ARM" and a push-button for the starter that says "FIRE"--kind of going on a weapon theme...BUT, I love staying with the military theme. I had even thought about putting one of the M-Series push button switches in for the lights too. I drove a 5 ton and HEMTT for many years and always like those switches...