ignition/starting trouble

[rocarter]

Iy do not have a voltmeter (yet) ok, so I might also have glo plug issues-I thought the wait light bulb was burned out but after checking the bulb again today It looks like it might be ok. I need to still get the batteries checked out and go get the VOM. When I had the first switch malfunction The volt/bat gauge fried, do I need that to run or is it just a gauge, and not necessary for function-or is it necessary?

 

[mistaken1]

The gauge is not needed for the system to start run.

I highly recommend you undo whatever your mechanic did so that the system will be closer to stock then what it is now. People here will help you with a stock starting system but if it has been modified then you will be on your own.

That is first thing to do is determine if the starting system is stock CUCV or not.

Not to pick on you but if you are trying to troubleshoot electrical issues without a VOM you might as well wear a blindfold when working on you truck. The results are gonna be the same.

 

[rocarter]

I'll take the shot, I might as well have been blind folded when I started this project. But the view is getting clearer, this last round of trouble shooting (3rd go, 1st really by my onesies) I started mainly looking for the possible frayed or fried wire(s), and now that I have seen the wires and nothing burnt or frayed (except the glow plug deal) my next step is to have the batteries tested, hook them (or new ones) up and get the VOM and then check for volts through teh system. May the force be with me.

 

[mistaken1]

I shoulda put a smilie on it.

How are the batteries wired? Stock setup is in series. Front battery negative to the frame. Front battery positive to the rear battery negative. Rear battery positive to the top bus in one of your pictures. 24V nominal from that bus to the frame. There should be a wire from that bus to your solenoid on the starter.

 

[simoncrk]

This is just a thought. My friend bought a M1009, after 5 months his ignition switch locked up and wouldn't turn. After he forced it to turn (of course he stripped it out) he had to replace it. When he did replace it, he found that the wires had gotten hot. Looked like they were ready to fry....

 

[cucvcan]

Don't worry about the suppressor between the bus bars, you only need it to help military radio reception/clarity. Will not affect starting.

 

[rocarter]

Yeah, batteries were hooked up correctly. The ignition never locked, that part seems to function fine, I think this whole mess started with the starter relay starting to go out (we have since replaced the relay with the heavier mod as suggested in other posts), but since then with taking it to someone it has just been one thing after another. The first time it wouldn't start I thought it was an ignition thing, I had run around for about 20 min, let it sit running for a few minutes and my wife shut it down, it has been trouble ever since. I am still in the process of getting a VOM and testing now-again thanks to all for the help, I'll keep going until she starts up.

 

[edpdx]

Old thread I know; but I hate to find threads with no posted resolution, even if they resolved it by a gas can and pack of matches

Could this be an ignition switch problem? I see someone posted that the wires at the key switch were corroded.

I'd like to hear from the OP.

 

[NCBloodhound]

Old thread I know; but I hate to find threads with no posted resolution, even if they resolved it by a gas can and pack of matches

Could this be an ignition switch problem? I see someone posted that the wires at the key switch were corroded.

I'd like to hear from the OP.

I am having issues too and would love to hear what the resolution was.

 

[ralbelt]

Same here, read the entire thread and no answers, and he has not been on since July 2010, I was hoping for a conclusion.

 

[Smokingman]

I shoulda put a smilie on it.

How are the batteries wired? Stock setup is in series. Front battery negative to the frame. Front battery positive to the rear battery negative. Rear battery positive to the top bus in one of your pictures. 24V nominal from that bus to the frame. There should be a wire from that bus to your solenoid on the starter.

A picture is worth 1000 words.I picked up an M1009 a few weeks ago and have run into a problem or two.Most where solved simply.Until I saw the picture in your post I was baffled even after looking and tracing voltage all over the truck.I had 0 power to the dash,starting at the diamond shaped junction on the fire wall in the engine compartment.In all my looking at diagrams and chasing down the source of the problem I missed ONE wire.I missed it because it is not even there.

In your picture it shows a wire leading from the battery "jumper" to the fire wall over to the diamond shaped junction.This is my missing 12V to the dash I assume.

Thank you.

If I am wrong someone please correct me,in the a.m. I will be running a wire and hopefully have dash power

 

[semocoachworks]

I own the 1009 that the Op had been having trouble with and it was still in the same shape it was in when he last posted. Repairs went as follows:

1. Someone had put in a kill switch with a big plastic key type thing that had a very low amp rating and was fried.
2. Wrong starter relay, I did the doghead relay and a new starter and bought the starter bracket that was missing.
3. Unhacked all the wiring and rewired to TM specs. The volt gauge works fine now, I repaired the controller card for glow plugs myself AFTER finding 5 of 8 Gp's shot. I tested gp's per tm and tested relay, got all of those bugs worked out and repaired the card. This was a case of a "mechanic" working on it with no idea of what he was doing. I know the Op and he did the best he could and is not mechanically inclined. After following the tm's and going through the troubleshooting, I have this thing back to service condition and drive it everyday. I failed to mention, it had a burnt fusible link at the 12 volt diamond shaped connector on the firewall which made it lose all 12 volt power in the cab. I ordered the fusible link wire from napa and repaired that as well. The only issue I have had was the flywheel bolts came loose enough to make some racket and after new bolts and a little loc tite, I drive this thing everywhere. Thanks to the TM's and dogheads relay, I would drive this thing anywhere with no worries. I cleaned ALL connections and coated them with battery coat from barnes products

 

[edpdx]

Thanks for posting a resolution- glad to hear you are up-and-running. Too bad the original poster could not get things resolved. I had similar issues; but finally got my M1009 running after sanding all the leads in the GP card box . I still had intermittant issues where I would get a loud click instead of the expected wind up of the starter; but then on the next turn of the key it would fire and start?!? Last week I went to start it and all I got was a lot of smoke from the tail pipe when cranking- like a NO SPARK condition. It took me two seconds to surmise that the original card may have given out. I had ordered one from one of the members on this forum and it was still sitting in a bag on my shelf. I R&R'd it and it fired right up- no issues since... I better order another spare.