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MT4 is on the "floor" behind the gauge panel in the front right corner.
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If the MT4 shunt is in tact, my next suggestion would be to check CR-1 diode on the board in the rear left of the control cube. think it's the 2nd one up from the bottom? If in doubt, turn all the switches on, put main switch in the run position and briefly touch a wire across CR-1, if the fuel pump comes on you know CR-1 is blown.
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But CR1 has not much to do with panel lights. Still, it needs to be checked.
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Are you sure Guy? looking at the "Colored" schematic, it looks like power ( red line ) goes through MT-4 then through CR1 , to the dead crank switch, then S17, to CB1 then S1 and S2 out to the panel lights.
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Ray, your right, thats the way it looks. And hooking up the batteries could blow the CR1. I keep thinking of the old sets, and there is no diode in them.
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Yup, I once sold an 003 to a guy, demonstrated it and sold to him without batteries. A week later he called and said fuel pumps would run but no crank / no start. Turned out he put batteries in backwards. Nothing blew and the pumps didn't care, but the starter solenoid etc. didn't like the reversed polarity. Fixed the batteries and nothing was damaged.
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Thanks everyone for your help/advice. I got it back to the shop. One of the cables was missing insulation and was arcing on the inside frame. Got it running (running better than before), but now the gauges are a little iffy. Doesn't seem to be charging and the oil pressure gauge says 0-. It's got pressure, just for some reason the gauge says less than zero. Any ideas?
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- Location
- Pepperell, Massachusetts
Looks like the alternator is not charging the batteries (needle in the red zone). Check fuse FU1 in the fuse holder behind the gauge panel.
As for the oil pressure gauge it may be the sender is bad, bad wire from sender to the gauge, bad gauge, bad ground connection to the gauge.
The sensor voltage at the "S" terminal on the gauge should be about 4 volts DC when running.
As for the oil pressure gauge it may be the sender is bad, bad wire from sender to the gauge, bad gauge, bad ground connection to the gauge.
The sensor voltage at the "S" terminal on the gauge should be about 4 volts DC when running.
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I am sure the experts will chime in with the technical details but I am thinking basics here. With all the thrashing to find the source of the problem go back and make sure the oil pressure gauge did not just get disconnected at the sender or the wiring up to the gauge. The charging may be a victim of the reverse polarity.
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And there they are already!!
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Will check FU1......
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- Mico, Texas
The FU1 fuse is solid white...how do I know if it's good or not? Also, when I turn switch to on, the gen gauge actually goes down a little.
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Time to MacGyver a fuse tester.
Push the emergency off button IN.
Remove the top wire from the Emergency Off switch. Don't let it touch anything.
Put S1 in the Prime/Run position.
Pull the Emergency Off Button OUT.
Hold the wire against one end of the fuse.
Touch the other end of the fuse to the top terminal of the Emergency Off Button.
If the fuel pump runs, the fuse is good. If the fuel pump doesn't run the fuse is bad.
Like this...
Push the emergency off button IN.
Remove the top wire from the Emergency Off switch. Don't let it touch anything.
Put S1 in the Prime/Run position.
Pull the Emergency Off Button OUT.
Hold the wire against one end of the fuse.
Touch the other end of the fuse to the top terminal of the Emergency Off Button.
If the fuel pump runs, the fuse is good. If the fuel pump doesn't run the fuse is bad.
Like this...
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Or use a multimeter?
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Fuse is burnt out. THANKS KLOPPK!!! Lol...can't find a Bussman 30amp 125V ceramic fuse anywhere!!!!!
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Multimeter or just replace it with a new fuse.
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- MA
All for the low, low price of $25! https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/F03A125V30A?qs=TNh9aA0PEuKq0dy0fzwSmA==
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And a whopping 1 in stockAll for the low, low price of $25! https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/F03A125V30A?qs=TNh9aA0PEuKq0dy0fzwSmA==