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I'm an idiot!!! - Fermont MEP-802A 5kW

loosegravel

Just a retired mechanic who's having fun!
504
892
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Location
Enumclaw, Washington
It’s been my experience that the gauge on these units is what usually fails, probably from excessive vibration. If you can verify that the wiring to the gauge is correct, and that you’re getting power to the gauge when S1 is turned on, AND the wire from the gauge to the sender has continuity then do the open circuit test and the ground test.
 

loosegravel

Just a retired mechanic who's having fun!
504
892
93
Location
Enumclaw, Washington
I just took a look at the schematics. MT7 is the oil pressure gauge sending unit. M7 is the actual gauge. The single wire number that you're looking for at the gauge is 130B, at the sending unit its 130A. There's a terminal board or two in between the gauge and the sender.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
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Burgkunstadt, Germany
Where is that sending unit for the oil pressure gauge located? The diagram on the inside of the door does not really show anything, and there's no photos on the TM.

4X4, Please stop posting the same question in more than one thread.
 

4x4nutz

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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43
Location
Mico, Texas
I have some black versions of it in stock new, you would just need to solder new wires to it (it has tabs, just like the OEM). If you were interested.
Heck yeah! I am Texas Humvee on facebook. I can contact you through FB, or call you if you like.
The original fuse holder is about $100!
I'd suggest finding one rated for similar voltage and current capacity. They are much cheaper. Be sure what you pick can handle the current.
It's a 30amp.
 

4x4nutz

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Mico, Texas
No problem. Can't even ship the parts to you, for what Mouser lists them for. Hopefully you are operational soon.
Everything checks out on the new 803A 10K. The fuel pump works when I try and start it, but it won't turn over (and gauges are not working), so I am hoping this fixes it for me. Just the top of the fuse holder and the fuse were missing, but I'll just replace the entire thing.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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West greenwich/RI
Sorry to say, but replacing that fuse holder isn't going to fix your issue. That fuse controls ONLY the alternator.
Sounds like you have power at the control panel, otherwise nothing would be clicking when you turn the switch.
Have you already verified that the motor spins from the fan or pulley bolt?
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
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Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Try opening the -24 TM, and look at the troubleshooting diagram. You are creating a problem here. Working on two gen sets in the same thread. No one, not even you, can keep track of what is what now.
 

4x4nutz

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
283
118
43
Location
Mico, Texas
Try opening the -24 TM, and look at the troubleshooting diagram. You are creating a problem here. Working on two gen sets in the same thread. No one, not even you, can keep track of what is what now.
Lol...802A has been repaired and is in good working order since two months ago. The 803a runs great, just have to jump start it every time. I read the TM, work on the 803s until I'm frustrated, and take a day off, and then go at it again. I'm old, half blind, and somehow managed to carry a bad case of ADD with me from when I was a kid, so learning anything is time consuming.
 
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