In-Line Coolant Heater Location?

[Ronmar]

Here is a listing from NAPA for the 3500018 Black heater. 50 mm hole. My block is 44mm much smaller.heater 3500018

Here is a listing for the 3500015 Block Heater 44mm in size.3500015 Listing

that is not the p/n we are talking about. Take the 18 at the end and turn it into an 81... and the 81 is for a 44mm hole... 3500015 is the 1000w version, 81 is the 1500w version.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TWR3500081?keywordInput=3500081

those are also pretty expensive, you can find them for $70-80 by googling 3500081...

 

[JD4044M]

Boy I see where I screwed up! Got 2 numbers turned around. Well at least I now have a 1,000 Watt coming this time that is 44mm in Diameter.

 

[Mario]

A lot of these "Home Automation" vendors call them "Appliance Modules". They are good for a coffeemaker, a crockpot or other higher amp draw kitchen appliances. X-10 sells a 15 amp and a 20 amp module. They have the SNAP sound of a 1950's light switch when they power on and off...

I have some of X-10 hardware that I purchased twenty years ago that are still doing their job today. Very durable and extremely reliable for sure... A bit more costly than $8, but everything that will carry more amperage generally costs more. You can even get a home controller and set a particular device to power up or down (multiple times if you want to) any module that you have at ANY TIME.

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You're the first person I've heard of that still uses X-10 -- that's awesome.
I've moved on from the analog X-10 comms to digital. Glad to hear that it's still working great for you.
That clicking noise you hear is a relay -- that's what you want. The other type is normally a fast switching transistor also knows as triac.
You do NOT want dimming on motors, inductive loads, electronics, or in our case heaters.
Simple On/Off is what's called for here. If it doesn't click when you turn it on & off, chances are it's electronically controlled, and that's not what we want.

 

[Mario]

Not for this heater. P over IE 1500w(P), divided by 120v(E) = 12.5A(I) of current draw. You need something rated for 15A and an appropriately sized power cable...

Absolutely agree. The guys were talking about 500W loads, or about 4.2A.

 

[JD4044M]

Least when I drained the 10 gallons of Antifreeze it was a clear deep blue. Never saw blue before this. Saw red, pink, green and yellow but not blue? I will test it tomorrow but is sure looks new to me nothing floating or dirty looking? Only kind I can find that is blue is; ZEREX™ G-48™ coolant meets or exceeds the following industry and engine specifications: ASTM D3306, ASTM D4985, Cummins 90T8-4, Detroit Diesel 7SE298, Federal Specification A-A-870A, GM 1825M, GM 1899M, SAE J1034, J814, J1941, and TMC of ATA RP-302B

 

[Mullaney]

You're the first person I've heard of that still uses X-10 -- that's awesome.
I've moved on from the analog X-10 comms to digital. Glad to hear that it's still working great for you.
That clicking noise you hear is a relay -- that's what you want. The other type is normally a fast switching transistor also knows as triac.
You do NOT want dimming on motors, inductive loads, electronics, or in our case heaters.
Simple On/Off is what's called for here. If it doesn't click when you turn it on & off, chances are it's electronically controlled, and that's not what we want.

It is strange how it works... The X-10 system does have some age on it, but it still does the job really well. I have it tied to my alarm system too so if it goes off it trips a big honkin relay that turns on floods and spots on all corners of the house. Burned a bunch of brain cells figuring out how to do that a lot of years ago.

I am one of those who doesn't fix a problem if it is still functioning. Once it is broken or unreliable, I try to research and get the newest generation. I do have some of the newer automation at work because I could run it with PoE on Cat6 cable. We have tons of that in place and every time we pull a new "run" it is always in groups of 4. Four boxes of cable feed as easily as one and that way there are always spares

.

 

[Mullaney]

Least when I drained the 10 gallons of Antifreeze it was a clear deep blue. Never saw blue before this. Saw red, pink, green and yellow but not blue? I will test it tomorrow but is sure looks new to me nothing floating or dirty looking? Only kind I can find that is blue is; ZEREX™ G-48™ coolant meets or exceeds the following industry and engine specifications: ASTM D3306, ASTM D4985, Cummins 90T8-4, Detroit Diesel 7SE298, Federal Specification A-A-870A, GM 1825M, GM 1899M, SAE J1034, J814, J1941, and TMC of ATA RP-302B

Can't remember the brand, but I have seen blue coolant. I imagine you are good - but with the tester - you can know for sure.

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[JD4044M]

Got my Block Heater today and put it in. Easy job brought the plug out to the front bumper. No leaks and ran the engine till warm for a while to get any air out. Smoked a bunch at first being 27 degrees but not like a freight train. Fluid good to -42 below zero so good for our zone of -12 to -15 below. I will test it (1,000watt) tomorrow in the morning after 2 hours on.

 

[JD4044M]

Test went great using the 1,000 watt block heater #3500015 for only 2 hours. Last night was low 20's to 31 degrees when I plugged it in this morning. It fired right off NO SMOKE at all, like it was 70 outside!! I used a IR Heat Tempiture Gun 6-10 inches above the block heater was 70+ in the casting 45 degrees off to the sides after 1 hour. Started to read the temps before "on" it read 31 degrees block surface. Very happy so far. Tomorrow same temps all night I will try just one hour "on" then start it and see. Warmed up even faster this way making the heater put out heat sooner.

 

[Mullaney]

Test went great using the 1,000 watt block heater #3500015 for only 2 hours. Last night was low 20's to 31 degrees when I plugged it in this morning. It fired right off NO SMOKE at all, like it was 70 outside!! I used a IR Heat Tempiture Gun 6-10 inches above the block heater was 70+ in the casting 45 degrees off to the sides after 1 hour. Started to read the temps before "on" it read 31 degrees block surface. Very happy so far. Tomorrow same temps all night I will try just one hour "on" then start it and see. Warmed up even faster this way making the heater put out heat sooner.

Yeah! That sounds more like what I remember... We would snug the road tractors up to the bay door if they stayed outside to cut down on the wind - and with the 110v plug snaked out under the door - it was like cranking on a normal spring day. No clunk and sputter, just fired up on all 6 or 8 and then turn on the defroster.

Happy to hear that your test went well.

.

 

[JD4044M]

Last test ran the 1,000 watt block heater for only 1 hour and it started OK sorta but smoked some and missed a little. Not even like when I did not use it! It is 23 degrees and been that way all night. 1 1/2 hours to 2 hours would be better and I know 2 hours is more then enough for a clean nice smoke free cold weather start.

 

[Mullaney]

Last test ran the 1,000 watt block heater for only 1 hour and it started OK sorta but smoked some and missed a little. Not even like when I did not use it! It is 23 degrees and been that way all night. 1 1/2 hours to 2 hours would be better and I know 2 hours is more then enough for a clean nice smoke free cold weather start.

My truck must be a "Sunshine State Truck" because here - this morning it was about 45 when I went out to fire it off. No block heater and it rattled for a good 5 minutes before it smoothed out. It had a bit of a surge too, but all of that went away when it warmed up...

 

[frank8003]

Last test ran the 1,000 watt block heater for only 1 hour and it started OK sorta but smoked some and missed a little. Not even like when I did not use it! It is 23 degrees and been that way all night. 1 1/2 hours to 2 hours would be better and I know 2 hours is more then enough for a clean nice smoke free cold weather start.

Cold soaked at 23 °F is Army weather which I will never ever, ever do again,
I am still cold now from that last time.
We happy for You and your engine that now will not be hurt.

 

[Ronmar]

My truck must be a "Sunshine State Truck" because here - this morning it was about 45 when I went out to fire it off. No block heater and it rattled for a good 5 minutes before it smoothed out. It had a bit of a surge too, but all of that went away when it warmed up...

You might have a little fuel leak/loss of prime... a little air just makes a cold start worse

 

[Mullaney]

You might have a little fuel leak/loss of prime... a little air just makes a cold start worse

Thanks! Could be loss of prime because it did sit for a while... I need to look at the fuel line situation too I guess. Almost wonder if a rag to restrict the fuel tank fill hole a bit and an air nozzle would make them easier to spot if I have a weak spot in a rubber line...

 

[Awesomeness]

Thanks! Could be loss of prime because it did sit for a while... I need to look at the fuel line situation too I guess. Almost wonder if a rag to restrict the fuel tank fill hole a bit and an air nozzle would make them easier to spot if I have a weak spot in a rubber line...

If you need them, I just added the line dimensions to my parts spreadsheet, because I just had mine made and replaced them.

 

[Ronmar]

Thanks! Could be loss of prime because it did sit for a while... I need to look at the fuel line situation too I guess. Almost wonder if a rag to restrict the fuel tank fill hole a bit and an air nozzle would make them easier to spot if I have a weak spot in a rubber line...

I had an annoying slow leak. I pumped the lines full and capped one end and put a regulator on the other and pressurized it to 5PSI And let it set. My primary bowl was the only place I found fuel weeping. It was also looking pretty sad so I replaced the 2 piece unit with a one piece Baldwin BF1222 separator with drain. No leaks since...

 

[Mullaney]

I had an annoying slow leak. I pumped the lines full and capped one end and put a regulator on the other and pressurized it to 5PSI And let it set. My primary bowl was the only place I found fuel weeping. It was also looking pretty sad so I replaced the 2 piece unit with a one piece Baldwin BF1222 separator with drain. No leaks since...

Good info! Thanks for confirming that a little pressure (very little) is a good plan. It is getting cold here tonight but that is part of the wonder of living in North Carolina. Wait a few days and it will be t-shirt weather again My shop is the great outdoors and when it is cold and wet - I will admit - I don't go play truck.

 

[JD4044M]

My truck has impressed me on how fast it starts! I mean I bump the starter and it takes off. No need to turn over more then once it seems to start. Nothing else I own starts that easy and not complaining either!! I believe the 2400 miles on the speedometer no wear in to many places. Had a brake issue easy fix just a valve. Brakes looked brand new like the 23 year old tires I changed out. I think they just did maintenance regularly cause all fluids, belts, filters ect look new on the engine too. Even the front and rear ends were clean and transmission. Greased it but it also was done the Army must have been bored and practiced on it for something to do? It had 6 Army Bibles and Camo Prayer Cloths. A never used Troop/Driver Alert. Accident and inspection sheets in a plastic holder all this in clean boxes behind the seats.