In-tank fuel pump wiring

[Banshee365]

Hey all! I've had a dead fuel pump that I think I bought from white owl. I accidentally left the power switch on which slowly killed the batteries. I think the pump slowly dying with the batteries burned it up. That's neither here nor there really. It's dead. I've ordered a new on from Olympic Controls to get the truck up and running again.

I wanted to see if someone could help me out with the wiring under the cap of their stock pump. I'm fairly sure the pump I pad top dollar for is Korean. There are no markings on the pump body at all and everything is soldered under the cap rather than screwed together. There is also a resistor or something between the fuse block and power connector. The man at Olympic said there shouldn't be a resistor there but I just wanted to make sure before I install the new pump. I'm planning to just unsolder the old stuff and find a screw that fits the fuse block and fasten it the way it should be.

Thanks so much for anyone that can run out and take a peek at there's for me!

-Kelly

 

[doghead]

You need a fuse(the correct fuse), not a screw.

The correct fuse has been discussed hundreds of times on the site.

You need a slow blow, 3-5 amp fuse.

Some are white and look like a resistor.

Use an ohm meter to test yours.

 

[doghead]

How many times have you done this? http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...uel-pumps-these-days&highlight=fuel+pump+fuse

If this is the same situation/failure, then you should continue your original thread(not start another one).

 

[Banshee365]

doghead, you must have posted before I was able to get a photo posted or you would have realized I'm not speaking of placing a screw in the block instead of a fuse... The fuse is even in the picture. The connections on the fuse block have threads to accept eyelets on the wires instead of soldering. This pump, however, had the wires soldered to the fuse block instead of eyelets screwed down.

I apologize about the new thread, I'm not as active on SS as I used to be and forgot about even posting another thread related to this issue. The issue I'm having right now isn't so much whether the pump is bad or not, because it is. it's whether or not I should have the resistor in place with the new pump.

 

[doghead]

I've never seen a resistor added there before. Maybe someone used a 12 volt pump and added that resistor, in the past?

I would remove it.

 

[Banshee365]

Thanks doghead, I was told the same by the guy at Olympic but to me he didn't sound 100% sure. So I just wanted to see if someone could run out, pull the cover and see if there was a resistor on their's.

To make this 'extra' thread a little more worth while I'll post a few pics of the install and results when the pump arrives.

BTW, Olympic Controls was so great and helpful to deal with. The put together a kit just for M35 owners which includes gaskets, hardware, and the pump. The kit was $225 which I think is a great price considering what many ask for them other places. And this is STRAIGHT from the source. I called Memphis and they wanted like $475 or something insane for it.

 

[doghead]

I've had about 15 of them off of trucks and never seen a resistor.

I have seen civilian trucks from the 60's-70's with similar 12 volt pumps used.

 

[frank8003]

in tank fuel pump wiring 06132014

I had to drill and tap for bigger size screw, then finally had to solder in a proper fuse, are we having fun yet.
The fuse block is built as if it fails then soldier "C" goes and gets another one thru NSN to fix it. NOT.

Resister!, The fuse I found in there was the proverbial penny in the fuse box.

Pictured was mine, intermittent power to pump, mung, corrosion and nasty stuff. The problems resolved one at a time. Still fun.

 

[Banshee365]

Woah that's nasty man!

 

[Banshee365]

Well, the pump is in the tank and the truck is running like a champ now. This Olympic pump is the ONLY way to go in my honest opinion. They were very helpful in making this kit available for us civy M35 guy's. The contents of the kit is shown in one of the photos.

The wiring from the old pump had to be unsoldered from the fuse block and the solder cleaned out from the threads. I went up to Tractor Supply and found the tiny metric screws that fit the fuse block. I made a wire to connect the plug to the fuse block. Instead of crimping the small connectors on the end's of the short wire I soldered them on, it makes it a lot neater I think when you can do it. I removed the resistor in the original pump per Olympic and straight wired everything. Everything is screwed together in there so it can all be disassembled easily without the need of a soldering iron anymore.

I'm very happy with how the kit from Olympic worked out and I don't feel there is any other option than using the OEM in-tank pump. The guy at Olympic said the military is going back to the the style of pump the deuce had for the ability to pump fuel contaminated with dirt, sand, etc and keep on going.

Let me know if anyone has any questions with the replacement, I'm very happy with it.

 

[Woodsplinter]

Banshee, I've never seen a resistor like that in a deuce fuel tank- strange.

Many of us have been buying in-tank fuel pumps off a popular auction site for $50.00. Several threads about them. They are direct replacements and fit perfectly. I put mine on 2 years ago and it is running fine and quiet as a mouse. The gasket is only $4.00.

 

[rustystud]

I too had a good experience with "Olympic" . They will go the extra mile to help you out ! Plus you cannot beat factory for ease of install ! After all it is the correct part !