Injection pump help

[Drock]

So I've read several old threads about injection pumps and now I'm lost. Someone posted a list of part numbers that listed different numbers for different years of CUCV? Mine is an 1986 M1028, and I've add a Banks turbo. I haven't checked the numbers on mine, but as per the list it should be (DB-2829-4520 or DB-2829-4521). Also sense I've added a turbo is there a better one I should look for?

 

[Barrman]

Here is a good article about what all the different IP numbers mean:

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/archive/index.php/t-6775.html

That basically talks about the mechanical pump people think will make their 6.5 run like a brand new electronic Cummins. Even though it won't.

Here are two different listings by a pair of companies of DB2 numbers and what they say the applications are:

http://www.chathamfuel.com/generic.asp?pg=appl_gm&ti=Applications General Motors 6.2/6.5

http://jhdiesel.com/general-motors/

Several years ago Kenny, Recovery 4x4, posted a similar list on this site.

My suggestion is don't drive yourself bonkers chasing pump numbers. If the first set is a 2829, then it is for a 6.2 while a 2831 is for a 6.5. Everything else seemed to change at random depending on year, mood of Stanadyne or revision of parts books.

You didn't say why you were looking for this. If trying to add more power, then just a new IP won't really make much difference if what you have now is in good shape. Injectors, pre cups and a long list of little things add up to small incremental increases. None will be as dramatic as the turbo you already added. Plus you will need to beef up the engine fasteners to handle the power, bigger engine oil cooler and maybe engine cooling system.

This help?

 

[Drock]

Thanks for the Very helpful response! My (current & original) injection pump has an intermittent leak from the throttle shaft. This is my work truck, and my only transportation. So in the name of down time, I need to just buy a replacement pump rather then have mine rebuilt so I can be back on the road ASAP. I didn't realize there were so many variations in part numbers, and in one or more of the posts I read there was mention of using a "better" pump if your running a turbo...... Also not to go off in another direction but at the same time I'm replacing this pump, I'm also replacing the heads, gasket, and doing studs

 

[Recovry4x4]

Most of the good injection houses can build any 2829 pump into whatever list number pump specs are. Having a core pump to send out later is a good thing too. No experience here but I'm told rebuilt pumps degrade if stocked too long.

 

[Drock]

Also if anyone has a line on one for a good price I'd be grateful. I found one on Ebay for $720.00. Seems a little steep?

 

[Barrman]

Yes, I have been told that by Stanadyne people as well. They have a shelf life like a loaf of bread. A fresh rebuild is better. A 4911 that is wrapped in plastic sitting on a shelf waiting to sell for $50,000 the last 8 years is basically worthless as a runner. It will need rebuilding.

Performance wise, a new pump in my experience with nothing else changed is a world of difference all by itself. If your throttle shaft seals are leaking, the pump is probably worn some internally as well. Find your local Stanadyne repair guy. Go visit or at least call and chat. I have found two kinds. Gearheads and time clockers. If you find a gear head. He will know exactly what to do with your pump to give you the best power you can with your set up. If you find a time clocker, keep looking.

 

[Barrman]

Is that $720 a new pump with no exchange? Even then, it is kind of high. My local guy wants $500 to rebuild one I bring him. So do all the other Stanadyne places within 200 miles of me.

 

[richingalveston]

http://badgerdiesel.com/store/shop.aspx

get a core and it is $400, no core $525

I have one for my 6.2 sitting on shelf for 6 months now. It has not been installed or run yet since I put the 6.2 stuff aside to work on my 6.5.

I will send it to you for $350 plus shipping and you send me yours as core when you get it swapped out. It will be a while before I mess with the 6.2 again so I might as well get your core rebuilt when I need it.

pm me if you are interested.
Rich

 

[glaser06]

Yes, I have been told that by Stanadyne people as well. They have a shelf life like a loaf of bread. A fresh rebuild is better. A 4911 that is wrapped in plastic sitting on a shelf waiting to sell for $50,000 the last 8 years is basically worthless as a runner. It will need rebuilding.

Well ****, I just paid for a rebuild that had been sitting in a shop for a couple years off eBay. Think it's worth installing and seeing if I'm lucky?

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

 

[Drock]

http://badgerdiesel.com/store/shop.aspx

get a core and it is $400, no core $525

I have one for my 6.2 sitting on shelf for 6 months now. It has not been installed or run yet since I put the 6.2 stuff aside to work on my 6.5.

I will send it to you for $350 plus shipping and you send me yours as core when you get it swapped out. It will be a while before I mess with the 6.2 again so I might as well get your core rebuilt when I need it.

pm me if you are interested.
Rich

Whats the part number on yours?

 

[richingalveston]

I will check this weekend. I am out of town at this time.

 

[Barrman]

Badger Diesel is nice to work with in my experience.

The Stanadyne guy in Bryan is a gear head. He drives a 6.2 truck daily and was adamant the last time we talked that 5-8 years is all an IP is good for. Sitting or running. Of course he makes his living rebuilding them so of course he will say that.

I have a few IP's that I know sat for a year or two before I started running them daily. No issues. My oldest running IP though I can tell is getting tired. Low power, a hair longer to start and an odd feel every so often. I have had it 6 years and it looks like it has been on the engine since 1984. Install the pump and see how it does.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Diesel Performance in Memphis does really good rebuilds. Takes about a week and can be done faster. I think they have some to buy to not exactly sure at the moment

 

[albersondh]

You can change out throttle shaft O-rings yourself without needing a recalibration. Especially easy on older pumps, like those found in a 6.2, because no adjustable guide stud. Remove kick down stuff from the throttle shaft, pull the cap, remove the guide stud, rotate mini/max block out of the way, slide the shaft out, replace O-rings. Good time to look for a groove wearing into the stud from rubbing the metering valve retaining wire. If the groove gets too deep you will get a sticky spot in the throttle travel. A little emery cloth cleans this right up. Other than main shaft seals, you can change out most or all the other seals without messing up the calibration. You will know when a main shaft seal is gone because the weep hole on the bottom of the pump close to where it mounts to the timing cover will be leaking. Leaks from the housing will rob you of performance because the fuel advance system works by balancing housing pump pressure against spring tension. Leaks allow housing pump pressure to drop, so your timing will be off vs whatever it was calibrated for. In the most extreme cases the motor will "hunt" at idle, because the housing pressure is so far off the advance servo spring will start to bounce, and then your swinging back and forth from retard to advance.

All the seals in the IP have an SLC (shelf life code) assigned against their respective NSN's. The NSN for IP should carry the SLC assigned to its shortest SLC down-part. This is based on vendor data provided during the provisioning and initial cataloging of the repairable material. Curious what SLC the various stock-listed IP's have assigned....

 

[scottladdy]

Badger Diesel is nice to work with in my experience.

Two rebuilt IP's and two sets of rebuilt injectors later and a very fair price. He sends you a rebuilt to your specs and you send your core back in a specified period of time and you get the core credit back.

Only issue I had was with the clamp free hose he sells and then ONLY on the metal return lines at the front of the engine. It would appear that this tubing is slightly wider than the injector nipples and the hose splits after a period of time at this junction.