Let me say 1st, I'm not a mechanic. Things like this take me alot longer. I was going to swap valve covers, because the old ones are ugly but they aren't leaking and I needed the truck running so that didn't get done. I know the IP was bad because I had to clean out the glass bead return twice in the last week and the idle was getting rougher and rougher. I took the the old IP out whole, it looked like a big spider, it turned easily, you could say sloppily and inside the housing where it bolts up were those pieces I found around the glass bead, they were everywhere and much bigger. Removal was all straight forward, just alot of screws, bolts and clips, but I had to disconnect the fuel hoses so I could bend the fuel lines back so the old IP could slide back out of the housing whole after it was unbolted. I also removed the injectors, because I have had this rough idle for the last 2 years and about 15-20K miles and I didn't want to chance that remaining. I just brought a M1031 home from GL and the engine I think was run without oil. It was cannibalized bad, but it was a Tead rebuild in '93 and the pump and injectors looked good. The pump had a tag on it of 3/92. I thought it was a good chance to take. I took that out in pieces and re-assembled it to where it was like the old IP and pipes. Removing the rusty wire clips from the return lines on the old injectors was very time consuming, because they were in such poor condition. I re-used the clips and hoses from the replacement IP. That was a time consuming affair also. Napa does sell a kit for all this but I only bought the copper gaskets, (he actually gave them to me) I didn't ask what the kit costs but all new stuff would have been faster and easier to assemble. The owner of the napa loaned me his personal snap-on 30mm injector socket, there is a special socket for the injectors. That was very nice of him. Putting in the assembled IP was easy, but I didn't realize there are 5 holes on the plate or gear that the injector bolts up to. I put the pin in the wrong hole. I would advise pulling the rubber grommet out of the fill tube opening so you can see in there better. The pin should go in the oblong hole, if you do as I did the 3rd bolt won't screw in and you can't see and figure out why. I went back to my old pump and opposite of the pin on the old pump is a round mark. That told me there must be another hole. I had to pry out the pump far enough to get the pin free of the wrong hole and then turn the engine to line up the right one. I could see my mistake easy with the rubber out. The problem I had was I had all the clips in and bolted up, before I bolted the IP up, it might be wise to bolt that IP in 1st at least if this is your 1st one. I screwed up the IP gasket prying it back out.
My next problem was bolting up the throttle bracket I did it after the intake manifold was back on and there is little room in there and to make matters worse the top hole in the IP was stripped out. It took me awhile to figure this out. Tried the bolt in the old IP, fit fine, then I remembered all the locktite when I took it out of the M1031. This is another problem of using used parts. Probably that bolt got loose and the movement from the throttle action wallowed out the hole. I used a spare IP bolt, which is just a shade longer with some JB weld. I think it will hold. Bled the air out and the truck started up and idled perfect. I advanced the timing about 1/16 but I may put it back to the line. I wonder what it costs and the benefits in power and mileage to having the timing professionally set? I know I would have this done if I was installing a turbo.
I would add that plan on it taking twice as long as you figured if its your 1st time. The only other tool I had to buy was a 15mm deep socket for some of the intake bolts. Hope my experience helps someone.
