Injection Pump Rebuild Help

[TheMountainCalls]

Ive known for a while that my injector pump on my m1008 is dying and needs help. New pumps go for around $500 which I dont have, but I've also had no luck finding a rebuild kit for them.
Do you guys know where I might find one, or at the very least what parts I should track down to make one?
Thanks for the help

 

[cpf240]

It requires special tools to calibrate them correctly. I'd suggest a PM to Cucvrus, as he has a place he likes to send them to to be rebuilt.

 

[Jozseph]

Ive known for a while that my injector pump on my m1008 is dying and needs help. New pumps go for around $500 which I dont have, but I've also had no luck finding a rebuild kit for them.
Do you guys know where I might find one, or at the very least what parts I should track down to make one?
Thanks for the help

Get a copy of the

"Stanadyne DB2 Operation and Instruction Manual 99009"

See;

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ne-DB2-Operation-and-Instruction-Manual-99009

You will require access to a test bench after rebuilding the unit.

The above manual has part list and procedure.

Regards

Joseph

 

[richingalveston]

Memphis diesel or badger diesel are the two shops here that have the most recommendations. I went with badger. The service was great. I believe the pump price alone was 425. with 8 new injectors and new fuel return line with shipping 600.

Memphis is cheaper but not sure if they include shipping. It takes expensive tools to rebuild one. save your coin and get it rebuilt by a reputable place. Finding local shops is tough. Hard to beat the online service.

Rich

 

[cucvrus]

It requires special tools to calibrate them correctly. I'd suggest a PM to Cucvrus, as he has a place he likes to send them to to be rebuilt.

Thank you for that vote of confidence. I will stick my opinion of injection pump re-builders up on my shelf. I get to many good results from my source. I don't want anyone to have CUCV's that run as good as mine. Do your reviews. See if CUCVSRUS CUCV's run good. The crickets are still singing on the last guy that put an injection pump on. Meanwhile back in the Tennessee back woods. The Coker canoe rental company is running the heck out of there CUCV from my pump source. Last I knew he was spinning donuts in a field and fording creeks looking for Burt Reynolds and his boating party. Have a great day. Diesel Care Memphis Tennessee. $300. from your door and back. Have at it. Enjoy the holiday and think of it's true meaning.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Your spot on with yer (spits chaw juice at cat) wordin' cucvrus.

I run the T total snot out of my truck and I had the pump done at diesel care in Memphis. The truck runs great, pulls great, sounds great, just a good running truck. Does my truck have some weird quirks yes but they are not pump related.

My buddy Jake just got his truck running (with me teaching the ways of a injection pump job). He had the pump rebuilt at the same place and had no trouble and his blazer is running like a gang banger being chased by a police dog on steroids.
Runs great, cranks right up, hauls down the road and has plenty of power.


So yes I am firm believer in diesel care in Memphis. They answered all my questions, and did a great job on the pumps.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[TheMountainCalls]

Thanks for the help.
How does it usually take for you guys to get your pumps rebuilt?

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Just to be clear, is this the place in question?

http://www.dcpcart.com/OScart/

 

[cucvrus]

You can access the pump rebuild service thru E bay. Just type 6.2 injection pump in the search and the pump comes up $275. It has a full explanation and description. Do it if you want. That is your decision. I have had no problems. But sometimes it's not the pump that is giving you issues. There is a lot of other hings to service. Start from the fuel tank and work your way up. If you look at it as work you are doomed from the start. I do this as a hobby so I enjoy it. Like sitting on the sofa watching ball games. I would rather be out messing with vehicles then sitting in front of a TV. Do it everyday. Good Luck. I can help you thru as I am sure others can. It is an easy task. Ask CUCVLOVER.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

It takes me right about 3 hours to pull the intake, CDR, oil fill, lines, injection pump ect. I can teach a complete newbie, (I mean green as fresh cut base ball field type newbie) to do the job in 4. It takes about 7 to reinstall if you want to paint the intake, clean the oil cap, CDR, paint the air cleaner housing, and put the pump on wrong the first time. So if you do want to clean up and paint the intake, clean CDR, ect just do it either after you pull the pump or just pick a afternoon when you are waiting on the pump to get back and do it. That will make the job of installation take about 5-6hrs. I don't pull the pump as a spider like some do but I can see how it could make the job easier. I just use a 16 mm crows foot and a rachet to get the bottom bolts and I tighten them up right the first time.
Just don't install the intake until you have the truck running that way if you do have a leaky line it's easy to get to.
Also take your time, go easy, listen to some motivational tunes, have fun, don't get mad and dont start flipping out. The more you fight the truck the more it will fight you.

So basically the short version is it can take about 8-10 hrs to swap out an injection pump and that is counting a little time for bleeding the air from the system. But it's not that much time when you do it over a couple days. Saturday of one weekend and then Saturday of the next. It's that easy.

If you have any problems either me or cucvrus (the master of all things cucv) can point you in the right direction.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[TheMountainCalls]

Yeah, I got this truck so I could learn and get better at working with vehicles. So all of this is pretty new, but fun for me.
The reason I think it is the IP is whenever I try to start the truck after its been sitting overnight it will usually take three tries and sometimes it will catch and idle but then die. But after I get started it will always start again on the first turn. The previous owner thought there might be a vacuum leak in the fuel system and people here thought it probably was the IP.
I got this truck in April but due to college I haven't really been able to do much to it.

Thanks for all the help

 

[cpf240]

Replace the short section of fuel line at the return check valve on the top of the IP with a clear piece of fuel line. Then you can see if you are getting air in the lines. If so, closely examine the fuel filter to see if the fuel pressure sensor on the back of the filter base is leaking. Also check for fuel around the throttle shaft on the IP. These are common leak points that would be letting air into the system, and generally fit your description of hard starting after sitting a few days, which could indicate you are losing prime. Also, there could be a pinhole leak in a fuel line that allows air in, but no fuel leaks out. Replace any suspect fuel lines.

 

[TheMountainCalls]

Ok Ill definitely do that, probably save me some money.
In other news I found a literal rats nest under my intake manifold. It even had a mummified rat in it.
Needless to say I was surprised.

Edit: Sorry about the sidetrack I was just really surprised about finding a rat in my engine

 

[royalflush55]

Self made RAT Rod! Rats have been bad here for about a year! They love CUCV's too!

 

[Jack Lope]

Do research before deciding where/if to get injection pump rebuilt.

 

[TheMountainCalls]

I've been waffling on the pump rebuild
Right now I'm going to test the fuel system like cpf240 suggested and then go from there
And Royal had I not just named it the day before I'd have definetly gone with "rat rod/truck" or something like that

 

[Chaski]

Like everyone else said, it the pump isn't working right you are better off having an injection shop repair the pump.

If the pump is just leaking from the advance plunger or the throttle shaft seal you might want to try replacing seals yourself. It is still a pain to do, and you need to make up some special tools, like one to put the advance cam back on the shaft clocked exactly how it was before you removed it, and a good way to hold the pump if you need to remove the advance piston to replace that seal. Also need to keep your workspace and the pump operating room clean, and even after all that you may still screw up and need to hand it over to an injection shop with a wad of cash.

Just a word or warning about injection pump shops. All of them sometimes let a product out the door that isn't good, but you have to be careful to find a shop that is using quality parts. I had a shop in Klamath Falls Oregon do a Stanadyne DB2 for me, they were not an authorized Stanadyne repair center. They did awesome work on the pump body itself, they bored and sleeved the advance piston bore, the work was clean and it worked well for almost a year. After about 8 months it was leaking. I took a close look at it and I think the rebuild kit they sourced must have been made out of self destructing imported imitation rubber. The gasket that sealed the timing cover was crumbling where it was exposed to air, and was so swollen where diesel touched it that it softer than a marshmallow. I took apart the pump and the red-orange main shaft seal was swollen to about 150% of the size it should have been, it would just fall off the shaft. Long story short, the labor was good, the parts were total garbage. I ended up having that pump gone through again by an authorized Stanadyne shop in Redding CA and it has been A-OK for over two years now.

If you want to try seal replacement yourself one option is an Interstate-McBee M-24370, it is an aftermarket kit but seems to be OK and not expensive.

Also the shut off solenoid is a Stanadyne 26214

 

[jmenende]

Howdy. I just took out my pump to get it rebuilt and the bushing that on the throttle linkage came apart. Anyone know where to get another. Here is the pic.