Injection Pump Rebuild Question

[Wire Fox]

Hey all,

I was working on tearing down a spare injection pump I bought to rebuild (or at least, reseal) in order to make the replacement at-HMMWV go as quickly as possible. I've gone well along using the 6.5 Engine TM; however, I've finally gotten stuck at removing the head assembly from the casing. I have the entire advance assembly removed, all three head bolts removed, the metering assemblies removed, and the end cap assembly removed. Despite this all in a holding fixture on a vice, I can't get the head to come out of the pump. There's less than a millimeter of twisting wiggle to the head and seemingly no pull, so it seems like some pin or the like is still holding it in place and I don't want to use too much force to risk damaging that thing.

I know this is a difficult thing to pinpoint without the pump right in front of you, but if anybody has experience working on DB2 pumps and knows of either something the TM skips OR a common error, I'd appreciate your input to keep me moving forward!

 

[Wire Fox]

I couldn't go more than a week without figuring something out. Because of the flanged end, I was originally trying to tap it outward evenly, but just couldn't get enough force to distribute. My room mate dug through his tool box and found a narrow pipe wrench that must have been from the 60s. it was just narrow enough to fit behind the flange (and large enough for the jaws to open wide enough to get around the head of the pump). In one solid tap onto the wrench, it sent the head right out of the housing. Of course, this was after tapping it inward and outward for an hour and pushing diesel fuel into the mating surfaces to help it slide easier.

Since then, I've replaced all the seals in the pump. Had to buy better snap ring pliers, since the cheap auto store pliers didn't have enough reach to access the snap ring on the drive shaft. Also had a grand ol' time removing the head from the pump a second time because it was binding and I wasn't sure why. When I put it back together the second time, no more binding. I think it was something to do with the governing weight assembly, as i saw that it had stuck on the first assembly, despite having freed it up before completely assembling. The upside to the second disassembly is I now feel like an expert on these, because it only took about 3 minutes to tear it all down the second time and about 5 to put it back together with confidence that it's all OK.

If anyone has a cheap source for the electronics in the top covers, please let me know. I have the insulators and seals, but the connectors on this pump are damaged and the cold advance solenoid has a crack in its body. I can't seem to find one in 24V for less than $95. I'd really like to pay about $40-50 for one, plus have no idea where I can find the electrical connectors and rubber shells. Failing this, I'll just swap the cover from my old IP onto this one, but I really want to have the second pump as a fully functional backup.