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- Papalote, TX
It should have a drain, maybe it is plugged?
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Injection pump won't move when turning crank.
- Thread starter Mattguy
- Start date
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I’ve done this procedure 3 times in my life, the oil pan does not use a gasket, the bolts won’t come off if you use red loctite and the fact it’s captive once the timing gear cover is reinstalled.
clean all the old RTV off the oil pan and clean with acetone, leave absolutely no trace of silicone, apply liberal amounts of new quality RTV, use anerobic sealant on the timing gear cover to block sealing surface.
Make darn sure the gear was reinstalled without changing the timing mark.
Did this job last month on a 2003 H1 the previous mechanic decided that sealants were not needed for the previous work and the transmission decided to divorce itself from the engine block and the timing gear cover leaking coolan.
clean all the old RTV off the oil pan and clean with acetone, leave absolutely no trace of silicone, apply liberal amounts of new quality RTV, use anerobic sealant on the timing gear cover to block sealing surface.
Make darn sure the gear was reinstalled without changing the timing mark.
Did this job last month on a 2003 H1 the previous mechanic decided that sealants were not needed for the previous work and the transmission decided to divorce itself from the engine block and the timing gear cover leaking coolan.
- 753
- 1,332
- 93
- Location
- Highland, Indiana
Just like new again. Lined up perfect. 
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- Las Vegas Nevada
Squirt some oil on those gears. It doesn’t look like they have ever seen oil. Looks like you are doing a great job. Do you know if your engine is good? I was concerned/confused about the wax blocking the coolant passages. I have a non runner on the way and I hope I can sort it out and I hope my problems are not as involved as yours. Good job and thanks for the updates and pics. Inside of your motor looks like art, shame to cover it up.
- 7,018
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- Papalote, TX
Damn nice job! how deep was the wax and have you seen it anywhere else???
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T-stat would have to be the biggest choking point. I’m rooting for total success but I still don’t understand the wax… that water pump passage is huge to be blocked like that.
- 753
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- Highland, Indiana
No wax anywhere else other than water pump and the passages in the front. As soon as I cleared all the wax in the water pump holes bright green coolant came out. I used 170° water off my garage spigot and it was weird the wax melted and dissipated with the water.
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- Highland, Indiana
Thank you for all the support. I'll continuing uploading pictures as I go and make sure I get a video of the first start. Cross my fingers. I'm still looking for a diagram of the back of the IP and how the lines connect to it I didn't keep track.
- 7,018
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- Papalote, TX
Great, that is rather odd though, I would probably fire it up on a week 4-6/1 mixture and drain it after it gets fully warmed up a few times, as warm as I am comfortable with at drain time.
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I would use water and some kind of flush. Water gets hotter quicker and it’s free.
- 753
- 1,332
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- Highland, Indiana
It's getting flushed as soon as I can let it run for a while at operating temps!
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This is a really great place to be for support, ideas and to learn. I couldn’t own/ fix what I got without the knowledgeable members here. Hahaha I’m thank you in advance for help with my non runner and my anxiety that is building every day. I hope this has a happy ending and worse case you bought your truck right…
- 753
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- Highland, Indiana
How many miles on yours? You have link for auction?
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My non runner that’s on the way? Or my perfect m1123?
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this is my non runner
www.govplanet.com
My non runner has 83 miles since restored to “A” condition. It was reset in 2014
2002 AM General HMMWV 4 Door Hard Top w/Truck Body
6.5 L Diesel Engine, Turbo, Automatic Transmission, 4x4, 4 Door, Hard Top, 37x12.50R16.5 Tires
www.govplanet.com
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- 7,018
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- Location
- Papalote, TX
I always use some mixture of "coolant" it helps lube the ceramic seal on the water pump, and helps protect the aluminum parts, I only use "flushes" if absolutely necessary, you really have to be able to removed ALL traces of the flush or you risk long term damage so if not really needed I would avoid "flushes".
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How many times have you tried to flush wax out of the system? Probably a radiator flush would have lubricants in it. Smart people here have zero answers for this issue.
- 753
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- Highland, Indiana
Some reason can't see it, weird.this is my non runner
My non runner has 83 miles since restored to “A” condition. It was reset in 20142002 AM General HMMWV 4 Door Hard Top w/Truck Body
6.5 L Diesel Engine, Turbo, Automatic Transmission, 4x4, 4 Door, Hard Top, 37x12.50R16.5 Tires
I'm done for the night. I'm beat lol
blutow
Well-known member
- 357
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- Austin, TX
The wax is a lubricant, almost certainly just a coolant additive that has come out of suspension. I have no idea why it would concentrate in that spot, but it’s liquid as soon as the engine starts heating, so wouldn’t hurt anything. As long as enough was dug out to allow some water flow, should be all good.
Action
Well-known member
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- East Tennessee
It looks like the wax built up or settled this way, because the hole was blocked. What are the odds that the wrong water pump and / or backing plate were installed on this motor? The n/a and turbo plates have holes in different spots.
No one else has thought of this?
We saw one with the wrong fan already...