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Injector Pump advice

dc_cucv

Active member
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115
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Location
Woodbridge, VA
So after sitting for over 7 years, I finally got my 85 M1009 running.
She came to me without either of the alternators, dead as can be batteries and with a bad starter.
Got the starter replaced and she cranked.
Drained the fuel tank, changed oil and filter and got her turned over and running.

I am noticing some fuel delivery issues - when i accelerate and then just let off the gas, she dies immediately. But starts right back up with no effort.
I took a look around the injector pump area, and am noticing some "sweating" in the area under the intake manifold. I know the seals on it are probably definitely shot and needs to be rebuilt.

I know i can save a few bucks if i have pump rebuilt, but will have to wait for it. Does anyone know of/can recommend any place I can send mine into for service?

Or would it just be better to order a new one and use mine as a core? Can anyone recommend where to order one?

I read somewhere in a post (cant remember which one) where a member stated he used a slightly different model and that's giving him some better fuel economy on his CUCV - is that possible? If so, what model pump would maximize MPG without sacrificing performance (ha)?

Also, if I am replacing the imjector pump, would it be good measure to get in new/rebuilt injectors in there too?

I got this truck 2 months ago and do not know any history of it other than it sat since 2013/2014. It's in pretty good shape and sounds pretty good, so i want to say it has 100,135 since the odometer shows 00135. Not much rust and motor sounds good when it's running. Obviously needs all new hoses, belts ,etc.
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
So after sitting for over 7 years, I finally got my 85 M1009 running.
She came to me without either of the alternators, dead as can be batteries and with a bad starter.
Got the starter replaced and she cranked.
Drained the fuel tank, changed oil and filter and got her turned over and running.

I am noticing some fuel delivery issues - when i accelerate and then just let off the gas, she dies immediately. But starts right back up with no effort.
I took a look around the injector pump area, and am noticing some "sweating" in the area under the intake manifold. I know the seals on it are probably definitely shot and needs to be rebuilt.

I know i can save a few bucks if i have pump rebuilt, but will have to wait for it. Does anyone know of/can recommend any place I can send mine into for service?

Or would it just be better to order a new one and use mine as a core? Can anyone recommend where to order one?

I read somewhere in a post (cant remember which one) where a member stated he used a slightly different model and that's giving him some better fuel economy on his CUCV - is that possible? If so, what model pump would maximize MPG without sacrificing performance (ha)?

Also, if I am replacing the imjector pump, would it be good measure to get in new/rebuilt injectors in there too?

I got this truck 2 months ago and do not know any history of it other than it sat since 2013/2014. It's in pretty good shape and sounds pretty good, so i want to say it has 100,135 since the odometer shows 00135. Not much rust and motor sounds good when it's running. Obviously needs all new hoses, belts ,etc.
DCP Memphis is highly recommended on this site. Cucvrus has used them quite a bit, and he does refer to them.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
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113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Like anything else you buy everyone has an opinion and most that sound off are negative. I have used https://dieselcare.store/ for many diesel vehicles and equipment. I may have had 1 incident that I had issues with. The vehicle was not running when it came to me. And after I discovered the issue it was easy to get it going. The timing gear was 1 tooth off and I did not know that from the get go. The owner tried changing the water pump on his own and it leaked so he had it towed to me and I worked on it and stopped the leak. I did not know he had the entire timing cover off and the gear off the injection pump. I didn't ask. Who would have thought. But the new rebuilt injection pump was not the issue. It took me a while to figure that one out. Sometimes things are better left to someone that knows what they are doing. And I admit I struggle with things that are incorrectly assembled and messed with by others. Most times I just take it apart completely and start from scratch. Take Care and Good Luck. It is a simple task.
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,117
1,715
113
Location
York Pa
So after sitting for over 7 years, I finally got my 85 M1009 running.
She came to me without either of the alternators, dead as can be batteries and with a bad starter.
Got the starter replaced and she cranked.
Drained the fuel tank, changed oil and filter and got her turned over and running.

I am noticing some fuel delivery issues - when i accelerate and then just let off the gas, she dies immediately. But starts right back up with no effort.
I took a look around the injector pump area, and am noticing some "sweating" in the area under the intake manifold. I know the seals on it are probably definitely shot and needs to be rebuilt.

I know i can save a few bucks if i have pump rebuilt, but will have to wait for it. Does anyone know of/can recommend any place I can send mine into for service?

Or would it just be better to order a new one and use mine as a core? Can anyone recommend where to order one?

I read somewhere in a post (cant remember which one) where a member stated he used a slightly different model and that's giving him some better fuel economy on his CUCV - is that possible? If so, what model pump would maximize MPG without sacrificing performance (ha)?

Also, if I am replacing the imjector pump, would it be good measure to get in new/rebuilt injectors in there too?

I got this truck 2 months ago and do not know any history of it other than it sat since 2013/2014. It's in pretty good shape and sounds pretty good, so i want to say it has 100,135 since the odometer shows 00135. Not much rust and motor sounds good when it's running. Obviously needs all new hoses, belts ,etc.
I got a question about this since mine I got running a few weeks ago after replacing my fuel tank it did the same thing...the throttle stuck some too...I don't think mine was run much since 2011 going by the painted diff codes and the brand new tire that was flat with that date code on it....after putting fresh fuel in the new tank it ran way better but still was off some so I started dumping fuel cleaners like the usual seafoam and such and beating the heck out of it...loading it up on hills and trying to break the tires loose and such...get the injection system moving to clean it out...I'm on the third tank now and it is running great...the sweat thing is it fuel or condensation? Doing a pump isn't a big deal but if it really just needs run it might be worth trying that and see if you find other things going on and make a list from there...you know there will be more stuff to do!! That's how these trucks go. Just my experience with one of mine in the last few weeks.
 

dc_cucv

Active member
108
115
43
Location
Woodbridge, VA
I got a question about this since mine I got running a few weeks ago after replacing my fuel tank it did the same thing...the throttle stuck some too...I don't think mine was run much since 2011 going by the painted diff codes and the brand new tire that was flat with that date code on it....after putting fresh fuel in the new tank it ran way better but still was off some so I started dumping fuel cleaners like the usual seafoam and such and beating the heck out of it...loading it up on hills and trying to break the tires loose and such...get the injection system moving to clean it out...I'm on the third tank now and it is running great...the sweat thing is it fuel or condensation? Doing a pump isn't a big deal but if it really just needs run it might be worth trying that and see if you find other things going on and make a list from there...you know there will be more stuff to do!! That's how these trucks go. Just my experience with one of mine in the last few weeks.
There is definitely a fuel leak somewhere near the the pump. I'm getting drop of diesel dripping down off the converter housing right behind the oil filter.

I had what appeared to be a birds nest under the air cleaner/intake manifold. When i got all the hay and grass out of there, i shined a flashlight and looked under the intake manifold and can see that it's getting wet in there (and smells like fuel).

I've been starting it and letting it run in the driveway and driving it in my neighborhood (but havent gotten over 25mph).
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I think the throttle shaft seals are leaking but from what I am hearing you say the injection pump is sure to need some repairs. I would recommend getting it rebuilt. It makes a huge difference in the drivability and reliability. Many guys dance around taking the step and in the end it is inevitable. While there replace the lift pump. You would be surprised at the crud you will find inside an old lift pump. Do it right the first time and you can drive on in confidence and enjoy your CUCV. Or do it half fast and curse it every time. Good L:uck. Be Safe.
 

dc_cucv

Active member
108
115
43
Location
Woodbridge, VA
Definitely leaking near the throttle cable area. I can see drops drip down when running, but cant see exactly where they are coming from (without removing the intake manifold).
That little cylinder with what i thought was the idle adjustment screw is bent a little and does not move freely in and out when pressed in. I put some penetrating oil in there to free it up, but will likely just replace it - but i don't know what it's called HA.
 

Attachments

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,434
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
That piece you pointed out is the fast idle solenoid. It is activated by a sensor on the right rear head. That sensor also advances the injection pump timing during cold start and cold fast idle time. Your glow plugs should cycle on and off during the cold start to help assist with emission smoke on a cold engine. Changing the injection pump is an easy task. Have no fear. You can do it with common sense and some basic hand tolls. Nothing special required. You can do it.
 

dc_cucv

Active member
108
115
43
Location
Woodbridge, VA
That piece you pointed out is the fast idle solenoid. It is activated by a sensor on the right rear head. That sensor also advances the injection pump timing during cold start and cold fast idle time. Your glow plugs should cycle on and off during the cold start to help assist with emission smoke on a cold engine. Changing the injection pump is an easy task. Have no fear. You can do it with common sense and some basic hand tolls. Nothing special required. You can do it.

I think i will remove the pump and send it out to get rebuilt. Going to try to get it done in the next week or two.
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
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93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
I see that number for the fast idle solenoid is GM 14066255. And can't find it anywhere - probably not a big surprise to anyone.

Does anyone have any experience with these aftermarket solenoids from eBay? Says they're made in the US.

A little pricey, but the seller must know we don't have many other options....


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=tec+22&_osacat=0
It says it is an original G.M. part. I haven't seen any aftermarket parts for that one. If you need it, buy it. They are hard to find. Crazy money. I don't think the fast idle solenoid is the source of your fuel leak problem.
 

WWRD99

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,117
1,715
113
Location
York Pa
There is definitely a fuel leak somewhere near the the pump. I'm getting drop of diesel dripping down off the converter housing right behind the oil filter.

I had what appeared to be a birds nest under the air cleaner/intake manifold. When i got all the hay and grass out of there, i shined a flashlight and looked under the intake manifold and can see that it's getting wet in there (and smells like fuel).

I've been starting it and letting it run in the driveway and driving it in my neighborhood (but havent gotten over 25mph).
Yeah that's not sweating...looks like the shaft seal is leaking...in for a rebuild and lift pump with new hoses and such...it'll be a happy runner then!
 

dc_cucv

Active member
108
115
43
Location
Woodbridge, VA
It says it is an original G.M. part. I haven't seen any aftermarket parts for that one. If you need it, buy it. They are hard to find. Crazy money. I don't think the fast idle solenoid is the source of your fuel leak problem.
They are NOT original parts. Only original ones i can find are used and probably the same condition as mine so wouldnt make much sense to replace bad with bad.

This is what the description on one of those on ebay says. They are all from the same seller.



"INTERCHANGES PERFECTLY WITH GM14066255 ALL HARDWARE SUPPLIED AND ANY INSTRUCTIONS NEEDED IF YOUR NOT A DIY
THEY ARE CUSTOM ADJUSTED ON OUR BENCH BEFORE SHIPMENT AND EASY TO FACILITATE
Showing attributes of ours to factory ours has 4 x1 foot print base stronger
NEW THESE ARE MANUFACTURED AT OUR PLANT IN NY IN STEEL MOUNTING BODY CUSTOM FIT TO DB2 STANADYNE UNIT INJECTION PUMP SEE THE PICTURE OF ARE ITEM MOUNTED AND READY TO SHIP CAN MAKE ANY SOLENOID OF THIS TYPE JUST ASK
use correct spring assemble item with care
Gm,chevy 6.5L 6.2L diesewith 12 v solenoid 6.5L 6.2L diesel Fuel Injection Idle Speed Control Actuator THEN BENCH TESTED AND PACKED
WE ALSO HAVE HUMVEE 24 VOLT RETROFIT KIT SOLENOIDS & BRACKET AVAILABLE NICE ITEMS CLEAN AND PROPER"
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
They are NOT original parts. Only original ones i can find are used and probably the same condition as mine so wouldnt make much sense to replace bad with bad.

This is what the description on one of those on ebay says. They are all from the same seller.



"INTERCHANGES PERFECTLY WITH GM14066255 ALL HARDWARE SUPPLIED AND ANY INSTRUCTIONS NEEDED IF YOUR NOT A DIY
THEY ARE CUSTOM ADJUSTED ON OUR BENCH BEFORE SHIPMENT AND EASY TO FACILITATE
Showing attributes of ours to factory ours has 4 x1 foot print base stronger
NEW THESE ARE MANUFACTURED AT OUR PLANT IN NY IN STEEL MOUNTING BODY CUSTOM FIT TO DB2 STANADYNE UNIT INJECTION PUMP SEE THE PICTURE OF ARE ITEM MOUNTED AND READY TO SHIP CAN MAKE ANY SOLENOID OF THIS TYPE JUST ASK
use correct spring assemble item with care
Gm,chevy 6.5L 6.2L diesewith 12 v solenoid 6.5L 6.2L diesel Fuel Injection Idle Speed Control Actuator THEN BENCH TESTED AND PACKED
WE ALSO HAVE HUMVEE 24 VOLT RETROFIT KIT SOLENOIDS & BRACKET AVAILABLE NICE ITEMS CLEAN AND PROPER"
They might be standard motors parts, which are generally good replacement parts. I would take a chance with one if that is all that is available.
 

dc_cucv

Active member
108
115
43
Location
Woodbridge, VA
That piece you pointed out is the fast idle solenoid. It is activated by a sensor on the right rear head. That sensor also advances the injection pump timing during cold start and cold fast idle time. Your glow plugs should cycle on and off during the cold start to help assist with emission smoke on a cold engine. Changing the injection pump is an easy task. Have no fear. You can do it with common sense and some basic hand tolls. Nothing special required. You can do it.
by the way, what's the sensor on the right rear head that you said controls the fast idle solenoid? might as well be ready to replace that as well...
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
by the way, what's the sensor on the right rear head that you said controls the fast idle solenoid? might as well be ready to replace that as well...
Standard Motors #TS-621 Amazon $116.00 Buy one and you'll have it when yours goes out. Shop around for a better deal.
 
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