gimpyrobb
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Didn't try just turning on the power and letting the in-tank pump do it's thing? Just razzing ya, sounds like you are on the right track.
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Injector rebuild?
- Thread starter hughscpa
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buddy_holly
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So the Deuce is in the shop right now. They're asking about $700 to rebuild the injection pump. After I got over the initial shock of that, I figured I'd ask the question. Should I have them rebuild it? Should I look for a re-manufactured/rebuilt one online? Those don't seem to be much different in price. Also, how hard is it to rebuild one of these? A diesel shop with all the testing equipment and know-how should be capable, correct?
hughscpa
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Buddy, I lucked into my rebuilt engines because these are owned by the local health dept. and we can purchase federal surplus. They had 4 engines and I bought two of them. I think the other two will be coming up for public auction soon.
Floridianson
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[QUOTE=Lex
So if it's just fuel, and those two 'O' rings need to be swapped.
If you change out the head there is three O rings that will get anew
So if it's just fuel, and those two 'O' rings need to be swapped.
If you change out the head there is three O rings that will get anew
Did they tell you where in the pump the leak was coming from? Why it was leaking (bad gaskets and seals, shot mechanical seals, broken/out-of-spec components)? I'd be dubious of a place that can't/won't tell me exactly what is wrong. This could be a case of rebuilding the entire house because one room has bad sheetrock.
I would be hesitant to jump to a full rebuild without more info. Of course, I'm not billing you by the hour to fix it either
Undoubtedly a full rebuild will fix your problem, but you may be able to fix it a lot cheaper/easier depending on the issue.
I would be hesitant to jump to a full rebuild without more info. Of course, I'm not billing you by the hour to fix it either
Undoubtedly a full rebuild will fix your problem, but you may be able to fix it a lot cheaper/easier depending on the issue.
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I have my hydraulic head off at the moment to correct this same problem. I can see the two larger o rings but is the their one in the fuel shutoff? And along with the two #'s gimp posted what is the third o ring part #? Should these be swapped with viton ones instead?
The 3rd o-ring is on the lever that goes into the side of the HH through the IP (you had to remove it to get the HH out.) Here's the size:
Actuator O-Ring: .426 x .070 = -013 or 013
Viton will work, as will Buna N Nitrile
Just went and looked at the lever. I see the o ring that is all the way against the base of the shaft. Now I can do all three. Thank you very much. Hopefully not hijacking this since it is the same problem the OP had.