injector return lines tied in knots? and used motor oil fuel

[mc355ss]

My M1008 6.2 has a knots tied in the injector rubber lines on each side of the motor where they run to the front. Any idea why that is? I got it from the gov about 4 mos ago. Also what are your thoughts on running filtered used motor oil in this machine? Thanks all

 

[4x4 Forever]

Welcome to SS and OD madness mc355ss, there is no KNOWN cure!

Have not a clue as to the knots.

Below, using the 'search' key at the top of the page is what I found for using WMO in a CUCV. These are just several of the many posts found, I placed "WMO in CUCV" in the search area and hit enter.



http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/35618-wmo-used-motor-oil-6-2-m1009.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/68097-1009-wmo.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/alternative-fuels/53895-cucv-question-atf-veg-oil-motor-oil.html

 

[Warthog]

Welcome to SteelSoldiers.

Make sure you visit the Cucv Wiki - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite (CUCV Wiki) that is at the top of the page on the CUCV Forum.

All of the CUCV Technical Manuals are listed and many other helpful bits of information.

Make sure you download the repair manuals. You can get then for free. A couple of our members have posted them on their websites.

Also the wiring diagrams are in the appendix of the -20 and -34 manuals.
JATONKAM35s HOME ON THE WEB

Also checkout the http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/20600-faq-thread-cucvs.html stickey. It is where we try to post helpful tips and tricks.

Almost every question you will have has been asked and answered many times. The advanced search will become your best friend. Please don't hesitate to ask something that you can't find.

Read the TM 9-2320-289-10 Operators Manual to find out how a stock system should work. It is simular to the Operators Manual for Civilian vehicles. It tells you where all the lighs, switches, etc are located and what they do.

Three of the most important tools you can buy are:

Voltmeter and know how to use it - ~$10 and up
12v Battery Charger - ~$50 for a decent one
Battery Load Tester - ~$30 for an okay one at Harbor Freight

Now to your questions:

Are the rubber hoses the small ones that go between the injectors? If so those are the return lines for excess fuel. Are the knots in one place or are there many? At one point there is suppost to be a cap at the end of the run. Is the knot there? If so they ran out of caps and tied a knot.

If you start running waste oil, start saving your money (do it anyway) to have the Injector Pumpp rebuilt. They parts are 25+ years old and the seals and the weight ring are getting old. They WILL fail at some point in time.


Warthog

 

[mc355ss]

Yes its the small daisy chained lines that go to each injector. There is one knot on each side at the front of the cyl heads, in front of the first injectors on each side, just 1 knot on each side. Thanks
Chad

 

[mc355ss]

ALSO What would cause the glow plugs not to come on after it sits for an hour or so? In the winter time they would but now its warm outside and the temp sender is not kicking on after it runs for a bit and its hard to start.. I unplugged that temp switch and the plugs came on and she started right up. plugged it right back in because the solenoid stayed on. any ideas? Think i might put in a pushbutton. thanks!

 

[doghead]

Please add your State to your location information. This is a site requirement.

 

[southdave]

Do you st have the metal return line that run across the front of motor? I am thinking that may be the reasons for the Knots in the rubber? assumong you are in ohio? as for the leak and and the GP wait light ch the senor on the drive side head.. I found bad one on motor I removed a coupled weeks ago..

 

[mc355ss]

Yes the knots are before that metal return line. The sensor may be bad, The plugs do kick on when I first start the truck but restarts are hard because they don't come on. THanks

 

[southdave]

fuel problem? I think your line lock the the pump,. I can't recall the right term, but here what I think is going on..
Your I.P and lift pump are rated for higher delivery than your motor can usally burn.. so it will start and Idel maybe even drive around at low speed okay, for awhile... eventually you will have a surplus of fuel at full preasure where and how it bleed off is to be determind.. normally it flows in the return system no ill effects..
What I am guess is that once you shutoff the engine it draining half the lines dry and the other half is at full preasue and bleeds off till the inject closes... reinstall the rubber lines, it about 60 cent fix or less with 3/16 rubber fuel lines..
Sounds like you got a hill billy way of turning up a pump is all you got