Installed pryometer

[jasonjc]

I installed my new pryometer today useing the plug in the front of the manifold. Whent on a test run and it neve got above 200. Even when pulling some long steap hills at 60mph.Yea 60mph up hill in a M109. I think the fule has to be truned way up. The FDC is bypassed could that be all it is. Hills the my M35A2 losses 10mph the M109 can gain 10mph going up.

Back to temps. When I got home I use an infred hand held themoter.(engine still running) At the prob at the front of the manifold about 220-230. A few inches back 330-350. Right above the turbo 440-450.The turbo 530-550. Just past the turbo 250-300.

Back to plan "B" pull turbo and drill and tap manifold.

 

[FreightTrain]

what plug?You sure you stuck it in the exhaust manifold and not the intake?

 

[Westech]

200* is a idling engine.. think you got something messed up there

 

[jasonjc]

Its anajustable typ and I'm afraid I may have tighten it too much and broke it

 

[houdel]

There is a 1/4" pipe plug at each end of the exhaust manifold centered on the endwall pointing transversely. I'm guessing that is the plug jasonjc used. From its location, he is measuring only the exhaust from the #1 cylinder, depending on the probe it may not even be extending far enough into the exhaust gas flow, and being on the end like that is probably seeing some cooling effect on the gas stream from the cast iron manifold absorbing heat from the gas stream and radiating it out. The gas stream will be much hotter in the center of the manifold where three cylinders have combined into one stream, the exhaust stream is flowing much faster and the cooling effect of the manifold is much less due to the higher flow volume and velocity. Drilling and tapping the manifold just before the turbo is a much better solution.

200F is too cool even for an idling engine. On starting my pryo gets up to about 300F in a minute or two.

 

[FreightTrain]

well,if you think you broke it get it out of there ASAP.cause if that probe goes walkabout your gonna go walkabout when the airstuffer scatters.

 

[jasonjc]

OK just got done fixin it. Its an Isspro R3607TR nice gauge its eletronic and 12volt so I got a volt reduceing resistro from isspro. It reduced the volt all right, all the way down to 11volt.Too low for the gauge to work. Hooked it up to a jump pack and it works fine.
The fule is a littel higher than I would like. It gets up to 1150 on a steep hill perrty easy.Easy driving 600-900 seemed the norm. It drope to 500 at a stop.

 

[houdel]

I have the same gauge, also with the dropping resistor (actually its a zener diode). It works OK in warm weather, but when its cold out the gauge gives flaky readings until the diode warms up. I'm thinking of adding a 24V-12V converter for a number of reasons, and feeding the Pyro off that.

1150F isn't too bad. "Conventional Wisdom" here and other places put 1250F as the temp limit; but there have been several postings in other threads on Pyros claiming that 1250F is conservative. Me, I'll stick with 1250F.

 

[jasonjc]

It was only giving me 11volt and it would not work as soon as hooked up the jump pack to it work great. I'm thinking of the 24-12 converter too. Maybe 1150 isn't too bad, I may leave it for now. But need to fine a better power sorce.

 

[m-35tom]

the proper resistor is all you need, just measure the current draw at the voltage you want and do the math, easy. works great for items that always draw the same amps.

 

[jasonjc]

Please inlighten me on the math?????

 

[jimk]

Or you could run the gauge off one bat.JimK

 

[Recovry4x4]

I've not installed my pyro yet but I was under the impression that it doesn't require juice except for the light

 

[spicergear]

Or you could run the gauge off one bat.JimK

My thoughts too. Why jimmy around with another electrical part when you can just pull off of one battery? PLEASE don't tell me that one guage is going to cause some type of uneven charge or something...

I have the 12V fuel solenoid pulled off of one battery for my CAT, works fine...even in cold weather.

On a side note; I have a 12V starter being spun on 24V on that CAT too. I talked with an old starter/generator salt and he told me that thing would still last a long, long time being fed the 24V. It sounds like an air starter and the engine is starter before the button is fully depressed. The engine actually slows down to idle as you can hear it 'catch' as diesels do when they drop down to idle then maintain right their.

 

[Goatwerks]

You are correct, you can pull from 1 battery. Many Mog and Pinz owners do this for all kinds of 12v items. Just make sure you have a shut off switch on the circuit to avoid unwanted drain when the key is off, or the master cut off switch (if equiped) is off.
Some guys even rotate battery positions every 6 months to insure equal wear and tear

 

[jasonjc]

The Isspro gauge R3607TR is an eletrionic typ gauge thus has a little brain box that needs 12volt. I got 24volt bulb for it from Isspro. It is said that this gauge will respond faster than the other typs.????And some one else on here said it was a good one to get.And sense I know nothing about them, I just got what was in a post on here. But I do like it now that it is working. It does respond fast to changes in temp.

 

[jimk]

an eletrionic typ gauge thus has a little brain box that

and

under the impression that it doesn't require juice except for the light

The older Isspro gauges do not need an outside power source(exc light). The newer ones (w/four digits) have an 12V amplifier box. I don't think Isspro sells the older design anymore. I found a used 0-1200*F (#607?) Isspro on on e-bay. It has no amp.box. The only compalint is the face trim does not match the newer boost gauge's.

Very light, or a rare heavy load, will not do significant harm. JimK

 

[jimk]

Please inlighten me on the math?????

I think Tom means:

V/R=I (amps)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohms_law

 

[KaiserM109]

Can you tell me what is the current requirements are for the Isspro gauge R3607TR? The spec's sheet should tell you. I didn't find any information on Isspro's web site.

If the voltage on the R3607TR can be regulated with a zener diode, it must be well below the 500 ma range. That technique is usually used only in low current applications.

For circuits needing less than 1 amp there is a simple circuit using an LM7812 voltage regulator. I will build one of these circuits as soon as I get a few other things done, but here is an application note for someone to start from:
http://www.ortodoxism.ro/datasheets/nationalsemiconductor/LM78XX.pdf

You can pretty much ignore pages 2 - 10. Use the simplest application example on page 11 with an LM7812 regulator. I would suggest the TO-3 package (Digikey part # 497-1006-ND) for loads up to 1.5 amp or the TO-220 package (Digikey part # LM340T-12-ND) for loads up to ½ amp. Either package should be put on some type of heat sink. Get some heat sink paste from Radio Shack or the URL below. With the TO-3 package, the case is the only ground connection; with the TO-220 package there is also a solderable leg. With both packages the case should be connected to the ground of the vehicle.

Automotive circuits typically have a lot of spikes in them. The R3607TR probably has power supply filtering already, but adding a large capicator in the range of 1000 mf 50 volt in parallel to the 0.1 mf cap wouldn’t hurt.

A good mail order source of parts is http://www.digikey.com/ . You might be able to find these parts at Radio Shack or some local hobby store.

This circuit would also work on other electronic equipment designed to run off 12 auto systems, as long as the current requirement is low. For radio receivers, CD players, etc you might get the job done by using the "High Current Regulator" example.

If there is interest in these circuits, I will try to take some time to build a couple up. I am going to want some myself about next spring when I put my deuce on the road.

 

[cranetruck]

I'm very much in favor of using 24 v to 12 v regulators, but for this light a load, simply run a wire from your grounded battery (with proper fuse/switching means of course).